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Mythology Sector

  • Grade context: SA
  • Ascents: 9
9
SA

Seasonality

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Description

This sector runs from the start of the lower tier crag once passing 'The Library' or finishing the descent of the gully. This means it runs all the way under the 'Corruption Crags' and along to the Mini Godno sector (small 30 degree face with rolling sloping jug rails. Past this (further left along the crag) is a bushwhack followed by The 'Hell Yeah Sector' that starts with a massive slab beginner section.

Access issues inherited from The Mayhem Crags

Climbing Permits Wonderland. The Wonderland crags are spread over multiple private land parcels including MCSA, Mahem and Tranquilitas. The Mountain Club of South Africa has negotiated for all climbers to have access to these properties via a climbing permit. Permits will be offered at discounted rates to members of the MCSA or guests at Tranquilitas/Mayhem. Following are the permit types and costs:

Day permits R60. Day permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R30

Weekend permits R100. Weekend permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas members R50

Month permits R600. Month permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R300

Annual permits R1600. Annual permits for Mountain Club of South Africa / Tranquilitas R1200

By purchasing a permit you agree to the Conditions & Waiver Free parking to permit holders at Tranquilitas reception only and in demarcated spaces. Permits will be mandatory and people found without one will be treated as trespassers. Permits can be purchased from Tranquilitas reception via SnapScan or Zapper. For annual permits e-mail book@tranquilitas.com.

Orubeni farm has graciously granted access on the basis that climbers absolutely stick to the following rules: - ONLY WALK IN BY THE APPROVED ROUTE - KEEP DOGS ON A LEAD AS THERE ARE ANIMALS ON THE FARM - NO FIRES EVER - NO LITTER, INCLUDING CIGARETTE BUTTS AND TOILET PAPER - DO NOT WALK IN VIEW OF THE FARMHOUSE – DO NOT WALK OUT AFTER DARK…YOU MAY BE CONFUSED FOR A THIEF AND SHOT (THIS IS A WORKING FARM)

Approach

This sector runs from the start of the lower tier crag once passing 'The Library' or finishing the descent of the gully. This means it runs all the way under the 'Corruption Crags' and along to the Mini Godno sector (small 30 degree face with rolling sloping jug rails.

Routes

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The sweet fun route on the left arete of the "mini godno".Bolts kindly sponsored by the MCSA

FA: Tim Slab, Joshua McNally & Evan Margetts

[trad, A] The leftmost line on the "mini Godno" wall. A 30 degree wall of rounded jug rail madness. Shares a starting platform with the indirect start of 'Tartarus' and potentially a line left of the arête. Starts in the large open book and rails out left to the jug on the corner following some trixyness and then big holds, bomber placements and crazy pump to make for a soon to be classic.. Shares anchors with 'Tartarus' and 'Elysium'.

FA: Alex Bester, Oct 2016

[trad, A] On the mini Godno wall. The indirect start starts in the same open book as 'Valhalla' and rails out right. Pumpy powerful moves with bomber gear before it all goes down:D Mind blowing.

FA: Ebert Nel, Oct 2016

[N, A] On the mini Godno wall. The direct start of 'Tartarus', starting on the ledge right of the tree in between the two open book cracks. Starts as for 'Elysium' and busts straight up instead of heading right into the 'Elysium' open book. Powerful move into an undercling crack, with powerful big moves in between big holds that follow. Amazing clean overhanging fun.

FA: Ebert Nel, Oct 2016

[N, A] Starts on the ledge to the right of the tree. Busts over big blocks and then right into a tiny open book, followed by big sidepulls allowing for bomber gear placements before the pumpy jughauling madness and a pocket designed perfectly for a bomber red cam before facing the top mantle madness. A great thanks to the geckos that gave up their home. So much fun.

FA: Alebert Supertramp, 2016

This line is a visual replica of the Blade Runner line in Mayhem. It's roughly 50m left(closer to deck) from the Mini Godno and directly left of 'Evan and Goliath'. Bouldery crimpy start traversing right into juggy, balancy crack and arête climbing.

Set: Ebert Nel, Apr 2018

FA: Ebert Nel, Sep 2018

Overhanging classic crimpy face with a full body action pact power endurance sequence. Right of 'Sisyphus'

Set: Evan Margetts, Apr 2018

FA: Evan Margetts, Sep 2018

This route was bolted because of the obvious triangular feature protruding from the rock. Not the usual Boven style. Unique puzzling phenomenon. Not for the conservatives.

Set: Ebert Nel, Apr 2018

FA: Evan Margetts, Sep 2018

Starts on a stack a few metres above the path. An unforgettable sequence of majestic mayhem passing a unique off width, visible from below, leading to a beautiful head wall of pure bliss.

Set: Ebert Nel

FA: Nathan Michlo, 2018

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Wed 21 Jun
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