Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.12a | ★★ Chainsaw Massacre
FA: Jeff Moll, 1994 | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Hippocrite
| 14m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Fear and Loathing III | 18m, 9 | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Check Your Grip
FA: Neal Strickland, 1998 | 24m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★★ Iron Man | 5m | Buttermilks | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12 B - C | ★★★ Tsunami
Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway. | 18m, 9 | Mount Lemmon | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Heinous Cling (1st Anchor)
If you're going all the way, check out the full Heinous Cling. For most of us, the fun will stop at the first anchor. Begin up a seam and pockets with an optional gear placement (BD 0.4 or 0.5) in the horizontal crack. Continue up pockets and good holds. Manage your pump in preparation for more difficulties prior to reaching the final bolt. FA: Alan Watts, 1984 | 30m, 5 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Dogleg
FA: Unknown | 27m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Liposuction
| 15m | Austin | ||
5.12a | ★★ Burlier's Bane
FA: Roxanna Brock, 1995 | 18m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★★ The Solarium
Harder now due to breaks on the topout holds. | 4m | Tablelands | ||
5.12a | ★★ Yertle the Turtle
| 4 | Austin | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Coyne Crack
| Indian Creek Canyon | |||
5.12a | ★★ Wild, Yet Tasty
FA: Porter Jarrard & Jeff Moll, 1992 | 15m, 4 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Social Outcast
Climbs up the intimidating overhanging arete at the left side of Bonsai. A seated rest halfway lets you prepare for the final haul through the crux. Your redpoint can be significantly easier if someone hangs a long draw on bolt #6 before your attempt. FA: Ted Hammond, 1989 | Rumney | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Scar Tissue
| 14m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Bettavul Pipeline
FA: Mark Johnson & Drew Cronan, 2006 | 17m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Hakuna Matata
FA: Kellyn Gorder, 1996 | 26m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ 49
| 23m, 12 | Maple Canyon | ||
V4 | ★★ Bum Boy | Horse Pens 40 | |||
5.12a | ★★ Steep Thrills
| 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Twinkie
This is the most fun you could have almost upside down. this is a stellar line on bomber rock. Second to clean or back jump to the slab and rap off. Multiple climbers have gotten injured when cleaning by swinging out and hitting a large tree. | 21m, 11 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Primus Noctum
FA: Porter Jarrard, 1998 | 23m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★ Sunny and Steep
| 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Namaste
Easy moves but pumpy and long! What a line!! A 70m rope will bring you down to the ground. | 38m, 14 | Zion National Park | ||
5.12a | ★★ Watermelon Sugar
| 21m | Maple Canyon | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Naked Lunch
FA: Shadow Ayala & Sam Speed, 2012 | 24m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Tunnel Vision
FFA: Jeff Jackson | 4 | Austin | ||
V4 | ★★ Dragon Lady | 2m | Little Rock City | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Narcissus
| 6 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.12a | ★★ Too Many Puppies
FA: orter Jarrard & Chris Snyder, 1992 | 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Flesh For Lulu
FA: Jerry Handren, 1987 | 33m, 11 | Rumney | ||
V4 | ★★ Neil's Lunge
FFA: Neil Pothier | 4m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ||
V4 | ★★★ Ketron Classic | 4m | Tablelands | ||
5.12a | ★★ Magnum Opus
| 30m, 10 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Delicatessen
Much steepness and some difficulty on the left side of the most overhung part of the cave. FA: Dru Mack & Dustin Stephens | 26m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★ Stay the Hand
| 15m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Snozzberries
The obvious line up the centre of the wall. A classic route linking an awesome serious of features. Is 11d elsewhere. FA: Kevin Quinn & Dan Beck, 2012 | 27m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Lost Souls | 20m | New River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★ Maneater
| 8m, 4 | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Cookie Monster
| 25m, 7 | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Supafly
FA: Chris Martin, 2001 | 21m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12- | ★★★ Anunnaki
| 15m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.12a | ★ Pretzel Logic
FA: Paul Wonsavage, 1997 | Rumney | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Teeanova | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.12a | ★★ Second Coming
| 18m, 7 | St. George | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Mesquiter
Starts on a slight bulge. Multiple cruxes and rests. All bolts except the first 4 have perma draws. | 33m, 15 | Lime Kiln Canyon | ||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Forbiddance
| 30m, 16 | Maple Canyon | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Gimme Back My Bullets
| 15m | Red Rock | ||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Jade
The uber-classic test-piece 5.12- at Reimer's, besides Lipo. 12a, or 12b? There will never be a consensus! | Austin | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Wildfire
