Grade | Route | Gear style | Crag | Quality | Climber | Date | |||
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5.7 |
★★ Shady Lady
![]() | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sat 3rd Nov 2018 | ||||
Night climb
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5.8 |
★★★ Triple S
![]() | 27m | Seneca | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 9th May 2004 | ||||
What a great crack
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5.7 |
★ Simple J. Malarkey
![]() | 52m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 9th May 2004 | ||||
Tough first move on the 3rd pitch.
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5.9 |
★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | Wed 21st Aug 2013 | |||||
Was a TR !! but great climb
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5.8 5.7 |
★★ Hippie Dreams
![]() | 23m, 7 | Summersville Lake | ★★★ Classic | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | ||||
about the best for the grade - fantastic view
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5.7 |
★ That Eight
![]() | 21m, 5 | Summersville Lake | ★ Good | Wed 1st Aug 2007 | ||||
wet spots
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5.9 |
★ Ingrate
![]() | 3 | Summersville Lake | ★ Good | Wed 1st Aug 2007 | ||||
use a cam to tether your belayer
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5.8 |
★ Sniff the Drill
![]() | 21m, 6 | Summersville Lake | ★ Good | Wed 1st Aug 2007 | ||||
can have wet spots
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5.11b |
★★ Barfing Butterfiles
![]() | 7 | Summersville Lake | ★★★ Classic | Wed 1st Aug 2007 | ||||
A couple fantastic moves, good roof, great climb
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5.10d |
★ Moon Pie Deluxe
![]() | 7 | Summersville Lake | Average | Sat 1st Sep 2007 | ||||
not crazy about this one. weird sequence
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5.9 |
★★ Fool Effect
![]() | 38m, 13 | New River Gorge | Fri 20th Aug 2021 | |||||
Climbed it after rain. Wall is very slippery. Some dirt were washed down in the hand holds. Crux at the bottom and one third of the wall. I had to grab QuickDraws for a few moves. Then it rained about 5 minutes just to get the wall more wet before Glory followed. I had to haul her for half of the climb.... Top out can connect to the endless trail.
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5.10b |
★★ Broken Neck (Broken Neck (aka Breakneck Direct))
![]() | 24m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Sep 2004 | ||||
Fun, sequency, vertical, balancy, fingerlocking, crimps, runout start and runout finish - what more could you ask for!
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5.10a |
★ Totally Tammy
![]() | 18m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 21st Sep 2003 | ||||
Wierd start, but a fun slab climb.
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5.7 |
★★★ West Pole
![]() | 41m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Extremeley fun climbing. Goes through a massive imposing roof which is full of jugs.
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5.12a |
★★★ Narcissus
![]() | 6 | Summersville Lake | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sat 20th Sep 2003 | ||||
One hell of a sweet route, not a bad move on it. The whole thing is fun, from the stemming corner, to the balancy traverse, to the mega huge roof haul. The whole thing is steep, and the whole thing is classic.
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5.5 |
★★ Candy Corner
![]() | 29m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Done while it was PISSING rain! It felt very hard because of the water. It was pouring down my arms every time I reached up for a hold, and my glasses fogged up, meaning any gear I was placing was either without my glasses, or through fogged lenses! Very exciting, and a little worrying. Pour Mike belaying in the rain!
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5.10a |
★★★ Cottonmouth
![]() | 27m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Jul 2005 | ||||
Cottonmouth to Venom in one is classic!
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5.10b |
★ Voodoo Surfing
![]() | 21m, 8 | Summersville Lake | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Sweet climb!!!!
