Ascents of Orpheus

Climb 18 of 50. An enjoyable outing. Strung pitches 1&2 and 4&5 together.

The general consensus seems to be that this is the route.

Pitches 1,2,3 & 5 were good. Pitch 4 a nightmare of broken, shitty rock + vegetation.

According to the grade, I've not climbed the correct route. Definitely nothing harder than 4-5ish. Hmmmm. 🤔

With Sam L. First 3 pitches of Orpheus, then last 2 pitches of Black Orpheus.

I wasn't expecting much from this route but it turned out to be pretty good! I felt comfortable soloing all pitches except the 2nd. That car sized flake is going to drop like a bomb when it eventually lets go. Down climbed and traversed into cave 3 then rapped down 'Zeitgeist'. Solid morning! Finished by 10:30am just as the sun was nuking the wall!

Nice climb. P2 was the highlight. P3-5 is a little run out in places. Top of P3 is a slanting dirt ledge, slanting up to the left. Follow this to get below BO chimney for the belay. This is as per the description, but the topo diagram will have you going straight up. For P4 I went left to keep out of the scrub in the Prometheus I chimney. It was more run out and harder then it looked. Check all holds for P3&4 before cranking on them. From Cave 4 it is a simple traverse to Cave 3 and the top of Zeitgiest and then join the caves route to head down.

Climbed with my son Joel on Easter Monday. This was in preparation for the Ruby of India. I lead all pitches. Pitch 4 the crux was a bit run out but all good. This was Joel's first Trad. Handled it very well. Not completely sure about the quality but because the crux was a bit run out for placements I have graded as good.

Did the first three pitches then headed up the BO chimney due to dodgy gear on the 4th pitch Second pitch is very runout and riddled with death blocks

Only did the first pitch as I was teaching John, Mel & Wayne trad. Could not find the tree belay but there was a big boulder to anchor to, good to rap down from too. Plenty of pro placements.

nice climb it was good to be out in the open after the morning in the chimney!

Finally found out that this is the climb we did ages ago (date guessed). I just saw the decent looking corner on the way to Prometheus and decided to go up that. Thought we were pioneering an epic new route... but really you can do whatever you want on this section of Tibro. Rapped down caves route. Great day out!

nice day today, did it in 3 pitches with Cris, he led the way to the top i followed recovering the gear, we may have gone wrong at the end, but we end up correctly under the bee nest, be aware of that. Last small chimney is nice and bit exposed. Nice views of the prometheus 2 start point.

Was a bit yucky with ground water seeping out all over the place after the recent rains. The Booty was most welcome tho!

Not as good as BO. Did it in 4 pitches.