Routes as trad in Target Buttress

At the extreme left end of the cliff a smooth wall ends in a corner crack. Climb this to a ledge at 20'. Continue up using the wall on the right to gain the crack above. Follow to top.

Historic route number: 57

This route climbs the wide chimney to the right of 'Human Racing'.

Historic route number: 58

The face of the buttress to the right of the last route is split by a prominent crack. Climb up to the chockstone and surmount this to a ledge. Continue up the crack at the back using the left wall. The wide crack above is gained by an awkward step left, and followed to the top.

Historic route number: 59

Start just to the right of 'Baboon' at obvious groove. Climb groove to bulging wall, and surmount bulge left of bolt. Step left and up to tree. Move right onto arete and follow to top.

Historic route number: 60

Climb the short corner right of 'Making Movies', into the gully above. Move up the left wall to the base of the steep crack above. Climb the crack past the tree and exit left at the top.

Historic route number: 61

Some nice climbing but it leads nowhere. Quite strenuous with excellent protection. The corner to the right of 'Making Movies' has a fig tree almost at the top. Climb the chimney until an awkward step right can be made. Move right on underclings to a slanting leftwards crack, and up this (crux), to finish.

Historic route number: 62

A good sustained climb. Take five quick-draws. To the right of 'Dead Man Walking' there is a large obvious grey fig tree. Start behind this. Climb the easy crack for 10' and at a point 4' below the bush-stump step awkwardly left onto the steep face. Climb past bolt and up to a second bolt. Move up and step left to better holds. Take wall above directly over two bolts to easier ground which leads to short steep bulge. Finish directly above bolt.

Historic route number: 62b

This fine technical route climbs the middle of the separated buttress left of 'World Gone Wrong'. There is a prominent ledge with big blocks on its left end at 20', on which the first ascent party saw a leopard! Take four quick-draws and a medium-sized stopper for top crack. Climb the easy grey wall to ledge, and make an awkward move below bolt onto wall. More easily up leftwards to second bolt. The crux is the steep wall on the right of this bolt. Ignore arete and flake above, and step out right beneath bolt. Climb directly to third bolt. Step right and up to fourth bolt. Continue up rightwards to small ledge on arete which is followed to top.

Historic route number: 63

Start immediately right of 'Cat People', and climb arete to big ledge beneath main wall. Traverse right along ledge across a white smear, and move around the corner to chimney. Move up and cross over to the left to the foot of a grey wall split by a narrow crack. Climb the crack and continue past a small tree to the top.

Historic route number: 63a

Sustained and slightly devious! Take four quick-draws. The main buttress is split by the prominent cave crack and uninteresting route 'Caving'. 'World Gone Wrong' goes up the front of the left buttress past four bolts. Climb up to first bolt then move up leftwards to the second bolt. Traverse right and approach third bolt from below. Move straight up and slightly left to top.

Historic route number: 64

Climb the deep obvious cave crack in the centre of the main buttress. Exit leftwards.

Historic route number: 65

This fine route climbs what is probably Frog's biggest cliff. Take six quick-draws. lt is the face of the buttress right of 'Caving'. Start by ascending the rounded boulder at the base of the chimney. Make a wild move right below the first bolt to gain the detached flake. Up this, then the wall above past a second bolt to the start of obvious crack. Ignore this and step left, continuing leftwards up the wall past four bolts to the top.

Historic route number: 66

This is the obvious crack/chimney immediately left of 'Congo'. Entertaining. Up crack into chimney then bowel up to the top.

Historic route number: 66a

Start as for 'Shock The Monkey'. Ascend this route past first two bolts to crack. Finish easily up this.

Historic route number: 67

Much better than it looks. This route climbs the groove/ corner in the middle of the bay to the right of the big buttress of the previous routes. Start directly below groove. Climb wall to start of groove, then straight up past two bolts to small roof. Pass this and climb crack above to top.

Historic route number: 68

This excellent route goes up the steep pillar just left of 'Naked Edge'. Hard moves up past bolt. Continue up to horizontal crack, then up red wall past bolt to crux moves through overhang.

Historic route number: 69

One of the first classics at Frog, which has aged gracefully. This route takes the left edge of the cliff on the right of the 'Congo' bay. Start below a steep dark wall, which is climbed up slightly rightwards, then back left to a prominent small fig tree at 25'. Up through the tree onto the wall above, and climb up leftwards to a point below a bolt. Move up leftwards (crux) to the 'edge', which is followed to the top.

Historic route number: 70

The prominent steep crack/chimney line on wall right of 'Naked Edge'. Move up easily for 20' then wide step left to main crackline. Climb to overhang and surmount this into main wide crack. Climb this directly to top. A great, well protected traditional route with no bolts.

Historic route number: 70b

It's a rare occurrence when an experienced sport climber delivers a bold traditional climb. Start in the middle of yellow wall 15' left of 'Chirac The Monster', below large ledge sloping up and left. Up to undercling and on to small finger crack. Up and left into bowl, which is exited at top to easier ground.

Historic route number: 70c

Left of 'Quisling' there is a yellow wall with an arch which rises up rightwards. Start at right side of yellow wall below obvious overhanging blocks at 20'. Climb up past two bolts, then step right and move up over blocks to ledge. Step left and straight up to belay tree.

Historic route number: 70d

At the right end of the crag are two open grooves. This route takes the left of these. Climb past the tree and continue to the top.

Historic route number: 71

This route climbs the square-cut groove to the right of 'Quisling'.

Historic route number: 72