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Routes in United States of America for selected grade

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Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
5.12a Chainsaw Massacre

FA: Jeff Moll, 1994

Sport 18m, 7 Red River Gorge
5.12a Hippocrite
Sport 14m, 4 Red River Gorge
5.12a Fear and Loathing III Sport 18m, 9 Red Rock
5.12a Check Your Grip

FA: Neal Strickland, 1998

Sport 24m, 7 Red River Gorge
V4 Iron Man Boulder 5m Buttermilks
YDS_ALT:5.12 B - C Tsunami

Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway.

Sport 18m, 9 Mount Lemmon
5.12a Heinous Cling (1st Anchor)

If you're going all the way, check out the full Heinous Cling. For most of us, the fun will stop at the first anchor.

Begin up a seam and pockets with an optional gear placement (BD 0.4 or 0.5) in the horizontal crack. Continue up pockets and good holds. Manage your pump in preparation for more difficulties prior to reaching the final bolt.

FA: Alan Watts, 1984

Sport 30m, 5 Smith Rock State Park
5.12a Dogleg

FA: Unknown

Sport 27m, 10 Red River Gorge
5.12a Liposuction
Sport 15m Austin
5.12a Burlier's Bane

FA: Roxanna Brock, 1995

Sport 18m, 6 Red River Gorge
V4 The Solarium

Harder now due to breaks on the topout holds.

Boulder 4m Tablelands
5.12a Yertle the Turtle
Sport 4 Austin
5.12a Coyne Crack
Trad Indian Creek Canyon
5.12a Wild, Yet Tasty

FA: Porter Jarrard & Jeff Moll, 1992

Sport 15m, 4 Red River Gorge
5.12a Social Outcast

Climbs up the intimidating overhanging arete at the left side of Bonsai. A seated rest halfway lets you prepare for the final haul through the crux.

Your redpoint can be significantly easier if someone hangs a long draw on bolt #6 before your attempt.

FA: Ted Hammond, 1989

Sport Rumney
5.12a Scar Tissue
Sport 14m, 5 Red River Gorge
5.12a Bettavul Pipeline

FA: Mark Johnson & Drew Cronan, 2006

Sport 17m, 5 Red River Gorge
5.12a Hakuna Matata

FA: Kellyn Gorder, 1996

Sport 26m, 9 Red River Gorge
5.12a 49
Sport 23m, 12 Maple Canyon
V4 Bum Boy Boulder Horse Pens 40
5.12a Steep Thrills
Sport 15m Red Rock
5.12a Twinkie

This is the most fun you could have almost upside down. this is a stellar line on bomber rock. Second to clean or back jump to the slab and rap off. Multiple climbers have gotten injured when cleaning by swinging out and hitting a large tree.

Sport 21m, 11 Red River Gorge
5.12a Primus Noctum

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1998

Sport 23m, 8 Red River Gorge
5.12a Sunny and Steep
Sport 15m Red Rock
5.12a Namaste

Easy moves but pumpy and long! What a line!! A 70m rope will bring you down to the ground.

Sport 38m, 14 Zion National Park
5.12a Watermelon Sugar
Sport 21m Maple Canyon
5.12a Naked Lunch

FA: Shadow Ayala & Sam Speed, 2012

Sport 24m, 8 Red River Gorge
5.12a Tunnel Vision

FFA: Jeff Jackson

Sport 4 Austin
V4 Dragon Lady Boulder 2m Little Rock City
5.12a Narcissus
Sport 6 Summersville Lake
5.12a Too Many Puppies

FA: orter Jarrard & Chris Snyder, 1992

Sport 18m Red River Gorge
5.12a/b Flesh For Lulu

FA: Jerry Handren, 1987

Sport 33m, 11 Rumney
V4 Neil's Lunge

FFA: Neil Pothier

Boulder 4m Lincoln Woods State Park
V4 Ketron Classic Boulder 4m Tablelands
5.12a Magnum Opus
Sport 30m, 10 Red River Gorge
5.12a/b Delicatessen

Much steepness and some difficulty on the left side of the most overhung part of the cave.

FA: Dru Mack & Dustin Stephens

Sport 26m, 9 Red River Gorge
5.12a Stay the Hand
Sport 15m Red River Gorge
5.12a Snozzberries

The obvious line up the centre of the wall. A classic route linking an awesome serious of features. Is 11d elsewhere.

FA: Kevin Quinn & Dan Beck, 2012

Sport 27m, 8 Red River Gorge
5.12a Lost Souls Sport 20m New River Gorge
5.12a Maneater
Sport 8m, 4 Red Rock
5.12a Cookie Monster
Sport 25m, 7 Yosemite National Park
5.12a Supafly

FA: Chris Martin, 2001

Sport 21m, 7 Red River Gorge
YDS_ALT:5.12- Anunnaki
Trad 15m Indian Creek Canyon
5.12a Pretzel Logic

FA: Paul Wonsavage, 1997

Sport Rumney
5.12a Teeanova Unknown American Fork Canyon
5.12a Second Coming
Sport 18m, 7 St. George
5.12a Mesquiter

Starts on a slight bulge. Multiple cruxes and rests. All bolts except the first 4 have perma draws.

Sport 33m, 15 Lime Kiln Canyon
5.12a/b Forbiddance
Sport 30m, 16 Maple Canyon
5.12a Gimme Back My Bullets
Sport 15m Red Rock
5.12a/b Jade

The uber-classic test-piece 5.12- at Reimer's, besides Lipo. 12a, or 12b? There will never be a consensus!

