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Ascents of Utan Tvekan as various tick types

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Showing all 5 ascents.

Grade Route Gear style Quality Climber
Fri 25th Aug 2023 - Örnberget
South, middle
7c Utan Tvekan Sport 25m
Danja Mewes
Too wet and too tired so just was working first 5 bolts. Move to 5th bolt still not going well...

 
Wed 16th Aug 2023 - Örnberget
South, middle
7c Utan Tvekan Sport 25m
Danja Mewes
Worked the first 5 bolts. First 4 I did in isolation but each move went first go, just have to get clip spots. Then I spent a long time trying to get to the 5th. I think I figured it out going left into the direkt insteg near that bolt, and some kind of drop knee to match on the clip hold and bump or cross to the crimp. But now I'm very uncertain how to clip the one above it, and get through the crux. That's going to take work and feels demotivating. It seemed impossible :S

 
Mon 14th Aug 2023 - Örnberget
South, middle
7c Utan Tvekan Sport 25m
Danja Mewes
Worked first 4 bolts again. Got the moves a bit more solid, they make more sense... Not where to clip though yet

 
Sat 12th Aug 2023 - Örnberget
South, middle
7c Utan Tvekan Sport 25m
Danja Mewes
Led first 4 bolts hang dogging up. Worked on moves and clipping positions. Intense even there but feels more doable than Siddharta. Throws in precise core tension moves. Very "on" immediately compared to e.g. Bad Boys or Vinna eller försvinna, better jugs and holds than Siddharta, more intuitive

 
7c Utan Tvekan Sport 25m
Danja Mewes
Stick clipped all but 3 draws of the first 8. Feels slightly easier than Siddharta but still have many questions

 

Showing all 5 ascents.

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