Routes as ice in World

A nice area located well away from the road in a ravine. The grading increases from WI2 on climber's left to WI4 on climber's right.

6000' FCA on May 7,2004.

First bolted line at Haffner. M7 in lean years when the ice doesn't hang over the roof. Good holds lead up a blunt arête, then launch into the 45 degree overhang and ice.

From the apparent gear-up spot at the base, climb up the wide set of rollers, opting for a line that suits your intents. A large platform at 2/3 height offers tree belays on the left, and frequently transforms into advanced base camps for parties that play on the Curtain. The climb continues up the ice, bypassing trees on the left and right as required.

This is the leftmost line of the curtain, featuring a few body lengths of steep ice. Even in the early season, the ice extends widely on the face. Climb the pillar below the 3m rock step at the left hand of the curtain. More ice lies beyond the ledge, on a small headwall on the left.

The best route on the cliff. Long, sustained, vertical ice in a deep chimney. (Rap rings with chain installed as of 2020)

Take the drainage to the left of Cascade Falls. Climb up ice steps to the top, where you may go either left or right.

Follow the climbers trail on the right of the gully to descend, one short rap is needed.

The left hand of the two obvious ice lines. Climb direct to a two bolt belay in the obvious cave (45m). Climb out of the cave left or right about 30m to the snow slope, to an ice screw belay before the last, somewhat easier 30m to a tree belay (final pitch not on topo). Abseil via belay stations with a v-thread close to the base if using a single rope.

Climb thin ice to the right of Moonlight. Ice thickens towards the top. A 60m rope will see an ice screw belay to the right of the obvious tree at the top of the ice visible from the base. A more comfortable belay is to be had with a 70m rope. Final 30m pitch up easier ice to a choice of tree belays (final pitch not on topo). Descend down moonlight to save v-threading, otherwise abseil of top tree anchor to tree at top of first pitch, then to v-thread in ice part way down the first pitch.

Now-a-days most consider the route out of shape, but in 2005 we found a classic line which doesn't resemble the original route. I could not figure out where the original window used to be. It was a great alpine ice outing.