Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
5.12c | ★★★ Mosaic
| Red River Gorge | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Orange Juice
One of the best. The only line up the otherwise blank piece of wall. Gorgeous. | 29m | Red River Gorge | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12 B - C | ★★★ Tsunami
Sustained face climbing on mostly good holds with a distinct crux midway. | 18m, 9 | Mount Lemmon | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Cell Block Six
FA: Brad Weaver & Kipp Trummel, 2007 | 24m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12c | ★★ Minstrel in the Gallery | 21m | Red Rock | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Stain
Classic resistance climbing at its finest. First route right of the arete, follow the chalk. Have an attentive belayer going to the third bolt. FA: Chris Snyder, 1994 | 15m, 6 | Red River Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★ The Pearl
| Red Rock | |||
5.12c | ★★ The Glitch | 18m | Red Rock | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Pettifogger
Starts in the corner / big crack and directly gains the face to the high first bolt. Easier terrain up to bolt 4 from where you reach into good unders. A reachy move into a slit are followed by a section that will test your finger strength. Jugs to the anchor. | 23m | New River Gorge | ||
V6 | ★★★ The Hulk | Tablelands | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Space Lord
| Maple Canyon | |||
V5 | ★★★ Serengeti | 4m | Tablelands | ||
5.12c | Heart Shaped Box
FA: Brian McCray, 1995 | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12c | ★★ Chain Reaction | Smith Rock State Park | |||
V6 | ★★★ Monkey Bar Right
| Red Rock | |||
5.12c | ★★ Pretty Hate Machine
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Hotline
| 17m | Red Rock | ||
5.12c | ★★ Herd Mentality
FA: Rob McFall | 21m, 8 | Red River Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★ Unnamed V5
FA: Jesse Cameron | Acadia National Park | |||
5.12c | ★★★ The Great Escape | Denver | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Sound of Power | Red Rock | |||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | ★★★ WAY RAMBO
FA: Krister Jonsson | 30m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Mirage
Sustained crimping to infinity and beyond. | Red River Gorge | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Deliverance
| Maple Canyon | |||
V6 | ★★★ Green Wall Center | Buttermilks | |||
V5 | ★★★ Lobster Claw | Hueco Tanks | |||
5.12c | ★★★ EKV | 23m, 11 | Ten Sleep Canyon | ||
5.12c | ★★★ The dinner roll | 23m, 11 | The Fins | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Mantis
Fun 5.11 climbing to a no hands rest. Left-ward cracks lead to a shake and then to thin, defined crux. Rest on another big pod system for the technical, slabby finish moves up and left to anchors. Perma draws after the first anchor (for lowering, good warmup to there). Bring 6 draws. | 37m, 15 | Lime Kiln Canyon | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Gingseng Route | Bethel Area Crags | |||
5.12b/c | ★★★ Huecos Rancheros
Awesome line right of 1/2 Route. A 80m rope will barely bring you back down. Watch out for the swing when unclipping the first bolt. | 42m, 15 | Zion National Park | ||
{AU} V5 | ★★ Go granny GO | Buttermilks | |||
5.12c | ★★ Hang 'em High
| Rifle Mountain Park | |||
5.12c | ★★★ New Wave Hookers
| 11m | Red Rock | ||
V5 | ★★★ Hammerhead | Horse Pens 40 | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Gun Tower
Pumpy and steep with loads of footwork to keep it doable. Bouldery and powerful moves before easy anchors. | Maple Canyon | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Heinous Cling
The best route of its grade at Smith. With a dynamic crux coming near the top, a climber needs to be careful to avoid getting pumped on the technical crimps and pockets below. The route is perfect in pretty much every way. The falls are clean and the climbing exciting, and this route should be on every climber's tick-list. Although the route extends to the top of the cliff, the upper section is rarely done. Both pitches together bump the grade to a very pumpy 5.12c with a couple of good runouts at the top. Most ascents of this route stop at the anchors halfway up (5.12a). FA: Alan Watts, 1984 | 33m | Smith Rock State Park | ||
V5 | ★★★ Dragonfly | 6m | Hueco Tanks | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Ten Digit Dialing | 18m, 7 | Denver | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Digital Readout
| 15m | Indian Creek Canyon | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Malice
Start up the ugly but easy choss slab and then get stuck in to the amazing, funky 3D climbing above. Brilliant movement. FA: Kipp Trummel, 2009 | 18m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Mule
