Routes as trad in The Lower Lump

Found just right/uphill of Master Wong, this short and low-angle climb is mostly bolted. Bring one or two hand-sized pieces for the nice splitter just below the anchor.

Climb rampy jugs with big feet up the middle of a triangular face. Moving right clip a bolt and place a finger size cam in a horizontal cracked feature. Break soft left on face moves past two bolts to a pedestal belay for Racer-X/Metal/Beetle Bailey.

A tremendous psychological warm-up for Racer-X as it compares in physical difficulty, but is much more generous with protection. Initially viewed as a 2nd and slightly harder/longer pitch to Behind the Tombstone, it also became the 2nd pitch of one of Index’s best moderate multi-pitches, Ride The Lightning.

From the top of “Behind the Tombstone”, Follow the ramp with natural gear a few feet until you see a bolt above in a “circular cutout”. Climb into the cutout and then onto the slab. Climb past the intermediate anchor (the start of p3 of Ride The Lightning) and another bolt. Move right to the white corner, padding up fun knobs for feet and crimps in the roof to the anchor for the 5.10a/b finish. The route uses a series of expanding flake systems that are safe for climbing but highly suspect for gear.

The anchor is shared with “Beetle Bailey P2” and “Larry’s Lycra” and is an easy access to set up a TR for those routes.

Inspiring roofs, slabs, traverses and exposure rolled into four very different moderate pitches, everything to test the new 5.10 leader.

P1 Climb “Behind the Tomb Stone. 5.9

P2 “Rope Eating Mice” Bolts and a handful of finger-to-tight hand-size gear placements. some face moves to start into expanding flakes and a high crux. Stop at the first set of anchors NOT the high set of rap rings. 10a/b

P3 “ From the lower belay, make an easy traverse right, up a ramp with optional gear, aiming for an obvious low bolt on an exposed Arete (5.6) At the bolt match low then make an exposed karate kick to good feet and slap out right to a jug. Follow bolts up exposed terrain minding your feet with a few reachy moves. 10c

P4 This pitch can be seen from the pullout by the river. It’s a fantastic clip-up on slabby mantles, high steps and a memorable foot traverse with extraordinary views of Mt Index and the river singing in the background. 10a