Routes as sport in Jan Smuts Main Wall

This is the first route on the left. Climb straight up, move left behind a bush and then continue up to the chains.

Some history: Irene was the name of Jan Smuts' farm.

The next line is sustained at the grade. Don’t wimp out, start to the right of the first bolt. It can be climbed with a number of variations: left of the bolts is balancy - over the bolts is easiest and to the right of the bolts is the most tiring). Although tiring for the grade, each clip is made from a solid stance so it is a good lead. It is unnecessary (and probably unwise) to do a full layback off the small flake at the top.

Some history: Slim Jannie was one of Jan Smuts' nick names.

This is the next route under the overhang. Start up at the bolts and climb straight up to the overhang. At the overhang work higher on the left (easier for the taller people) to latch onto a large spike, before traversing out right under the overhang (crux) and climbing up to the exit. This is a good sustained route at the grade. There is an extra bolt at the top for protection while setting up a top rope.

Some history: Oubaas was one of Jan Smuts' nick names.

This route, just to the right of the start of 'Oubaas' uses the last bolt and exit chains of 'Oubaas' but takes the direct line through the overhang.

To the right of the 'Oubaas' line. Currently starting from the main stump of a tree, or just left of the stump. The line goes up to the overhang. At the overhang rail right on fine footholds to exit. It is easiest to clip the top bolts after exiting. There are two bolts on the last clip. The right hand (higher) one didn’t tighten up and is a bit loose, but probably safe.

Start as for Lost Airport then follow the deviation of bolts to the right where the route goes through the obvious overhang before topping out.

Some history: Jan Smuts is credited as one of the founders of the R.A.F.

The route has glue in bolts and follows a line through the overhang between Lost Airport and Amajuba.

This is the second last line on the right of the first face before the large overhang at the bottom. The route tends right to a large ledge. At the ledge the route starts slightly right and goes straight up. The crux is after the ledge and the lead is quite bold and sustained, hence the name 'because I expected quite a battle'.

The chains are over the top on the most solid rock available, so if you are top roping, or want to lower off, take a long sling to extend over the edge. It is safe and easy to retrieve the gear from the top afterwards.

This is the direct line for 'Amajuba' and was only possible once most of the dodgy looking large overhang to the right of the 'Amajuba' start fell down the mountainside. Take the line of bolts through the overhang to the right of the “Amajuba” start. From the ledge, finish up 'Amajuba'. A nice sustained line. You will need a sling for the top as noted for 'Amajuba'.