Help

Mt. Shuksan

  • Grade context: US
  • Photos: 5
  • Ascents: 4

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
N
D

Summary

A stunning pyramid peak offering a variety of routes, bomber rock and incredible views of the North Cascades.

Access issues

A Permit is required to camp in the park. You can submit an application in the first quarter of the year. Alternatively, one or two permits are supplied each day on a first come first serve basis. It is recommended to arrive as the ranger station opens if you wish to acquire one.

A Forest Pass is required for your car to park at the trail heads. These can be purchased from machines within the park boundaries.

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit Convert grades
Grade Route

An aesthetic alternative to the standard gully used to reach the summit. On a clear day you have uninterrupted views of Mt Baker through to Rainier. The rock is bomber and the location incredible.

Gain the ridge at the obvious notch. Solo for as long as your whole party feels comfortable and then rope up to protect the upper pitches. Can be done in 1-8 Pitches depending on your methods. Some scrambling between belay platforms helps to reduce rope drag and the number of pitches required.

Rappel the gulley to skiers right of the ridge. This is the standard climb and is often solo'd at class 4 so be wary of sending loose rocks down. Twin 30m ropes are fine.

Plenty of natural pro, BD #0.5 to #2 to zipper it up. Glacier gear for the approach via Fisher Chimneys (III) or Sulphide glacier (II).

Car to car in a day is possible if you are unable to get a camping pass. However, be wary of down climbing the Chimney's at night.

This is an absolute classic in the region!

FA: Fred Beckey, Jack Schwabland & Bill Granston, 1945

Information needed

This crag does not have a description. Can you share a summary introduction to this crag?

If you can help provide a better quality resource for the climbing community then please click 'edit this crag' button near the top of the page.

Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Jim Nelson, Tom Sjolseth and David Whitelaw

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781680510461

Mountaineers Books:
Select Routes in Washington State. Featuring more than 100 climbing routes across more than 70 peaks, Classic Cascade Climbs compiles renowned alpine routes, challenging trad climbs, and a handful of sport, ice and crag options.
  • To determine if it was a classic, each route was judged on the following criteria: overall quality, popularity, accessibility, style and historical importance
  • Climbing beta includes peak and prominence elevations and type of rock, as well as grade, approach, route and descent descriptions
  • Detailed photo-based route overlays and topo maps help you plan your approach
  • Includes pitch-by-pitch details, estimated time, recommended equipment, selected history (including first ascents), required permits and special considerations

Author(s): Jeff Smoot

Date: 2021

ISBN: 9781493056439

FalconGuides:
From off-trail summit hikes and scrambles to multi-pitch alpine rock and high volcano climbs, Climbing Washington's Mountains includes detailed, easy-to-follow directions for 100 classic routes.
  • Fully revised and updated, this book is an accurate, user-friendly guide with easy-to-follow route descriptions and drawings
  • Details 100 classic routes, including Washington's most visible, historically significant and interesting mountains with summits over 5,000 ft.
  • Blending all types of climbing at all levels of difficulty, this guide is suitable for beginning scramblers, alpine rock climbers and more experienced climbers

Accommodations nearby more Hide

Share this

Photos Browse all photos

Upload a photo of area

Thu 4 May
Check out what is happening in Mt. Shuksan.

Get a detailed insight with a timeline showing

  • Ticks by climbers like you
  • Discussions of the community
  • Updates to the index by our users
  • and many more things.

Login to see the timeline!

Deutsch English Español Français Italiano 한국어 Português 中文