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Severní plotnová věž

  • Grade context: SX
  • Ascents: 3
  • Aka: Nördlicher Plattleitenturm

Seasonality

J
F
M
A
M
J
J
A
S
O
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D

Access issues inherited from Ostrov

Get the local climbing guidebook from Refugio Tisá, HUDY Hřensko possibly also from the local camp. Two options available:

TOPO guide in German and English, 2020 uses standardized saxon grading system wherever the grade is known (marked with "RP"). If no "RP" is written, only the JPK grading is known and you may expect anything.

Průvodce Ostrov, standard czech text guide, 2021, Pay special attention as it uses the traditional JPK grading system (see grading in description).

Ethic inherited from Labské pískovce

Check particular areas for more detailed rules and nature protecton restrictions. General czech sandstone rules apply in all areas:

  1. Climbing is only allowed on dry rock.

  2. No changing of the rock surface.

  3. No hardware protection (friends, rocks, pitons). The gaps between the ring/bolts may only be filled with slings. UFOs (textile friends) are allowed.

  4. No Toprope if it may damage rock or fixed protection (=in theory allowed if there is a maillon or if you use own quickdraw as anchor point AND there is no rope friction with rock)

  5. First ascents shall be consulted upfront with the area administrator. Contacts available at https://www.horosvaz.cz/skaly-region-2/

  6. Further local rules apply depending on the level of protection. See the particular area details.

Routes

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Grade Route

FA: Ernst Rost & O.Lugenheim, 1909

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI

FA: Ehrhard Schuster & K.Freier, 1939

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI

FA: Karel Bělina & V.Kohout, 1969

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb

FA: Karel Bělina & M.Praženka, 1985

FA: Karel Bělina, J.Mayer & M.Bělinová, 1985

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VIIb

FA: Patrik Fabinger und Karel Bělina, 2002

FA: Karel Bělina & M.Švajgl, 2002

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = VI - VIIa (support)

FA: Anton Lexa, F.Hron, R.Jankovský, K.Lukas & S.Stehlík, 1944

FA: Karel Bělina, J.Řežníková & J.Peterek, 2002

FA: Curt Tretbar & W.Sachse, 1912

SX grade unknown, czech JPK grade = V

FA: Karel Bělina, I.Málek & M.Švajgl, 2002

FA: Jiří Janiš & K.Bělina, 1985

Handriss

FA: Kurt Höfer, K.Grau & F.Höfer, 1912

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Gerald Krug

Date: 2020

ISBN: 9783981951585

A comprehensive rock climbing guidebook for Ostrov (Eiland), covering over 3,300 routes on sandstone rock

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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