Routes in United States of America for selected grade

1. 100' (5.7) Up the finger crack making your way up to the obvious hand crack. Gear belay (pro 1"-1.5"). A large flake takes a nice sling but puts you in a semi hanging belay.

2. 80' (5.8) Follow the awesome hand crack up to the dual crack system, move to the righthand system to finish out.

Pro to 4". 60m rap. This can be done as one long pitch.

Super classic crack climb.

4th class approach. Descend via 100' rappel. Pro to 1".

Left-most bolted line on the front of the cliff.

1. Climb the slab between bolts. Stay calm, it really is easy.... (5.5)

2. Stellar pitch up a dihedral crack system, you should try get another red cam stuck, this pitch needs more fixed gear! Can be linked with pitch 1. (5.7)

3. A long, long and rewarding pitch, the desert paten looks intimidating, but those cutouts are just sooooo good. For a confident leader you will be running this one out. (5.7)

4. The money pitch, but so short. Trend right off the belay over lots of air. Negotiate the offwidth, look around for gear, then fire out to the right across a series of stellar, unprotected but bomber face moves. Unreal. (5.8)

Descent: With 2x60m ropes, rappel down to the top of P2. Or, with 1 x 60m rope do 2 rappels with a hanging belay half way. From P2 anchors rappel to the ground avoiding the pool below.

Follow the big flake system. Great route for the grade.

Climb the closely spaced bolts up the center of the wall.

On the far right side of Jimmy, but to the left of Lonesome Dove (blunt arret). Start up the slab to some tricky moves that allow you to gain the finger crack. Follow the crack up, using some sweet layback moves over a bulge at the top that will leave you feeling quite exposed.

Watch out that your rope doesn't get stuck in the finger crack near the top.

An excellent alternate start to After Six with committing crack climbing and much less polish.

1. 120ft (5.8) Hand and finger crack climbing leads to face climbing at the crux. Belay near the large manzanita.

2. 140ft (5.7) A hand crack leads to low angle scrambling to gain the ledge.

Rappel with 2 ropes (a single 70m rope may or may not suffice), or join up with pitch 3 of After Six.

Pro to 2".

Route starts by traversing in from the right towards the first bolt, rather than pulling directly from below. (Direct start is in the 5.10-5.11 range depending on how direct.)

A great intro to climbing trad in the Moab area. Right facing corner to a 2 chain anchor.

This route is a lot of eyebrow climbing fun. One of the classics of looking glass. The exposure is great and the rock is phenomenal.

1. (90', 5.5) Climb low angled ground past numerous eyebrows to a ledge.

2. (100', 5.8) Climb up to and then along the right angling ramp that is obvious from a distance.

3. (100', 5.8) From the belay climb straight up the slab. Crux is early on.

4. (100', 5.7) Climb straight up from the belay or alternately (what I did to bypass a slower party) traverse left onto easier slab. This route is winding and requires a lot more rope, but is significantly easier than the direct version.

Location: From the end of the approach trail, head a little to the left and look for the pale right-angling ramp on the second pitch. Begin below the lower end of it.

Protection: Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes. It seems to me like there were bolt anchors at every belay. We rappelled the route Peregrine which is the next route right from the Nose.

Belay from natural anchors.

Starts at an obvious flake jutting out of the ground. A bit run-out after the last bolt to the anchors, but easier terrain.

Starts up easy climbing (which is often wet), to a sustained upper face, one of the longer moderates in the Parking Lot area.

Worth picking your way past the wet start for the good climbing on the steep upper section.

One of the best 5.8's in the world.

1. 140ft (5.8)

2. 100ft (5.8)

3. 100ft (5.8) 2&3 can be linked with 60m rope.

4. 160ft (5.8)

5. 110ft (5.8)

6. 100ft (5.6)

7. 130ft (5.7)

8. 80ft (5.7)

9. 75ft (5.8)

Descent: rap the route.

Start on the left side of the triangular cut-out, and follow the bolts up and generally right-wards to an anchor.

Morning shade, afternoon sun. Easy access. Sandstone is quite polished due to the high traffic, and the climbing a bit awkward in places. Make sure you look good, you'll be starring in 100's of tourist photos.

Climb follows the obvious crack on the western side, hand crack and jugs for most of the climb, albeit quite polished, it's well protected in the crack the whole way. The crux is about half way up past a bulge, some jamming required, then possibly a second crux towards the top as you're forced out left on to the face. Throughout, if you start to struggle to find the next big hold, reach high.