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5.8 |
Blue Ridge Magazine Trash
![]() | 15m | Nelson Rocks | Crap | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
This climb is a horrible piece of crap, that lives up to its name of trash. Every move is awkward, every hold is big enough to hold onto, but slants the wrong way. The pro is not great. The crux up top is wierd to read and if done wrong (ie my way) is harder then 5.8 and is protected only by a green camalot that goes into a pocket, then expands completely and rattles around in it's spot. The top two lobes are only heald in buy an eighth inch of rock each, although the two bottom lobes are held in buy more, and the BD double axle is theoretically supposed to be able to take that kind of a fall, except for that thin rock on the top two lobes. The route sees no action, so the crux above that shitty camalot is a lichen jungle, I had to brush the wall off to find holds. The shuts will put a shitload of twists in your rope if you thread them directly through and toprope it as we did since it looked like rain was on the way and wanted to be able to just lower off, not have to mess around with retrieving gear from the top. This climb is horrible, and not worth doing, especially considering the quality and amount of other routes in the area.
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5.10a |
★★ Castor
![]() | 64m | Seneca | ★ Good | Sat 4th Sep 2004 | ||||
Fun and sequency.
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5.8 |
★ Block Party
![]() | 14m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Did it in the rain, after a big sweaty guy had just dogged his way up it, and it was one of the most greasy things I ever sunk my hands onto. My only fall was simply from slipping off of a jug with a particularly thick coating of grease.
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5.6 |
Banana
![]() | 8m | Seneca | Average | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
An OK climb, loose holds at the bottom which have been that way forever with not too fun moves.
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5.10a |
★★★ The Rico Suave Arete
![]() | 20m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Sun 21st Sep 2003 | ||||
Classic line, mega fun.
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5.8 |
★★ Lichen or Leave It
![]() | 30m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Fun, nice to do laps on a sweet crack system.
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5.8 |
★★ Ye Gods and Little Fishes
![]() | 27m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Another one of the climbs we did on that weekend it poured rain. A great lead by Mike. It was soaking wet but luckily some of the hardest sections were out of the rain and not too bad.
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5.8 |
★★ Tomato
![]() | 47m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Fun wide bottome section.
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5.7 |
★★★ Pleasant Overhangs
![]() | 88m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Mon 24th May 2004 | ||||
Jeezus! Talk about exposed! Scared the crap out of me. Not a hard move in it, but due to running the top two pitches together I was having to majorly conserve gear, making it quite runout, and since it's a traverse, the falls would be yuk. Big moves as well. Summary: Great climb, mainly for the exposure. Suffers from overuse - the footholds are literally laminated with shoe rubber, making the climb that much more scary.
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5.11b |
★★★ Englishman's Crack
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Took one fall - next time!!!
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5.8 |
★★★ Triple S
![]() | 27m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Superb! I did it onsight, ground up, with passive only gear on an unfamiliar rack!
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5.9 |
★★ Marshall's Madness
![]() | 50m | Seneca | ★ Good | Sun 5th Sep 2004 | ||||
Akward but fun - worth doing to link up to Crack of Dawn.
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5.8 |
★ Triple S Direct Finish
![]() | 15m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Nice ending to the superb first pitch.
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5.10c |
★★ Helter Skelter
![]() | 30m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Link up the start of Lichen or Leave it, and then the sequency but short finish of this climb for a sweet pitch of climbing.
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5.9 |
★★ Unrelenting Verticality
![]() | 50m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Hard! Pumpy and very few feet, big moves, lots of fun.
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5.11a |
★ Ambush
![]() | 12m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 23rd May 2004 | ||||
Sweet climb - You can work a rest in underneath the roof by jamming your back against the big flake. Plug in that pro and go go go. Pumpfest.
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5.9 |
★★ The Warlock
![]() | 15m | Seneca | ★ Good | Mon 24th May 2004 | ||||
Pro is a little tricky, but there. Take small cams and wires.
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5.9 |
★★ Sorry Howard
![]() | 50m | Nelson Rocks | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Nice climb, really long. Be sure to bring some longer draws to belay from at the top anchors, otherwise it will be a fully hanging belay with very little movement for comfort. Also some cams (gold and red and around that size camalots) for use between the top bolt and anchors are really nice, but it could be run out, the moves aren't too hard, but at that point you have climbed a 130 feet or so of solid 5.9, so you could be a bit on the pumped side.
