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Routes as trad in Killary Upper Crags

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Showing all 13 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
D 13. Jungle Train

Plenty of variation on the slabby grooves to right of muddy gully.

Trad 14m
14. Pick Pocket

Follow quartz vein/ groove to rock spike, from top of spike, step right onto sloping ledge and water worn cracks. Follow cracks to top, looking for the high finger pocket

Trad 13m
VS 4c 15. Fingerlicker

Start 1-2 meter right of Pick Pocket, move easily to base of steep finger crack, make powerful moves up crack line and finish either directly from top recess or step left onto finish of pick pocket.

Trad 12m
E2 5b 16. Wonder Wall

2-3meters right of fingerlicker, a hard direct start leads to faint cracks leading to overhang, a big reach through to good holds to finish.

Trad 12m
VS 4c 17. Teenage Wasteland

Start in center of wall below left-right overhang. Straight up to overhang, making a tricky then delicate move trending up and rightwards to upper slab.

Trad 12m
E2 5c 18. Jelly Legs

1-2 meters left of groovy baby, straight up pocketed wall, passing shallow grooves to top.

FA: Barry Smith, Carl Maddox 1999 & Carl Maddox

Trad 11m
VS 4b 19. Groovy Baby

Climb into the groove (the right side of the wall, has a deceptive looking blocky groove), using a double layback, follow groove to top, a small wire and boggy landing protect the start

Trad 10m
HS 4b 20. HNC Arete

Start 1.5, meters right of Groovy baby, follow faint arete and cleaned groove to top, spaced but good protection when found.

Trad 10m
HS 4b 21. Strangely Aroused

Start 1-2 meters right of HNC Arete. Climb to blocky ledge below steep thin crack, climb crack making an awkward layback to gain sloping ledge, continue straight up to finish.

Trad 14m
VD 22. Sin E

Start a few meters right of Slightly aroused, at a large boulder. Climb onto boulder using large off-width crack (boulder start) to gain slabby cracks running L/R. Follow cracks easily to finish.

Trad 16m
VD 23. Sasta

Another bouldering start 2-3 meters right of Sin E. Bouldering start to easier finish.

Trad 15m
S 4a 11. Donegal Redneck

Follow the cleaned corner, 3 meters left of 'Naked Lady'. Climb the corner direct, short crux at mid-height

Trad 10m
S 4b 12. Naked lady

The obvious corner left of the overhanging bouldering area. A steep bouldering style start leads to a cracked corner with slabs to the left. Go straight up corner, using helpful hold on the slabs

Trad 10m

Showing all 13 routes.

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