| 27m | Red River Gorge | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | ★★ Kansas City
| Shawangunks | |||
V5 | ★★★ The Sit Down Traverse | Lincoln Woods State Park | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Demon Seed
FA: Andrew Wheatley, 2009 | 32m, 9 | Red River Gorge | ||
V6 | ★★★ The Wave | 3m | Little Rock City | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Learning to Crawl
| Austin | |||
V5 | ★★ Indian Rock Traverse
While it's possible to go right around Indian Rock, most people start at the very bottom of the path and finish at the top of the top set of stairs (after crossing the Stairway Slabs). | 61m | Indian & Mortar Rocks | ||
V5 | ★★ Genghis Khan | Little Rock City | |||
V6 | ★★ Milk the Milks | Buttermilks | |||
V6 | Back In The Saddle
FA: Ward Smith | 6m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ||
V6 | ★★★ Mr. Witty | Tablelands | |||
V5 | ★★★ Try Again
FFA: Ed Sewall, 1985 | Lincoln Woods State Park | |||
V6 | ★★★ Loadies Zen
FA: Ryan Durocher | 6m | Lincoln Woods State Park | ||
V6 | ★★ Cave Route | Buttermilks | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Cobble in the Sky
| 30m | Maple Canyon | ||
5.12c | ★★ Bobcat Logic | Wild Iris | |||
V5 | ★★★ The Kind | 3m | Rocky Mountain National Park | ||
V5 | ★★★ JBMFP
Ultra classic line featuring super small edges on a vertical aesthetic face. Balance and finger strength will be required | 5m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
V6 | ★★ Monkey Bar Traverse
| Red Rock | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Animal Attack P1
Route has broken near the top making it less fun than it used to be. Still a fantastic climb. Finish by traversing left to anchors for Straight Outta Compton. The extension goes out the roof and is not to be missed! | Mount Charleston | |||
5.12c | ★★★ 51
| Maple Canyon | |||
5.12c | ★ Lee Press-on | 12m | Red Rock | ||
V5 | ★★ The Ramp
| 6m | Indian & Mortar Rocks | ||
V5 | ★★★ Popeye | Horse Pens 40 | |||
5.12c | ★★ Good Earth
FA: Tom Georgivitz & John Georgivitz, 2004 | 24m, 8 | Rumney | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Resurrection
FA: Chris Martin, 1995 | 24m, 7 | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12c/d | ★★ Homo Faber
Crimpy, technical with a couple of distinct crux sections. Perma draws starting at bolt 5. Was graded 5.13a before. | 37m, 15 | Lime Kiln Canyon | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Belly of the Beast
| Red River Gorge | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Re-Do
Varied climbing up to an interesting crux then an immaculate section on perfect rock to the anchor. Set: todd goss | 13 | St. George | ||
V5 | ★ The Professor | Pawtuckaway State Park | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Wild Gift
| 14m | Red River Gorge | ||
5.12c | ★★ Natural Born Drillers
First route bolted at The Cathedral and one of the best. A huge journey up through crazy terrain. After clipping the bolt after the halfway anchor, unclip the anchor below to hugely reduce drag then head up and right via and arete, a corner crack and more steepness to a crimpy finale and no good hold to clip the anchor. Set: michal nad | 35m, 14 | St. George | ||
V5 | ★★★ Golden Shower | 5m | Rocktown | ||
5.12c | ★★★ Flying Monkey
| Rumney | |||
5.12c | ★★ Orgasmo
| Maple Canyon | |||
V4/5 | ★★ Dusty Coffee
| Red Rock | |||
V6 | ★★★ Saigon | Buttermilks | |||
V6 | ★★★ Shotgun | 4m | Little Rock City | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | ★★ Naked Man | Spokane | |||
5.12c | ★★★ Hellraiser
| Red River Gorge | |||
V6 | ★★★ Streetcar Named Desire
| 4m | Joshua Tree National Park | ||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | ★★ Ecstatic Electricity
Hard low crux | 15m, 8 | La Milagrosa Canyon | ||
V5 | ★★ Punk Rock Traverse
From the right side jug, traverse to the right end. | Fort Collins | |||
YDS_ALT:5.12 | No Solution (aka Retro-Dive)
| Shawangunks | |||
V6 | ★★★ Ride The Lightning | Pawtuckaway State Park | |||
5.12c | ★★ Blank Canvas
| Red River Gorge | |||
V6 | ★★★ Every Color You Are | Tablelands | |||
5.12c | ★★ Threadfin | 10m, 6 | Red Rock | ||
V6 - 8 | ★★★ The Angel Dyno
| Red Rock | |||
5.12c | ★★ Where's The Beef?
FA: Chris Martin | 15m, 5 | Red River Gorge | ||
V5 | ★★★ Crack of Doom
Crack just right of White Face | Little Rock City | |||
V5 | ★★ Hyperglide
| Red Rock | |||
V5 | ★★ Rave stand start | Tablelands | |||
V5 | ★★ Mr. Happy | Tablelands | |||
V6 | ★★★ Baby Martini | Hueco Tanks | |||
V5 | ★★★ Hobbit In A Blender | 5m | Hueco Tanks | ||
V5 | ★★★ Sternum | Little Rock City | |||
V6 | ★★★ King Cobra | Hueco Tanks | |||
V5 | ★★★ Kill by Numbers
Start with right hand jug and left hand sidepull under the cave. Slap your way up with the right and crimp with the left. Top out. | 2m | Joe's Valley |