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5.10a |
★★ Orange Oswald
![]() | 21m, 7 | Summersville Lake | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Very sweet, large runout to the top with some super sweet gym like holds. The shuts on this are DODGY! Worn halfway through, middle one spins around and is way out from the wall, right one the entire nut turns when you twist a little on the shut, and only the left seems good.
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5.4 |
★★ Ecstasy Junior
![]() | 46m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Done in the pouring rain with Mike. Very fun. All the climbers not keen enough to climb in the rain were watching us from the Shadows.
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5.11c |
★★ Autumn Fire
![]() | 18m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Hard! I can normally second 5.11, but this beast shut me down, VERY HARD.
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5.9 |
★★★ Climbin' Punishment
![]() | 70m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Sustained. Second pitch is way long, be careful to save enough gear for the top. I had to start consolidating gear on biners and other stuff to make enough draws for the top.
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5.8 |
★★ Discrepancy
![]() | 17m | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | ||||
Done with a wierd passive only rack, which made pro a tricky and time consuming task to place.
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5.10a |
★★ Madmen Only
![]() | 26m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Sat 4th Sep 2004 | ||||
Awesome climb. Wild moves - boulder start, get the pro, climb up to a stance, place pro high, then commit to the wild layback. Crazy! Fire through before getting pumped out, get onto the ramp, then make the airy, wild traverse to the wide, angular crack in the rock. An akward move and then you reach through to the other side of Seneca on a giant jug, relish in the wind that comes through this crazy feature, plug in gear and shoot to the anchors. Wild pitch, action packed, as fun as it gets.
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5.10b |
★★★ Venom
![]() | 40m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Wed 6th Jul 2005 | ||||
Cottonmouth to Venom in one is classic!
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5.8 |
★★ The Burn
![]() | 29m | Seneca | ★★★ Classic | Sun 29th Feb 2004 | ||||
Great climb - insecure jams and insecure feet for the fun crux up top. If you like this, go try Lichen or Leave it, it's the same sort of climb except more solid jams and feet with bigger funner moves between them.
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5.10a |
★★★ Crack of Dawn
![]() | 49m | Seneca | ★★ Very Good | Sun 5th Sep 2004 | ||||
Awesome climb. Lead in one mega pitch from start of Marshalls Madness all the way through Crack of Dawn for a marathon pitch of fun.
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5.10a |
★★ Pollux
![]() | 12m | Seneca | ★ Good | Sat 4th Sep 2004 | ||||
Fun and sequency.
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5.0 |
Gunsight to North Peak
![]() | Seneca | ★ Good | Tue 13th Apr 2010 | |||||
Fun, very exposed and airy.
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5.10d 5.10c |
★ High Times
![]() | 12m | New River Gorge | Sun 24th Aug 2003 | |||||
That crack is so gooood!!!
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5.7 |
★★ Cresent Moon
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | Don't Bother | Wed 6th Aug 2003 | ||||
nothing classic unless you like off-widths
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5.9 |
★ Doce Doe
![]() | 30m | New River Gorge | Don't Bother | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
damp and mossy, we were waiting for another climb and this filled the time.
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5.12a |
★★ Fly Girls
![]() | 15m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 29th May 2006 | ||||
bouldery start with crux just above second bolt
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5.10b |
★ Two Tone Arrete
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | Mon 29th May 2006 | |||||
quite damp and just out of reach bolts...quite heady
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5.13b |
★★★ Just Send It
![]() | 21m, 7 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Mon 30th May 2005 | ||||
a long way off
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5.11b |
★ Mega-Jug (The Mega Jug)
![]() | 12m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 30th May 2005 | ||||
luckily the crimps at the roof are decent
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5.12b |
★ All the Way Baby (Animal Logic)
![]() | 3 | Summersville Lake | ★★ Very Good | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
a hard start and a huge right toss at the top
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5.11c |
Spice
![]() | 5 | Summersville Lake | ★ Good | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
one hard roof move
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5.11d |
★★★ Under the Milky Way
![]() | 7 | Summersville Lake | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
awesome arete, lots of rests
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5.11b |
★★ Wild Seed
![]() | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 30th May 2005 | ||||
nice traverse before the steep stuff. only one hard move.