Sport Austin
5.12a Wildfire
Sport 15m, 5 Red River Gorge
5.12a Days Of Future Passed

FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 1996

Sport 21m, 8 Boulder
5.12a Separate Reality

An epic roof climb that has been soloed by many pros.

FA: Ron Kauk, 1978

Trad 15m Yosemite National Park
5.12a Fangoria
Sport 15m, 5 Austin
5.12a Firearms
Sport Rifle Mountain Park
5.12a Cool Ranch Flavor Extension Sport 27m, 10 Smith Rock State Park
5.12a Cardinal Sin
Sport Rifle Mountain Park
5.12a Swedish Fish

The far right route at the Chocolate Factory.

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2012

Sport 34m, 14 Red River Gorge
5.12a Cyclops Sport Red Wing
5.12a Tacit

FA: Porter Jarrard, 1997

Sport 15m, 5 Red River Gorge
5.12a Save the Heart to Eat Later
Sport 18m Red Rock
5.12a Kick Me In The Jimmie

FA: Jeff Moll, 1994

Sport 18m, 7 Red River Gorge
5.12a Reckless Abandon

Leftmost route, climb onto the ledge above the lake to a high first bolt and then straight up. Head left around the bulge at bolt 4/5 for easier climbing, staright up is considered 5.12c.

Sport 18m, 8 Summersville Lake
5.12a Break The Scene
Sport Red River Gorge
V4 Jones'n
Boulder Red Rock
YDS_ALT:5.12 WAY RAMBO

FA: Krister Jonsson

Trad 30m Indian Creek Canyon
5.12a Dr. Goodkind
Sport Maple Canyon
5.12a Grip Tease
Sport 21m Maple Canyon
5.12a Empire Of The Fenceless Sport Boulder
5.12a Animal Riots Activist
Sport 14m, 7 Boulder
V4 The Pork Chop

Stand start (V2/V3), climb the right arete until it is possible to use the left lip. Top out at the apex. Precarious and commiting. There are a couple of sit start options: with both hands on the arete adds little difficulty, starting with a sidepull undercling feature just left and moving to the arete is V4. A variation (V2) exits right into the small dihedral above the start.

Boulder 6m Red Rock
5.12a Sacbrood Virus

FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013

Sport 23m, 9 Red River Gorge
5.12a Katrina
Sport 20m, 5 Austin
5.12a Pockets of Resistance Sport 20m New River Gorge
5.12a Tic-tac-toe
Sport 18m Red River Gorge
5.12a Latin Lover

Another technical and balancy Dihedrals climb. A tricky thin traversing crux comes near the top by the last bolt, but the rest of the route isn't that easy to figure out either.

FA: Jean Marc Troussier, 1986

Sport 20m, 7 Smith Rock State Park
5.12a Dry Times
Sport Maple Canyon
5.12a Defenseless Betty
Sport Rifle Mountain Park
5.12a Ball Scratcher

FA: Jeff Moll, 1994

Sport 12m, 5 Red River Gorge
V4 Stem Gem
Boulder 5m Joshua Tree National Park
5.12a Push
Sport Meadow River
5.12a Cocaine rodeo Sport 32m Ten Sleep Canyon
5.12a Fossil Family

Shares first three bolts of 'Family Unit' then follows the crack that curves up and right.

Sport Rifle Mountain Park
V4 Art of the Vogi Boulder 2m Little Rock City
5.12a Unattended Consequences

Many people's first 12! And a decent warm up for the harder climbs as the crux is short, although powerful.

FA: EFR, T.England, GHu & SA, 2011

Sport 65m Mount Lemmon
YDS_ALT:5.12- Lavender Eye

FA: Chad Davis, 2002

Sport 18m, 8 Horseshoe Canyon Ranch
5.12a Freebase

A Smith classic with bomber, vertical stone and excellent, consistently engaging and committing climbing. After a mid-height technical crux this route turns to sweet reaches between incut crimps. The good climbing seems to go on forever!

Stick clip the first, a fall from here would be a catastrophic tumble down a rocky gully.

There is a bolt in the wall for the belayer to clip into - strongly recommended (a couple extra slings and carabiners will make this a bit easier)

FA: Dan Goodwin, 1987

Sport 25m, 7 Smith Rock State Park
5.12a Work Ethic Sport Red Wing
5.12a Little Teapot
Sport Red River Gorge
5.12a Shaggin' Wagon Sport Bethel Area Crags
YDS_ALT:5.12- Hank`s Bacon

Bouldery crux low to a rest, then a technical crux at 2/3 height.

Set: Jerry Daniels

Sport 15m, 8 Washington Pass
5.12a Banana Hammock

FA: Dario Ventura, 2011

Sport 29m, 11 Red River Gorge
5.12a KGB
Sport 18m Red Rock
5.12a/b Heavy Weather

The clean face right of the arete - super classic!

Sport 20m, 11 Shelf Road
5.12a Liquid Oxygen Unknown American Fork Canyon
5.12a Psycho Wrangler

FA: Kenny Parker, 2005

Sport New River Gorge
5.12a Forearm Follies
Sport 30m Red River Gorge
5.12a Things As They Are Now

FA: Chris Smith

Sport 12m, 3 Rumney
5.12a Rainy Day Woman Sport 25m North Bend
V4 Overlooked Boulder Pawtuckaway State Park

Showing 1 - 100 out of more than 10,000 routes.

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