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Routes as trad in Moab

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Showing 1 - 100 out of 377 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
5.14
Castle Valley Pariott Mesa
5.14 Voodoo Child

FA: Jay Smith, 2008

Trad 150m, 4
5.13+
Mill Creek Other Mill Creek Areas
5.13+ Real Talk
Trad 24m
Potash Road Long Canyon
5.13+ Mexican Snow Fairy

FFA: Jean-Pierre Ouellet, 2012

Trad 45m
5.13b III
Castle Valley Castleton Tower
5.13b III Ivory Tower
  1. 110 ft (5.12b) Pro: single set of cams to 5", 7 quickdraws.

  2. 105 ft (5.13b) Pro: 16 quickdraws.

  3. 65 ft (5.12b) Pro: cams to 0.5-2", 3 quickdraws.

  4. 80 ft (5.12a) Pro: 0.75" cam, 7 quickdraws.

Descend with a 70m rope in 4 rappels down the south face of the arrow and then into the dihedral of 'Kor-Ingalls'[19398475] to the bottom.

FFA: Chris Kalous & Sam Lightner Jr., 2012

Mixed trad 110m, 4, 33
5.13-
Potash Road Day Canyon Canyon Lower
5.13- Concepcion

Was graded as a 2-pitch 5.10 A0 but later freed by Dean Potter as a single-pitch route (thus the name change).

FFA: Dean Potter †, 2003

Trad 72m
5.12+
Potash Road Physics Department
5.12+ Blood Hush Trad
5.12
Potash Road Day Canyon Wingate Buttress
5.12 Finger Bandit

Splitter finger crack.

Trad 17m
Potash Road Day Canyon Canyon Lower
5.12 Kiss Of The Spider Woman

Starts in a right-facing corner.

Trad 46m
Potash Road Physics Department
5.12 Strong Muons Trad
Castle Valley The Convent
5.12 Buddha's Delight

Right facing dihedral in the southern third of the west face. Start is marked with a plaque and belay bolt.

  1. 30m, 5.11

  2. 30m, 5.10-

  3. 37m, 5.12

  4. 40m, 5.11

  5. 25m, 5.9

  6. 10m, 5.8

Descent: Walk north to find "Choir Boyz" and rappel that.

FA: Scott McLeod & Andrew Wilder

Trad 150m, 6
5.12 The Middle Way

Starts about 13m right of "Value Of Audacity" and 30m left of "Choir Boyz".

  1. 40m, 5.12

  2. 35m, 5.11+

  3. 20m, 5.10.

Descent: Rappel "Choir Boyz".

FA: Carter Jensen & Scott McLeod

Trad 110m, 3
5.12 R
Mill Creek Lower Mill Creek
5.12 R Wild Kingdom
Trad 120m, 3
5.12 X
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #4
5.12 X Jingus Launch
Mixed trad 25m, 1
5.12c
Mill Creek Lower Mill Creek
5.12c Genetic Denial
Trad 21m
5.12c The Trad Warrior
Mixed trad 45m, 10
5.12b/c
Mill Creek Lower Mill Creek
5.12b/c Out of Africa
Trad 20m
5.12b/c Axis of Evil
Trad 42m
5.12b
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #5
5.12b Something Nasty
Trad 18m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #2
5.12b Welcome To Anexia
Trad 25m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #1
5.12b Midnight Frightening

Hard crimps to a bolt under a flake, trending right to another overlap and another bolt. Anchors straight up from there.

Mixed trad 21m, 2
5.12b I
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #1
5.12b I Coup d'Etat
Trad 15m
5.12b R
Mill Creek Other Mill Creek Areas
5.12b R Sepultura
Trad 37m
5.12a
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #5
5.12a Shoot Up Or Shut Up Corner
Mixed trad 24m, 4
5.12a R
Onion Creek Towers The Hindu
5.12a R North Face Trad 84m, 3
5.12-
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #5
5.12- Chunder Bunny
Trad 18m
Gemini Bridges Trail Little Valley Alcove Right
5.12- The Good Fight Trad 21m
Castle Valley The Convent
5.12- Choir Boyz

All anchors are bolted well.

  1. Crux, 5.12-

  2. 5.10+

  3. 5.11+

  4. 5.11C

  5. Easy.

Descent: Rappel the route.