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5.10d |
October Surprise
![]() | 12m | New River Gorge | Don't Bother | Mon 30th May 2005 | ||||
lame
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5.10b 5.10d |
★ Gunned, but Not Forgotten
![]() | 9m, 4 | Summersville Lake | Don't Bother | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
long lock-off to clip anchors
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5.11c 5.11b |
★ Delayed Stress Syndrome (The Route of All Evil)
![]() | 11m, 3 | Summersville Lake | ★ Good | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
short, lots of heel hooking
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5.11c |
★★★ Aesthetica
![]() | 26m, 8 | New River Gorge | ★★★ Mega Classic | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
should have given it another go after hanging the draws...next time.
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5.11a |
★★ Discombobulated
![]() | 26m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 27th May 2005 | ||||
thin bottom, airy finish
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5.11a |
★★ No Way, Jose
![]() | 4 | Summersville Lake | ★ Good | Sun 28th May 2006 | ||||
sweet
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5.11a |
★ Do It
![]() | 2 | Summersville Lake | Average | Sun 29th May 2005 | ||||
two bolts
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5.9 |
★ Shaved Scamper
![]() | 15m, 5 | Reed's Creek | ★ Good | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
Nice wall with interesting climbing due to the diagonal nature of the bedding plane
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5.9 |
★ Gypsies
![]() | 15m, 6 | Reed's Creek | ★ Good | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
Nice route, good warm up
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5.10c |
★ Apophis
![]() | 21m, 8 | Reed's Creek | Don't Bother | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
Someone had to clean it. Not great to lead or second, felt harder than 10a if you are short off the hands free ledge at 5th bolt. MP gives it 5.10c/d which is more realistic. Nice start but the bolting, rock and line after that aren’t great.
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5.10a |
★ Block Magic
![]() | 18m, 8 | Reed's Creek | Average | Sat 30th Sep 2023 | ||||
Split personality route. Probably would have climbed better as a mixed trad route with better bolt placements. Not a fan.
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5.8 |
★ Can't Pray The Gray Away
![]() | 17m | Smoke Hole Canyon | ★ Good | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | ||||
Had to do it for the name. Was actually quite good.
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5.10a |
★ Native Suns
![]() | 12m | Smoke Hole Canyon | ★ Good | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | ||||
Spaced bolts, no stopper moves
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5.10c |
★ Black Hanger
![]() | 15m | Smoke Hole Canyon | ★ Good | Sun 1st Oct 2023 | ||||
Nice moves, would get very good if ledge not there
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5.10b |
★★ The Green Piece
![]() | 21m, 6 | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Generally fun, like many of the routes here way overchalked. I spent the climb blowing the excess chalk off the holds.
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5.10b |
★ Low Voltage
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Liked this better than route to left, though used shorter person traverse in for the start. First route at NRG
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5.10d |
Boing
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Found it easier than the route to the right, the grades could be reversed.
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5.10b ~5.10c |
★ Springer
![]() | 23m | New River Gorge | Average | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Some nice moves but so caked in chalk it was unpleasant, especially the final moves above the last bolt.
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5.9 |
★ Jumpin' Ring Snakes
![]() | 20m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Fun trad climb. #5 handy.
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5.9 |
★★★ Flight of the Gumbie
![]() | 24m, 9 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Mon 2nd Oct 2023 | ||||
Interesting final moves made the route
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5.10a |
★★ The Entertainer
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | |||||
My right shoulder just can’t handle V grooves any more. Had to change sequence at start. Rest of it was fine.
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5.10d |
★★ Realignment
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | ||||
Route was pretty dirty, but good moves. Not sure I would lead it without checking out gear. It is there, but spaced.
