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Dogs, Cats & Apples Wall

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Description

The first wall on the right as you break into the sunlight, 50m after crossing the creek. Most routes (from So, Said the King through to Aniseed Arete) are on a ledge above the track, the last two start on track level at the left end.

Access issues inherited from Blue Mountains

The Blue Mountains are a World Heritage listed area. The Grose Valley, the cliffs around Katoomba and much of the Narrow Neck peninsula are part of the Blue Mountains National Park which is managed by the NPWS. The Western Escarpment - where most of the climbing is - is Crown Land managed by the BMCC. While the NPWS Plan of Management nominates several locations in the National Park where rock climbing is deemed appropriate, the majority of the climbing remains unacknowledged. To maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible.

Practically all crags are either in National Park or in council reserve: dog owners are reminded that dogs are not allowed in National Parks at any time and fines have been issued, while for crags on council reserve the BMCC leash law requires that dogs be on-leash.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs. If you do the bolts may be removed.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

At many Blue Mountains crags, the somewhat close spacing of routes and prolific horizontal featuring means that it is easy to envisage literally hundreds of trivial linkups. By all means climb these to your hearts content but, unless it is an exceptional case due to some significant objective merit, please generally refrain from writing up linkups. A proliferation of descriptions of trivial linkups would only clutter up the guide and add confusion and will generally not add value to your fellow climbers. (If you still can't resist, consider adding a brief note to the parent route description, rather than cluttering up the guide with a whole new route entry).

If you have benefited from climbing infrastructure in NSW, please consider making a donation towards maintenance costs. The Sydney Rockclimbing Club Rebolting Fund finances the replacement of old bolts on existing climbs and the maintenance of other hardware such as fixed ropes and anchors. The SRC purchases hardware, such as bolts and glue, and distributes them to volunteer rebolters across the state of New South Wales. For more information, including donation details, visit https://sydneyrockies.org.au/rebolting/

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds and minimisation/removal of tick marks becomes part of your climbing routine. Consider bringing a water squirt bottle and mop-up rag to better remove chalk. Only use soft (hair/nylon) bristled brushes, never steel brushes.

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it.

Remember, to maintain access our best approach is to 'Respect Native Habitat, Tread Softly and Leave No Trace'. Do not cut flora and keep any tracks and infrastructure as minimal as possible or risk possible closures.

For the latest access related information, or to report something of concern, visit the Australian Climbing Association NSW Blue Mountains page at https://acansw.org.au/blue-mountains/

Some content has been provided under license from: © Australian Climbing Association Queensland (Creative Commons, Attribution, Share-Alike 2.5 AU)

Routes

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Grade Route

The crack and slab at the left end on the wall. Finishes at lower-off under roof - a 60m rope gets you on the ground with stretch (put a knot at the end please).

FA: L.Nordick, 1991

Starts on the path below the Dogs, Cats and Apples ledge and finishes up SStK.

FA: Greg Childs

Left hand route off the ledge.

FA: Mitch Warren

Keep off Nylon Happy at the top to earn the grade and another star.

FA: Claw

Rebolted 2004. '23' in the 2015 Blue Mountains Guidebook. Rest assured that it is indeed 22. The crack/seam in the middle of the wall. Be careful of some hollow rock.

FA: J. Smoothy, M. Stacey & M. Radke, 1988

Warning Rock: Loose blocks

Great, reasonably committing slabbing. Starts up the same crack feature as Nylon Happy but steps right almost immediately. Up past/into rooflet to interesting face above.

FA: M. Baker, 1991

Classic at the grade. Great funky moves on good rock up the slab to awesome conclusion on fairly unique scoops. Rebolted 2004.

FA: M. Baker, 1991

FA: Mike Law

This is basically a retrobolt of Dragons Egg.

FA: M.Warren, 2003

Has been retro-bolted with ring bolts and has a new finish out to the left after rooflet. Start 3m right of Ness is Best, by the tree.

FA: M Radke J Cooksey, 1988

Rebolted 2004.

FA: J.Smoothy, 1995

A good way to ease into this little wall.

FA: Vanessa Peterson, 2003

First climb up the wall on gear before it got plastered with bolts. Start in small corner.

  1. 15m Up corner, pull onto juggy wall and climb to niche formed by flake below small overhang.

  2. 35m Traverse right to a break in overhang, up for a few moves, then up and left to a groove and follow to a large ledge. Thread and tree belay.

  3. 25m Move 3m right then up a large bushy ledge - tree belay.

FA: R.Lassman & K.Bell, 1972

1m right of Honeycomb on top of the boulder, bolt at start for belayer. Tricky start then follow bolts to roof, pull around roof to DBB.

FA: V Peterson, 2010

Scramble along ledge to BRs.

  1. 80m (20) Up through over hang and jughaul to belay ledge.

  2. -m (-) Wander about through easy territory past BRs on the left side of arete to belay.

  3. -m (-) Walk off to Woodpecker Wall.

FA: G.Short & P.Mort, 1997

Finishes up the black arete that can be seen from the walking track on the way down. The climb is probably now lost in a sea of bolts.

Starts on detached block 6m right of Honeycomb.

  1. 11m Up flake to ledge. Traverse 6m right to belay.

  2. 35m Traverse 3m to large block, climb bulge above trending right on four points of aid (since eliminated by others?). Up wall above on good jugs rightwards towards a good ledge - belay to the right.

  3. 42m Move right and up to small corner level with big cave on arete. Climb bulge and move right to arete. Airily up the Arete to top.

FA: K. Bell & R. Lassman, 1972

Did you know?

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Selected Guidebooks more Hide

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079082

The latest comprehensive, latest and greatest Blue Mountains Climbing Guide is here and it has more routes than you can poke a clip stick at! 3421 to be exact. You are not going to get bored.

Author(s): Simon Carter

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780958079075

Simon Carter's "Best of the Blue" is the latest selected climbing guide book for the Blue Mountains and covers 1000 routes and 19 different climbing areas. For all the sport climbers out there, the travellers, or just anyone who doesn't want to lug around the big guide that's more than 3 times the size - cut out the riff-raff and get to the good stuff! This will pretty much cover everything you need!

Accommodations nearby more Hide

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