FA: Andrew Wilder & Scott McLeod, 2009

Trad 120m, 5
5.12- PG13
Gemini Bridges Trail Little Valley The Whisky Caps Makers Mark
5.12- PG13 Ralphs Route Trad 76m, 2
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon The Academy
5.12- PG13 Diploma Trad 27m
5.11+
Mill Creek Lower Mill Creek
5.11+ Hasta La Vista
Trad 120m, 3
5.11+ Poqito Negro
Trad 120m, 4
5.11+ Fox Trot
1 5.11+
2 5.11
3 5.10
4 5.10
Trad 120m, 4
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Windy Ridge
5.11+ Boy Howdy Trad 21m
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Scorched Earth Crag
5.11+ Stiletto Trad 15m
Potash Road Long Canyon Maverick Buttress
5.11+ Miss Kitty Likes It That Way Trad 24m
Potash Road Day Canyon Raptor Tower
5.11+ Prohibition Crack
1 5.10+ 120ft
2 5.11+ 100ft
3 5.11- 30ft

Starts on the north side.

Trad 76m, 3
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #1
5.11+ El Face-o Diablo

Shares anchor with El Cracko Diablo.

Mixed trad 17m, 3
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon Convoy Wall
5.11+ Piece A Shit, Pile Monkey Nuts. Trad 18m
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon House of Putterman
5.11+ Digital Stimulation Trad 24m
Colorado River Road Big Bende Butte
5.11+ Infrared Mixed trad 140m, 4, 7
Castle Valley The Rectory
5.11+ Coyote Calling
1 5.11+ 30m
2 5.11 35m
3 5.11 35m
4 5.11 35m

Starts about 30 yards right of Fine Jade (30 yards north on the east face).

Pitch 1 - Sustained lieback finger corner via one bolt to final crux two meters below the hanging belay.

Pitch 2 - From the belay, step 3 m left to flakey crack. Up a #.75 section to a flaring steep thin hands section. Belay on ledge.

Pitch 3 - Steep fingers with occasional lieback moves. Luckily the sandy block before the belay was removed. However, the final moves are a bit awkward (well protected with a #3).

Pitch 4 - Step down a bit and traverse left for 5m along thin, balance moves without any pro to a slightly sandy crack. Best, try to back clean the first placements to improve belaying situation for the second. Continue crack to big ledge and finish on right exit variant of fine jade via 3 bolts and some challenging face moves.

Gear: doubles #0.1-3 with extra finger and hand sizes, slings, double ropes

Descent: from top anchor rappel via Fine jade (4 single rope rappels or two 60m double rope rappels)

Trad 140m, 4
5.11+ I
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #1
5.11+ I El Cracko Diablo Direct
Trad 17m
5.11+ IV
Castle Valley The Convent
5.11+ IV Value Of Audacity

No fixed anchors on the route.

  1. 150ft, 5.11+

  2. 120ft, 5.11+

  3. 120ft, 5.8

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

FA: Earl Wiggins & Keith Reynolds

Trad 140m, 3
5.11+ PG13
Mill Creek Lower Mill Creek
5.11+ PG13 Silver Back
Trad 91m, 3
Arches National Park Devil Dog Spire
5.11+ PG13 Industrial Disease Trad 61m, 3
Arches National Park The Marching Men
5.11+ PG13 Sand Hearse - original Route Trad 2
5.11d A2
Arches National Park Park Avenue
5.11d A2 Candelabrum-Hall Of Flame Trad 3
5.11d
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Abraxas Wall
5.11d Xylokane Trad 21m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #4
5.11d Mystery Route
Trad 24m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #2
5.11d Mother Trucker
Trad 20m
5.11d I
Castle Valley Castleton Tower
5.11d I Hollow Point
Trad 49m
5.11 A1+ R
Gemini Bridges Trail Little Valley The Bride
5.11 A1+ R Shotgun Wedding Trad 91m, 3
5.11 C1 R
Arches National Park Tower Of Babel
5.11 C1 R The Three Gargoyles Trad 150m, 5
5.11 A0
Castle Valley Pariott Mesa
5.11 A0 Hot Yoga

Climbs the crack just east of Ascended Yoga Masters, and joins that route deep inside the rock at the 2nd belay.

FA: Sam Boyce & Andrew Parnas, 2016

Trad 140m, 5
5.11
Mill Creek Other Mill Creek Areas
5.11 Black Lesbian Nightmare
Trad 27m
Mill Creek Lower Mill Creek
5.11 Walk The Line
Trad 110m, 3
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Isolated Climbs
5.11 Plan D Trad 21m
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Ice Cream Parlor
5.11 Rattler Trad 21m
Potash Road Long Canyon Shady Crag
5.11 Mini Skirts and Halter Tops

Climb the corner right of the leaning pillar in the middle of the crag. Follow corner up to the glorious #2 Camalot roof.