Three large bolt and chain belay under the summit, comfortable ledge, plenty of room for multiple climbers. It's then 8m of 4th class to the top, protected by 2 drilled pitons, it's worth belaying that for safety.

Descent: 1 x 60m rope reaches the base, you can angle your rappel to the side to allow other parties to climb the route.

Starts at the edge of the blocky ground on the right.

Go up the slab.

Starts on the right side of the base of Saddle Rock, just left of the gully, and just right of a roof about 20m up.

1. 5.8 (40m). Climb up initial scoops to a high first bolt. From there angle up and left past two more bolts, then up passing the roof on the left. Now, angle rightwards above the roof past two more bolts, then back left to a 6th bolt, then up to anchors near a large hole. This pitch wanders a lot, to reduce rope-drag issues, extend the first clip with a long sling, and the 3rd clip with a double-length sling, same for the 5th (or skip the fifth bolt).

2. 5.7 (30m) Climb directly up from the anchor past 4 bolts, then angle left to find the next belay.

3. 5.5 (20m) Climb up past a bolt to the final anchors.

Though this climb is protected only by bolts, with no gear placements, it is not by any measure a modern sport route. There are sizeable run-outs and rope-management issues that would not be expected on a sport climb.

Start at the obvious fist crack and step left after it to the high first bolt. Straight up to big jugs.

P1: 5.6. P2: 5.8.

Up the obvious terraces to a steeper upper face.

2nd bolted line from the left, with 8 bolts up to an anchor. Lots of fun.

In the center of East Wall is an obvious arch, rising up from the base of the cliff and curving rightwards. East Crack goes up the 2nd crack line right of the right-end of the arch.

1. 5.7, 160ft. Climb the crack, past a bulge and then upwards until a ledge/stance appears up and left of the crack. Belay. (small gear)

2. 5.8, 120ft. Step back right from the belay to the crack, and follow the left crack line upwards at the large flakes. Pull over two or three bulges (5.8 cruxes), then up the crack a bit further, then move right to the ledge system where this route, "Bear's Reach" and "East Wall" converge. Belay high and left on the shared ledge, if there's crowding (common).

3. 5.7 (crux only), 120ft. Step right from the belay and head up the obviously highly-trafficed and a bit polished crack. Pull the 5.7 crux roof, and then reach the 3rd class ledge. Place a piece (to protect the 2nd) then traverse right until you find a comfortable belay. Generally better to belay on the ledge, rather than over the top. to ease communication and rope drag.

Stellar climbing up a disappearing crack, then scary slabs above.

1. 50m 4th Class. Scramble up the apron from the road until you get to a large ledge below the steepening dome. The climbing starts here.

2. 50m 5.7 Easily up the left crack until it makes sense to move into the right hand crack system.

3. 40m 5.8 Follow the now single crack system. An exceptional finger crack pitch.

4. 35m 5.8 Continue up the single crack system until it disappears into the dome.

5. 30m 5.6 Runout slab up and left to an overlap (only gear in the pitch is here), then belay on a ledge just above it.

6. 55m 5.4 Several variants from here to the top, all of which are runout (in some cases exceptionally). Although there's a tempting groove to the left of the belay, going this way will incur a mandatory 40m runout with zero gear - not recommended! It's better to move up and diagonally right from the belay, which offers some (spaced) gear. Belay on low angled slab at a set of double bolts, shared with 'Great White Book' (this belay can get crowded).

7. 30m 5.2 Pleasant and better protected climbing straight up and over the overlaps above, or easier terrain (4th class) to the right of them.

Head over the back of the dome to an obvious left-trending gully - descend this.

4 bolts, finishing at a set of welded cold shuts.

Although it's not a long sustained splitter crack, this is a really nice route, especially if the Nose is occupied. The crack actually runs for only ~20 ft on the 3rd pitch and is flaring, but protectable. The Lambert/Shull guide rates it 5.8, but I thought it was really mellow for the grade.

Start: Pretty much where the approach trail meets the rock. Relatively short approach.

1. (80', 5.5) Climb up and stay right of bulge, then move left to anchors. Either this pitch is underrated or the next pitch is overrated, as they didn't feel that different in difficulty.

2. (100', 5.8) At start, look up & right to anchors at top of 2nd pitch. Aim for those. Plenty of gear options.

