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Routes as trad in Cambodia

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Showing all 35 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity Crag
Trad
5.10a Up the corner

The is a classic route to the top of No More Monks Rock. Start by climbing up the left-facing corner, continue up the slab to the top, you are sure to get onlookers and honks from passing traffic on route 6. No anchors and virtually nothing in the way of placement. Eventually this route will be bolted. - From Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Trad Chealea
A Trad Sihanoukville
B Trad Sihanoukville
C Trad Sihanoukville
5.9 Jugs

A short but juggy route. Watch out for bees in the monster jugs. Continue over the top for decent. No anchor and little available pro.

Trad Chealea
5.10b Holes

This route is somewhat covered in vines, but is a good route on this face of Broken Pot Rock. No anchors or bolts. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Trad Chealea
5.9 Creeper

Start just to the right of the line of bolts for Martha's Vineyard. Continue stragiht up from there following the light coloured rock. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Trad Chealea
5.10a Around the Corner

A short climb with a difficult to reach anchor at the top. - Taken from Ben Tipton's "Rock Climbing in Cambodia"

Trad Chealea
{AU} 19 Route 1-1
Trad 7m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 18 Route 1-2

To the right of 1-1. Shares anchor with 1-1.

Trad 7m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 21 Route 2-1

To the right of 1-2. Shares anchor with 2-2/2-3.

Trad 6m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 16 Route 2-2

To the right of 2-1. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-3.

Trad 6m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 15 Route 2-3

To the right of 2-2. Shares anchor with 2-1,2-2.

Trad 6m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 13 Route 3-1

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-2, 3-3.

Trad 8m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 15 Route 3-2

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-1, 3-3.

Trad 8m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 15 Route 3-3

To the right of the large boulder suspended overhead, on the side with the tree. Shares anchor with 3-1, 3-2.

Trad 8m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 14 Route 4

To the right of the large boulder suspended over head, opposite side from Route 3.

Trad 5m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 15 Route 5-1

To the right of Route 6. Shares an anchor with 5-2.

Trad 7m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 16 Route 5-2

To the right of Route 6. Shares an anchor with 5-1.

Trad 7m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 18 Route 6

To the left of route 5.

Trad 6m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 16 Route 7-2

Shares anchor with 7-1, 7-3.

Trad 18m Banteay Meanchay
{AU} 24 Route 7-3

Shares anchor with 7-1, 7-2.

Trad 18m Banteay Meanchay
5.10c Unnamed Trad route

(#7 on topo) No information known, location noted on Japanese climbers topo from Angkor Climbers Guidebook

Trad 10m Banteay Meanchay
5.7 Moon Walk

Not really a climb, but scramble up to access the anchor ledge for the sport climbs. Start in front of the cockpit, top the slab, can sling the horn for protection, and there is one bolt [unconfirmed] on the main cliff when you step over the gap.

Mixed trad 1 Banteay Meanchay
Firefly

Start in the small grass patch next to the owl barn, just south of the big white slab. There are two cave systems, the one on the right is firefly, the one on the left is dragonfly. Offwidth or layback most of the route. Low crux getting over the entrance to the firefly cave.

FA: Patrick Pujalt, 4 Jul 2023

Trad 11m Phnom Gong Kaeb
5.8 Dragonfly

Large offwidth (a very thin person could fit in at the bottom) in a dihedral position, with a flat slightly overhanging wall on the left. The face to the right is vertical until halfway up the climb where there is a foot sized ledge and the left wall breaks back from overhung to slab and the offwidth widens out to a chimney to a very nice sloped ledge one body height from the top. Its a sort of layback/offwidth body jamming/face crimps/chimney. Lot's of ways to approach this one.

Trad 12m Phnom Gong Kaeb
5.5 The "easy" access chimney

Honestly walking around would be a lot easier, but it's a fun little adventure to chimney straight up instead. Access chimney from the top of the white slab. There are big boulders wedged in space at intervals up the chimney which is what makes it comfortable to do without a rope.

Trad 10m Phnom Gong Kaeb
Mosquito

Short hand crack. 7 meters at most, but straight splitter. Haven't seen it up close yet, only from the top of Firefly.

TradProject Phnom Gong Kaeb
Cricket

Start in the hand crack to the right of firefly. Crack curves left halfway up to join firefly for the offwidth finish. No known attempts yet.

TradProject Phnom Gong Kaeb
Sunset roof left

Unknown length. Can be belayed from the ground or from the ledge inside the roof (which would shorten the route by 5 ish meters.) Flat green mossy face from the ground to the ledge. Thin crack in the dihedral to the roof. Decent looking hand crack out of the roof. Haven't see above it yet.

TradProject Phnom Kulen
Sunset roof right

Unknown height. Can be belayed from the ground or the ledge under the rood (that would remove 5ish meters). On the right side of the square where the ledge continues out of the square. Either dihedral face climb to the roof then hand? crack out, or climb the arete direcctly to the edge of the roof. Hand crack up from the roof.

TradProject Phnom Kulen
Sunset roof right arete

Same as Sunset roof right but climb the arrete to avoid the roof.

TradProject Phnom Kulen
Freedom from Java

Off the North side of the main prow (left when looking from the top toward the edge) there is a line that might go, sort of follows a banyan tree that has exploited the same weakness in the rock. Could sling the tree at points if pro becomes sparse. There is a big rock on top of the flat outlook portion of the cliff, if you wrap it it could be a suitabe anchor to project this climb. Not sure if the pro goes or if bolts will be involved.

TradProject 30m Phnom Kulen
Solid Maybe - open project

Beneath the extremely overhung roof that tops the cliff about 50-60m to the south-west of the main prow. Starts with a traverse right along a ledge to a hand crack that leads to a small roof, then another traverse left? or right? to a face climb top out. The headwall is a big question mark. Face climbing, maybe goes. looks liek there could be another crack up high but hard to see from the bottom.

TradProject 25m Phnom Kulen
Too leafy, for now - Open project

Length can vary depending if you start down in the pit, or from the lip of the pit. Maybe 5m longer. Looks o be a full continuous crack up a dihedral all the way from bottom to top. At least what we can see of it, needs some gardening. Needs big cams (unsure what size).

TradProject 25m Phnom Kulen

Showing all 35 routes.

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