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Above the Practice Wall

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Description

These are a set of routes that start from the wide treed ledge above the "Practice Wall".

Many of the climbs from here start up the first pitch of "Pete's Farewell" and then branch from there, or from various places along the traverse pitch.

Approach

Take the right branch of the approach trail, then continue along the base of the cliff across the base of the Practice Wall, at the end where the ground gets damp, turn left, and scramble up and onto the ledge above the practice wall.

Routes

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Grade Route

Ends at belay 2 of "Pete's Farewell".

Ends at the traverse on "The El", not really a complete route in and of itself.

This "route" is more of a direct start to the routes in the "Above the Practice Wall Area" of Pitchoff. It starts in the same spot that Pete's Farewell does, but essentially goes left instead of right and ends up spitting you out right around the middle of the traverse line of the second pitch of every climb in this area. From there you can link it up to whatever your heart desires. In more detail, you start by scrambling on to the first big ledge in the first pitch of Pete's Farewell. From here, break left into a series of left rising, right facing corners. Work up to and overhang which you clear on the far left side. Find and climb up the gently left rising crack which eventually puts out on the traverse line.

  1. 5.2 G. 40ft. Same as first pitch of "Pete's Farewell".

  2. 5.7 G. 60ft. Traverse left, then more left, then still more left, until below a vertical crack.

  3. 5.8 G. 80ft. Climb up the vertical crack then up corner to top.

FA: Grant Calder & John Wald

FA: Pete Gibb & Dave Gilyeat

The next 5 climbs all start somewhere along the traverse section of "Pete's Farewell", all branching upwards while Pete's continues to traverse.

Starts at the P2 belay for "Pete's Farewell". Walk a short bit left from the belay, then head up to a horizontal with a bolt above it. Up this face, then crack above it.

Start at the pitch 2 belay for "Pete's Farewell". Looking up there is an obvious bolt... climb the face and flake past the bolt to a hand-crack to the top.

From the P1 belay for "Pete's Farewell", follow the traverse until it starts to rise. At this point climb up the right-facing corner to a thin crack and upwards zig-zagging left, then right, at horizontals.

From the P1 belay for "Pete's Farewell", only traverse left a few feet, then go up the face to a finger-crack, and follow discontinuous cracks to the top.

From the P1 belay of "Pete's Farewell", go directly up from the belay to find a hand crack that parallels the big corner a bit left of it. Follow this to anchors.

1 5.6 G 80ft
2 5.5 G 60ft
3 5.2 G 60ft

The following 4 routes follow "Pete's Farewell"/'Great Chimney" until the ledge that is at the base of the chimney, then branch off rightwards from there.

(finishes with P2 of "Brrright Star")

(finishes with P2 of "Brrright Star")

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Tim Kemple

Date: 2018

ISBN: 9781938393303

From the granite blocks of Lincoln Woods, Rhode Island, to the schist of Smugglers' Notch, Vermont, you're bound to find your next problem in the New England Bouldering guidebook.

  • Comprehensive, revised 3rd edition features more than 1,200 boulder problems at some of the best bouldering areas throughout New England
  • Detailed maps help you find your next bouldering challenge with ease

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Mon 22 May
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