3. (120', 5.7) If climbing on 50m ropes, climb more than 120' to ensure enough rope for last pitch. There are no fixed anchors for the end of this pitch.

4. (150', 5.6) Move up & left, aiming for the top of The Nose.

Descent: same raps as nose at the base of a distinct downward pointing flake. Using two 50m ropes rap to the "parking lot"-anchors are on right end if facing rock; rap to anchors between The Nose & Sundial Crack; rap to ground.

Protection (stolen from the description of The Nose): "Lots of small and medium cams, TCUs, tri-cams, etc. Make sure you bring plenty of runners and some good stiff shoes."

The first pitch takes larger gear than you'd think. I used a yellow #2 Camalot. The party before us used a blue #3.

I was glad to have multiples of .3-.75 camalot C4's, C3's, & several TCU's. The gear in the goofy belay picture is pretty typical of what's needed through the whole climb (.5 C4, .4 C4, yellow TCU, 000 C3, 0C3).

Climb the first pitch of Pleasant Street, and from the tree, get over the lip and onto the dike on the right. Follow the not so obvious first moves toward the very obvious left slanting crack.

The first pitch (5.6 R) is a good mental test for the leader on the unprotected but beatiful slab/dike.

The second pitch (5.8) is a must-do for any crack climber, and everyone else. The well protected crack offers perfect conditions to practice jams, calf endurance and pain tolerance (tapping might be a good idea, although not necessary). Be ready to experience the polished slab that offers slippery foot placements and weird-angled hand jams before going up and on the small slab/crimps crux at the end, before enjoying the bliss of a good belay and a wonderful view at the top, while you recover from the experience!

Two pitches up the center of the Monday Morning Slab pinnacle.

Climb 3rd/4th class scrambles to a ledge in the middle of the slab, where there is an obvious pin-scarred crack going up the center of a slab.

1. 5.7, 110ft. Climb the pin-scarred crack until it fades, and a foot-traverse heads left and up, continue until a tree and a short hand crack to a ledge. Belay at the tree on left, or bolts farther right.

2. 5.8, 120ft Climb the obvious crack up, through a small roof, then up cracks and slab to a 2 bolt anchor.

3. 5.2, 70ft, not often climbed - continue up and right past a tree to the top of the formation.

Has crack for trad but retrobolted. Redwing stone is soft and can break.

Same start as Geisha Girl but continue straight up and through a high roof to the anchor.

An incredibly aesthetic line as the finger crack cuts across the striped granite. But to get there... thin face climbing on the slab leads up to an undercling with good gear, however the fall would be a nasty ankle breaking ride down in front of the bottom flake. Best to be solid at 5.8 before jumping on this one.

9 Bolts to LO. Start behind a double-trunked oak, and climb the nice face past Rumney-style pockets.

Climb the line of glue-in bolts to the left of the big flake/chimney that "Glory Jean's" ascends. Anchors are hidden from the ground, but up and left of the (visible) anchors for "Glory Jean's".

Route is often wet, but good climbing if dry.

A committing start with ample exposure at top. Start by traversing around the bouldery overhang then continue up the airy arete.

Starts just left of the tree in the slabby corner. 2 bolts low down and one high up.

3 bolts, plus ring anchors.

Climb the thin crack about 10ft right of Neon Sunset until it runs out, then up a seam, then run out to a bolt, then to the anchor for whichever adjacent route you choose.

A challenging climb with a thin crack in a stemming corner. Linking P2 and P3 is the way to go as long as you have a 60-meter rope.

1. (120', 5.8) Starting on low-angle slab, scramble up to a crack and continue through a right-facing corner with a fingertip-sized crack. Belay at a rounded ledge with good gear in the widening crack.

2. (170', 5.5) Continue up the crack on easier ground, moving up and right until the corner ends and find a good spot to belay (or continue up and right to the anchors).

3. (60', 5.5) Climb up and right on good friction using cracks and eyebrows for pro until you get to the new upper rap anchors for Gemini Crack.

Location:Starts just left of Second Coming. Rap from upper Gemini ring anchors to the Sentry Box Ledge, then a second rap to the ground.

Protection: Small to medium nuts and cams. No fixed gear.

Starts up an easy scramble to a dihedral in the quartzite; exiting right near the top of the dihedral to the last bolt before the anchor is the crux.