| 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★ Days Of Future Passed
FA: Bob D'Antonio & Greg Hand, 1996 | 21m, 8 | Boulder | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Separate Reality
An epic roof climb that has been soloed by many pros. FA: Ron Kauk, 1978 | 15m | Yosemite National Park | ||
5.12a | ★★ Fangoria
| 15m, 5 | Austin | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Firearms
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.12a | ★★ Cool Ranch Flavor Extension | 27m, 10 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.12a | ★★ Cardinal Sin
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Swedish Fish
The far right route at the Chocolate Factory. FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2012 | 34m, 14 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★ Cyclops | Red Wing | |||
5.12a | ★★ Tacit
FA: Porter Jarrard, 1997 | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★ Save the Heart to Eat Later
| 18m | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★ Kick Me In The Jimmie
FA: Jeff Moll, 1994 | 18m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★ Reckless Abandon
Leftmost route, climb onto the ledge above the lake to a high first bolt and then straight up. Head left around the bulge at bolt 4/5 for easier climbing, staright up is considered 5.12c. | 18m, 8 | Summersville Lake | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Break The Scene
| Red River Gorge | |||
V4 | ★★ Jones'n
| Red Rock | |||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | ★★★ WAY RAMBO
FA: Krister Jonsson | 30m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Dr. Goodkind
| Maple Canyon | |||
5.12a | ★★ Grip Tease
| 21m | Maple Canyon | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Empire Of The Fenceless | Boulder | |||
5.12a | ★★ Animal Riots Activist
| 14m, 7 | Boulder | ||
V4 | ★★★ The Pork Chop
Stand start (V2/V3), climb the right arete until it is possible to use the left lip. Top out at the apex. Precarious and commiting. There are a couple of sit start options: with both hands on the arete adds little difficulty, starting with a sidepull undercling feature just left and moving to the arete is V4. A variation (V2) exits right into the small dihedral above the start. | 6m | Red Rock | ||
5.12a | ★★ Sacbrood Virus
FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2013 | 23m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★ Katrina
| 20m, 5 | Austin | ||
5.12a | ★★ Pockets of Resistance | 20m | New River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★ Tic-tac-toe
| 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★ Latin Lover
Another technical and balancy Dihedrals climb. A tricky thin traversing crux comes near the top by the last bolt, but the rest of the route isn't that easy to figure out either. FA: Jean Marc Troussier, 1986 | 20m, 7 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.12a | ★★ Dry Times
| Maple Canyon | |||
5.12a | ★★ Defenseless Betty
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.12a | ★★ Ball Scratcher
FA: Jeff Moll, 1994 | 12m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
V4 | ★★★ Stem Gem
| 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Push
| Meadow River | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Cocaine rodeo | 32m | Ten Sleep Canyon | ||
5.12a | ★★ Fossil Family
Shares first three bolts of 'Family Unit' then follows the crack that curves up and right. | Rifle Mountain Park | |||
V4 | ★★★ Art of the Vogi | 2m | Little Rock City | ||
5.12a | ★★ Unattended Consequences
Many people's first 12! And a decent warm up for the harder climbs as the crux is short, although powerful. FA: EFR, T.England, GHu & SA, 2011 | 65m | Mount Lemmon | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12- | ★★ Lavender Eye
FA: Chad Davis, 2002 | 18m, 8 | Horseshoe Canyon Ranch | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Freebase
A Smith classic with bomber, vertical stone and excellent, consistently engaging and committing climbing. After a mid-height technical crux this route turns to sweet reaches between incut crimps. The good climbing seems to go on forever! Stick clip the first, a fall from here would be a catastrophic tumble down a rocky gully. There is a bolt in the wall for the belayer to clip into - strongly recommended (a couple extra slings and carabiners will make this a bit easier) FA: Dan Goodwin, 1987 | 25m, 7 | Smith Rock State Park | ||
5.12a | ★★ Work Ethic | Red Wing | |||
5.12a | ★★ Little Teapot
| Red River Gorge | |||
5.12a | ★★ Shaggin' Wagon | Bethel Area Crags | |||
YDS_ALT:5.12- | ★★ Hank`s Bacon
Bouldery crux low to a rest, then a technical crux at 2/3 height. Set: Jerry Daniels | 15m, 8 | Washington Pass | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Banana Hammock
FA: Dario Ventura, 2011 | 29m, 11 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★★★ KGB
| 18m | Red Rock | ||
5.12a/b | ★★★ Heavy Weather
The clean face right of the arete - super classic! | 20m, 11 | Shelf Road | ||
5.12a | ★★★ Liquid Oxygen | American Fork Canyon | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Psycho Wrangler
FA: Kenny Parker, 2005 | New River Gorge | |||
5.12a | ★★★ Forearm Follies
| 30m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12a | ★ Things As They Are Now
FA: Chris Smith | 12m, 3 | Rumney | ||
5.12a | ★★ Rainy Day Woman | 25m | North Bend | ||
V4 | ★★★ Overlooked | Pawtuckaway State Park |