Showing all 17 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
24 | ★★★ Stalagmite Addiction
Start standing on stalagmite and head up following bolts on layaway's and slopers. Move into heel hook rest under small roof. At 4th BR continue straight up to final overlap and onto headwall. FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2014 FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2014 FFA: Justin Taylor (direct finish), 25 Aug 2014 | 15m, 6 | |||
26 | ★★ One Hold, One Quest
Climb all of Stalagmite Addiction to the holds above its chain and continue left across the technical hanging slab to a good rest. Take first roof weakness via a dynamic crux out to lip, then up short headwall to the anchor. 10 bolts to the chain. Be sure to extend the final draw past the lip and skip clipping the Addiction chain. FA: Steve Kelly, 20 Dec 2014 | 25m, 10 | |||
26 | ★★ The Silk Road
Climb 'Stalagmite Addiction' to the last bolt & traverse left (as for Top Shelf). Continue past The Art to Trade Route anchor. Keep traversing left finishing up Shelf Life. 70+ moves. Best to employ two belayers and two ropes, and drop a line at Trade Route rest. Also requires a variety of clips to be skipped to minimise rope drag. Previously done in 3 sections by Matt who provided the vision, now linked in one by Dan, who provided the endurance. FFA: Daniel Toone, 30 Apr 2022 | 40m, 22 | |||
19 | ★★ Permanently Moist Thing (PMT)
Established in wet conditions. Name changed due to consensus. Crux just after 2nd bolt leading to 3rd then great 3D corner climbing to anchor. To clean: Best have someone follow via TR. Start often wet. FA: Redanon, 14 Oct 2023 | 15m | |||
26 | ★★★ Lust
A masterpiece bolted by Ross Meffin and established by Sharik in '99. Up easy wall to roof, then big move to gain horizontal. Traverse left to slopers then cut back right to nose and tricky mantle. A good rest is followed then straight up past big move from crimps to a final horizontal. Don't blow the finish! FA: Sharik Walker, 1999 | 20m, 8 | |||
29 | ★★★ Greed
The obvious continuation of Lust that will have you burning for days. As for Lust to its final bolt then punch left to the hanging arete and blast up the outrageously steep headwall, don't drop the mantle! Set: Redanon FA: Rob Watson, 16 Aug 2023 | 25m, 11 | |||
27 | ★★★ ENVY
Climb Lost to its last draw. Then traverse left into the traverse crux then through to the chains of greed. FA: Dan millar, 21 Apr | 11 | |||
24 | ★★★ Lost
Follows the rib and crack feature right of Lust. Starts 4m left of Blades of Glory. Up slab, then left to good stance on dark block. Move left to base of prominent white rib feature and follow this to the top of the pod. Shift right into corner and up to orange roof. Move left into final crack which joins Lust at its final resting jug (3 moves from its finish). FA: Redanon, 7 Mar 2021 | 20m, 8 | |||
21 | ★★★ Blades Of Glory
The route just left of 'Battery Acid' (previously known as Zombie Pash). Climb up face until first overhang section. Climb through overhang on blades until bridging becomes possible. Pull onto right face level with a large pinch. Climb diagonally right around arete and onto face & finish at chains on 'Battery Acid'. Watch the rope drag on the arete. FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012 FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012 | 26m, 9 | |||
25 | ★★ Battery Acid
10 metres left of the corner at the RH end of the cliff starting 1m right of the narrow grey streak. Belay safely (route is still cleaning up) from the single bolt 3m left of the start. Easily to major ledge then boldly upward through heavily sculptured overhangs aiming for the short bottomless left facing corner. Delicately through roof to gain the head wall. FA: Matthew Broadbent & Michael Hillan, 2011 FFA: Matthew Broadbent, 2011 | 23m, 9 | |||
22 | ★★ The Hat
Start on log lying on the ground, climb past first bolt to the terrace. Head diagonally right up into central weakness of the cliff. Climb into chimney into good lay away. Head right out onto face/head wall (thin crimps) up through another 3 bolts then to chains. Belay note: Route is still cleaning up. Belay from underneath the rooflet to the right of the starting bolt in case of loose rock. FFA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012 FA: Michael Hillan & Matthew Broadbent, 2012 | 25m, 8 | |||
24 | ★★ Kubanka
A direct start to ‘The Hat’. From ground level, stick clip bolt 5m left of Around the Horn then climb 'the warm up wall' to ledge. Wander up to 2nd bolt (shared with ‘Any Colour You Like’), then diagonally left to jug under roof crack. Clip 3rd BR, then get physical through the bulge passing a 4th BR on your right. At the 5th, move straight up over the small rooflet and join The Hat at the guano stained jug in the corner alcove. Finish as for the last 3 bolts of this route. FA: Redanon, 8 Nov 2017 | 25m, 8 | |||
27 | ★★★ Top Shelf Material
Take One Hold One Quest but exit the roof via The Art of Seeing, finishing as for that route. FA: 23 Jun 2019 | 30m, 12 | |||
29 | ★★★ Rainbow Serpent
The snake shaped line linking ‘Top Shelf Material’ into ‘Emphysema’ finish. Climb TSM past it’s toilet bowl crux, then traverse left under roof to finish on ‘Emphysema’ crux to chains. 70+ moves through face, slabs, roofs and cut loose crux’s over 14 bolts. Extend last draw of Stalagmite and all slab traverse bolts. Unclip final 2 draw as your being lowered off to minimise drag when pulling the rope. FA: Daniel Toone, 10 Mar 2021 | 30m, 14 | |||
26 | ★★★ Conquest
The extension to One Hold, One Quest. From the chain of One Hold, reach left for a small pinch, then up to a jug. Span left and finish as for The Art at the top chain. FA: 21 Aug 2021 | 30m, 13 | |||
25 | ★★ Addicted to Lust
Stalagmite Addiction to beyond its crux, then right above its 5th bolt into the corner, then diagonally up and right into Lust and finish as for that route. It is recommended to now clip the anchor of SCT with an extension prior to joining Lust. FA: Steve Kelly, 5 Sep 2015 | 22m, 8 | |||
19 | ★★ Bladerunner
Alternative start to 'Blades' following the start of Lost then up the corner flakeline to join Blades of Glory just before its crux. Finish as for that. FA: Jordan Goodchild, 28 Mar 2021 FA: 28 Mar 2021 | 20m |
Showing all 17 routes.