Routes as sport in Kazakhstan

The first bolted route right of Shel s ptitsami.

P1: 6b, 23m, 10 bolts. P2: 7a, 25m, 13 bolts. Beware of potential ledge fall in the middle of this pitch.

Starts a few metres right of Sila bezmolviya.

P1: 6a, 27m, 19 bolts. P2: Hard start followed by nice corner. 6c, 25m, 12 bolts.

Steep corner and crack. Can be climbed on gear.

Interesting crux.

Ends on the ledge. Can be linked with Tigra.

Starts next to a small step which is at the base of a wide shallow chimney.

One or two hard moves to test your finger strength. For the grade, avoid the large pocket, and start on the right.

Stay right of the overlap/flake for the grade.

Follows the thin seam.

The chimney.

Start a few metres right of Mescalito and follow bolts to the open-book corner.

Shared anchors with Nadka

Fun moves through the overlap. There is a hollow-sounding block at the top which seems stable.

The best route of the grade. Easy crack start leads to pockets and then exposed climbing with safe falls.

6b+ if you climb to the left of the crack. 6a+ if you clomb in the crack. Seeps for some time after rain.

Starts from the ground, in a gulley/chimney between two ledges. Descent not possible with a 50m rope unless you stop on the Navsikaya ledge.

The grade is questionable.

1. 6b, 9 bolts,

2. 7a+, 12 bolts,

3. 6c, 14 bolts,

4. 7a+, 15 bolts,

5. 6a, 10 bolts,

6. 6b, 15 bolts,

7. 5a, 10 bolts

The classic of the sector. Long and mostly hard. There are some drilled holds and old bolts (which are very solid).

Starts on the slab right of the wide corner, which is right of Lomovaya shel. Old bolts were replaced in October 2020.

1. Slab to vertical wall. 7+/b, 25m, 9 bolts

2. 7b, 25m, 10 bolts.

1. Climb the slab. 6c, 30m, 10 bolts

2. Vertical wall and slabs 7a/+, 25m, 9 bolts.

Excellent climbing on small crimps.

Ends on the ledge. Often linked with Sova.

Clip the first two draws by walking up the ledge a little.

The easiest route in the crag with bolts quite far apart thus, requires twin ropes for abseil.

1. 6a+, 10 bolt (1st bolt is located approx. 7 m above ground)

2. 5b, 8 bolts,

3. 6a+, 13 bolts,

4. 6a, 14 bolts,

5. 6a+, 13 bolts

6. 5b, not bolted.

The overhanging crack feature just right of Sinyaya Gusenitsa.

Start below the wide chimney/off-width and veer left after the third bolt.

1. 6a, 7 bolts,

2. 6c, 9 bolts

Starts on the ledge right of Howl.

The corner. First bolts are right of the corner.

Starts on the ledge.

Starts on the ledge.

Sustained climbing on nice pockets and crimps.

Starts under the left side of the ledge.

1. 6a+, 7 bolts,

2. 7a, 9 bolts

Starts on the ledge right of Howl.

Climb the overhanging corner and then move to the right. Probably a sandbag? The first bolt is difficult to clip, so consider climbing to the big ledge on the left to clip it before starting. Originally graded 6c!

Just left of Razminka.

Starts on the ledge. The chimney above Kroshka Ru.

1. 6b+, 14 bolts,

2. 5b, 4 bolts,

3. 6a+, 7 bolts,

4. 6b+, 8 bolts,

5. 7a, 9 bolts,

6. 7a, 10 bolts.

5b if you stop at the first anchor.

The rooflet is the crux.

Steep start followed by delicate slab.

1. 5с, 7 bolts,

2. 6b+, 10 bolts

Starts on the ledge.

Starts just above a boulder about 10-15m right of Cherez karniz. Climb right of the bolts for 6c, left for 6b.

The wide chimney/off-width. Shared start with Dina

5c if you stop at the first set of anchors (after 8 bolts).

Starts just right of Gnyozda, near the right end of the imposing roof.

P1: 6a+ 30m, 14 bolts. Access pitch P2: Climb the face and traverse right to the slab to avoid the roof. 7c+, 20m, 14 bolts.

Starts in the dihedral right of Skazki o sile.

P1: Climb Dihedral to ledge (use a long draw on the first bolt). 6b+, 25m 11 bolts. P2: Continue to top. 6b, 20m, 11 bolts.

Start is to the right of the bolts, beneath obvious small flake. Traverse to the first bolt and then continue up to the right. Spotter or stick clip is a very good idea for the first bolt. The direct start has also been climbed.

Starts on the ledge. Wise to clip the second bolt from the ground if you can.

Sustained crux on crimps followed by easier climbing to the top.

Starts just right of Poezd. Slippery corner to overlap followed by easier climbing.

1. 5c, 6 bolts

2. 6c+, 10 bolts

7b+ if climbed along the bolts, 7a if you use the arete on the left.

8а if you completely eliminate arête on the left and climb on the face without crossing over to neighboring 7a.

Interesting climbing in the corner.

Corner/chimney.

Starts on the ledge.

Easy climbing up a crack followed by a pull over the bulge and a delicate face at the top. Some old, but solid bolts.