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5.9 |
★★ New Yosemite
![]() | 18m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | ||||
Overhanging hand jams. My gloves both lost wrist strap but I hung in there
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5.9 |
★★★ Four Sheets To The Wind
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★★ Classic | Tue 3rd Oct 2023 | ||||
What a great route. Steep and looks improbable.
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5.9 |
★★ Happy Hands
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | Average | Wed 4th Oct 2023 | ||||
I wasn’t a fan. Hard to get out of sentry box type bit. The whole thing felt dirty and slippery.
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5.10b |
★★ Wham, Bam, Thanks For The Jam
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | Average | Wed 4th Oct 2023 | ||||
Overhanging Fist crack- maybe if you have men hands, more like overhanging offwidth start. Didn’t even like the traverse around the corner or the crack to the top that much which were straightforward compared to start.
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5.10c |
★★ Brain Tweezers
![]() | 20m, 5 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 4th Oct 2023 | ||||
Great route, 5.10 c in guidebook. Cool mono and lots of good moves
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5.10b |
★★★ Burning Calves
![]() | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Oct 2023 | ||||
Nice route, found near the start hardest, but probably height related due to steeper feet. The “ crux” was ok.
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5.10b |
★★★ Rod Sterling Crack
![]() | 23m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Fri 6th Oct 2023 | ||||
Liked the finishing finger crack. Did not like move to arete.
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5.11d |
★★★ Disturbance
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Fri 6th Oct 2023 | ||||
Two goes, on lead, then top rope. Very cruxy, major issue getting to first decentpod with the negative 9 cm ape factor my right arm has. Not sure it’s worth further time. Nice line though.
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5.10a |
★ Biohazard
![]() | 34m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sat 7th Oct 2023 | ||||
No one seems to do the end any more, full of cobwebs
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5.9 |
★★ Smooth Operator
![]() | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sat 7th Oct 2023 | ||||
Ha ha, “ the fist crack” at the start was hard for me, ended up having to layback it to do it clean at some hard grade after trying all sorts of crazy moves. The rest of the route is great.
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5.11b ~5.11c |
★★ Smore Energy
![]() | 26m | New River Gorge | Sat 7th Oct 2023 | |||||
Nice climb, 4 distinct sections with hands free rests. 11c on Mountain project and in guide book.
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5.11d |
★★ Slab-O-Meat
![]() | 34m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
We were meant to be having an easier day but got bored. Then it rained. Figured out a functional sequence to third bolt, then it’s all much easier. Hopefully will get back
|
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5.9 |
★★ Fool Effect
![]() | 38m, 13 | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Nice and long, a pain to descend.
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5.9 |
★★ The Upheaval
![]() | 26m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Nice route, not as good as brolga etc though
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5.10b |
★★ ...With A Little Help From My Friends
![]() | 23m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | ||||
Really liked this one despite the easy middle
|
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5.8 |
★ Totally-clipse
![]() | 23m, 5 | New River Gorge | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | |||||
Thought a move on this was harder than either of the 5.9s to the left
|
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★ Rats Alley
![]() | 23m | New River Gorge | ★ Good | Sun 8th Oct 2023 | |||||
Nice enough, I clearly need fist jam practice- this one actually fitted my fists
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5.11d |
★★ Slab-O-Meat
![]() | 34m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Oct 2023 | ||||
Came back to do it, gave up my static beta and jumped after the crux traverse as it seemed more certain. Onsighted from 3rd bolt to end
|
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5.10b |
★★★ Party In My Mind
![]() | 27m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Oct 2023 | ||||
Some amazing holds and a long journey on mostly TCUs and some finger/ thin hand pieces. Gear sometimes spaced.
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5.10b |
★★ Autumn Fire
![]() | 21m | New River Gorge | ★★ Very Good | Wed 11th Oct 2023 | ||||
Much easier than smooth operator. Quite nice.
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