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Denim Wall

  • Contexte de la cotation : AU
  • Photos : 6
  • Ascensions : 44
9

Saison

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Description

In the cave behind John's Pinnacle. Stays cool in the summer.

Emergency Location: Mount Arapiles, Bluffs Area

Limit. de l'accès hérité de Arapiles

Cultural heritage closures now apply to some parts of Arapiles. This advice continues to evolve and may not be fully reflected in this website; refer to Parks Victoria for details applicable at the time of your visit. https://www.parks.vic.gov.au/-/media/project/pv/main/parks/documents/management-plans/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park/mount-arapiles-tooan-state-park---aboriginal-cultural-heritage-protections---october-2020.pdf

Bird Nesting September-December Raptors usually nest on the following climbs in Spring : Cassandra, Eurydice, Harlequin Cracks, Revelations. Nesting usually finishes mid-December. There may or may not be signs in place at these times. Please keep 50m clear of these climbs if there appears to be nesting activity.

State Park - no dogs. No fires allowed Oct-Apr (inclusive).

Éthique hérité de Arapiles

Mount Arapiles is first and foremost a trad climbing area. The few sport climbs tend to be in the higher grades where no natural pro is available.

Bolting, particularly retro-bolting, is discouraged and should only be undertaken after extensive consultation with the local climbers, first ascensionists, etc. Inappropriately placed bolts have been chopped.

Do not chip the rock.

Look after the park.

  • Stick to the paths.

  • Don't disturb the wildlife.

  • Routes near peregrine falcon nesting sites are closed in the spring.

  • Minimise the impact of your camping (fuel stoves not fires, take your rubbish with you, etc).

Tags

Certains contenus ont été fournis sous licence de : © Cameron Roy (CC BY-SA 3.0 AU) © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Voies

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Cotation Voie

Start at the L end of Denim Wall.

  1. 15m (-) Up the unpleasant chimney roof, bridging at the lip.

  2. 30m (22) Up, then traverse R under roof, up Denim for 3m, then diagonally R to arete (beware loose block).

FA: Andrew Thomson & Greg Child, 1976

Sustained. Start 12m up L from the start of Denim, part way up Vixen but access via ledge. Traverse the wall to finish up See You Round.

FA: Scott Camps & Paul Johnston, 1988

"It will laugh at attempts to free it" - Keith Lockwood, Arapiles guidebook 1978. Freed by Kim in 1979 it didn't laugh for long but it still has plenty of chuckles at aspirants.

Louise Shepherd made a particularly impressive ascent in 1984 - she fell off the initial roof, lowered off then did it second shot, onsighting most of the route and placing the gear. Possibly the first female ascent at this grade in AU (she'd previously onsighted 26 (!) in Yosemite in 1981).

Start on the L side of the wall.

  1. 18m (26) Steep thin cracks and roof to ledge.

  2. 27m (22) A fantastic fingers corner crack. Despite what you might read elsewhere this pitch is not well protected at all.

FA: Chris Baxter, John Moore & Clive Parker (aid), 1968

FFA: Kim Carrigan & Eddy Ozols, 1979

Start 1.5m R of Denim. Up thin seam to traverse line, R and up to RB, diagonally R to 2nd RB, then trend L to 3rd RB (despite the unfortunate chipped hold, this is still the crux).

Berlin Calling (29*) is a linkup of Balance of Power into London Calling (Nathan Hoette Nov '04).

FA: Mark Moorhead, 1981

FFA: Nathan Hoette, 2004

Bolts are mostly rusty (still the case as at Apr 2023) and should not be trusted. Start 6-8m R of LC. Very bouldery past the first FH then continuous past 4 more FHs, then finish off to the right where Concise Exercise finishes. Lower off.

FA: "Fat Nick" Sutter, 1993

Given 31, but it's not that much harder then the original.

FA: Nathan Hoette

A very tough crux down low. Start just L of the south entrance to Ali Baba's Cave. Bulge then crack.

FA: Mark Moorhead & Jon Muir, 1981

Avoids the desperate crux of See You Round by starting to the right at the hole. Bridge up 5m and clip the bolt on the L. Swing L around the arete (wire and tiny cams) to a mega jug and then up and R, move back L to crack through bulge, and then R again to finish at chains. Big holds and very steep. Not really sure of the grade, just a guess. The rock and the moss on this are not of the best quality, be cautious on it!

FA: Douglas Hockly, 13 Déc 2015

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Selected Guidebooks plus Cacher

Auteur·e·s: Simon Mentz, Glenn Tempest

Date: 2016

ISBN: 9780987526427

This selected yet in depth guide, in its third edition in 2016, is a must for first timers or regulars to the "Pines". By Simon Mentz and Glenn Tempest. It features 1200 routes over 23 different areas as well as bouldering, history info on flora and fauna, plus heaps more.

Auteur·e·s: Gordon Poultney, Simon Carter

Date: 2013

ISBN: 9780987087461

444 of the best routes on the best stone on earth? Yes Please! Who has time for all those other wondering pitches anyway when Gordon Poultney and Simon Carter have picked out the classics and printed it in a pocket size handy guide with string attachment. You'll take it on the multipitches, you'll take it to read in the toilets, you'll take it everywhere!

Auteur·e·s: Lindorff, Goding & Hodgson

Date: 2011

ISBN: 9780646529387

Get ready to fully experience the rock climbing scene in Victoria with Sublime Climbs, a comprehensive guidebook authored by Kevin Lindorff, Josef Goding, and Jarrod Hodgson. This full-color, 380-page book covers the best climbing locations in the region, including Mt Arapiles, Mt Buffalo, and the Grampians. It features descriptions of over 700 routes, topographic maps, and breathtaking images. Whether you're a seasoned pro or new to the sport, Sublime Climbs has everything you need to make the most of your climbing experience in Victoria and experience all of it's classic routes.

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