Trad 2
Potash Road Day Canyon Canyon Lower
5.11 Chicken Tejero

Left facing corner. Gear: 0.3 to 2.

Trad
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #1
5.11 Smoke Filled Rooms

Shallow left facing corner. 1 fixed piece just below the crux.

Trad
5.11 Warsteiner

40 ft left of Coup D'etat, climb up a chossy corner to ledge, transitioning onto broken face with 5 bolts.

Mixed trad 15m, 5
Gemini Bridges Trail Little Valley Alcove Right
5.11 Rattle Snake Crack Trad 35m
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon Monitor And Merrimac Buttes
5.11 Stand And Deliver Trad 61m, 3
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon House of Putterman
5.11 Easton's Corner Trad 24m
Arches National Park The Marching Men
5.11 Cuddlebunny Tower - original Route Trad
Castle Valley The Convent
5.11 Whore House

Northern end of the Convent, on the west face. Accessing the base of the route requires some crawling along horizontal breaks, beginning at "Value of Audacity", and continuing under "West Face Dihedral".

  1. 170ft, 5.9

  2. 110ft, 5.11-

  3. 30ft, 5.10 (can be linked with P2 dependent on rope drag?)

  4. The Roof. 100ft, 5.10

  5. 50ft, 5.8

Descent: Rappel Choir Boyz

FA: Sam Boyce & Mark Bowling

Trad 140m, 5
Castle Valley The Rectory
5.11 Find Shade

Start 30ft left of Fine Jade

Trad 110m, 4
Castle Valley Pariott Mesa
5.11 Ghost Dance

FA: Jay Smith & K Calhaun, 2008

Trad
5.11 I
Fisher Towers The Cobra
5.11 I The Cobra Trad 12m
5.11 PG13
Gemini Bridges Trail Little Valley The Whisky Caps Makers Mark
5.11 PG13 Hall Pass Trad 76m, 2
5.11 R
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon Monitor And Merrimac Buttes
5.11 R Ascent Into The Maelstrom Trad 91m, 3
5.11 X
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon Monitor And Merrimac Buttes
5.11 X Hypercrack On The Anchor Chain Trad 61m, 2
5.11c
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Abraxas Wall
5.11c Navajo Warrior Trad 52m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #5
5.11c Blowin' Chunks
Mixed trad 20m, 4
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #3
5.11c Flakes Of Wrath Direct
Trad 20m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #2
5.11c Last Tango In Potash
Mixed trad 20m, 5
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #1
5.11c Seam As It Ever Was
Mixed trad 26m, 1
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon Monitor And Merrimac Buttes
5.11c Merrimac Butte, The Albatross Trad 61m, 2
Arches National Park The Great Wall
5.11c Mr. Sombrero Trad 24m
5.11b
Mill Creek Lower Mill Creek
5.11b Petrified Feline
1 5.10+
2 5.10+
3 5.11b
4 5.10

Starts just left of Just left of Sexy Beast

Trad 120m, 4
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Bakery
5.11b The Edibles Trad 30m
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Scorched Earth Crag
5.11b Dark Path Trad 24m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #6
5.11b Static Cling
Trad 21m
5.11b Tired Of Talus
Trad 26m, 3
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #5
5.11b Sand And Steel
Mixed trad 25m, 2
5.11b Twitin' Shinkies
Mixed trad 20m, 5
5.11b III
Castle Valley Castleton Tower
5.11b III Burning Inside
Trad 120m
5.11b IV
Castle Valley Castleton Tower
5.11b IV North Face with Webster Variation
Trad 120m, 3
5.11a
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Predator Tower
5.11a Reign Of Terror Trad 46m, 2
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Bakery
5.11a Bakery Route Trad 76m, 3
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Ice Cream Parlor
5.11a Epidemic Trad 61m, 2
Kane Creek Kane Springs Canyon Abraxas Wall
5.11a Krack Kokane Trad 15m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #5
5.11a Baby Blue
Trad 20m
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #4
5.11a Shoot Up Or Shut Up
Mixed trad 25m, 6
Potash Road Wall Street Reflector Post #2
5.11a Half Pipe
Trad 25m
5.11a Astro Lad

Finger crack in a corner. First pitch only.

Mixed trad 20m, 2
5.11a Potash Sanction
Trad 20m
Courthouse Pasture Tusher Canyon Echo Pinnacle
5.11a Free Window Route Trad 82m, 2
Arches National Park Sunshine Wall Slabs Golden Child Area
5.11a Golden Showers Trad 30m

Showing 1 - 100 out of 377 routes.

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