100th time I swear trying this (once a week! Not logging them all, I always start with a go the whole way, brush everything), it feels so easy, but still having a balance issue at the veryyy end of the crux. I have low pointed with very little rest, tried so much. just does not fit my body. Finally found a way to fit 4 fingers on a hold I was using 2 on this day though, and now I can balance better. If only I had realized that sooner. I will go back to send when dry and I am sure it will happen.
First times back on since November, and my badfall then (upside down, slamming into wall). Trying new beta. Some things felt easier, some harder, than before. Right before the big overhang, I'm trying new beta to cut out the move left and go straight up to it. I think I need to get my feet a bit more established. The start of the crux went very smoothly, no issues. At the big pinch, I'm still searching for a right foot (knees don't like the super high foot beta), but I think I found a foot chip that's not as far as the reachy foot chip. The crimps above that went fine, except the more slippery one for the right, which would be nice to skip. Where I took the fall I didn't feel particularly fearful, but I grabbed the QuickDraw to clip. I really need to take some falls there next session. The next part to the anchors felt much less scary than before, and I'm relieved. Next session I will focus on linking the new beta, and taking falls at my fear point (last draw).
