Took a while to find the start but pretty sure we ended up on the right line - everything matched after P1, which as James says was mostly offwidth, not matching tight crack or hands, and we had to wonder if the right side of the pitch has slipped downhill about 30cm (the whole pillar is just a bunch of blocks trying to fall apart as far as I can tell). Fortunately or unfortunately, James is not a quitter and went on a bold lead with shitty gear on the sides of the crack and at one point a #4 taped to a 4m long stick to push it into the top of the offwidth section. On the plus side the pitch is probably easier now (if you had the right gear) as I seconded it cleanly, but really not great rock quality.
We thought it would get better from there, but nope it gets worse. P2 was a nightmare, really hard to find anything solid to touch. After P2 we bailed through the cave/chimney system inside the pillar to the top of the notch with the main wall. I think this means we followed the line of Josh's Big Trad Line, but ticking here as this is what we intended to climb.
We climbed the first two pitches and then bailed, climbing up through the cave system within to end up on the other side where our other party threw a rope down for us to escape on.
Not sure if the whole side of the thing has slipped, but the route certainly doesn't match the description well re sizes of crack on the first pitch. If you're going to attempt this route (don't) then be sure to bring a #6 or at least a #5 for the off width section with otherwise 5m of run out above a nasty fall.
But yeah, don't climb this line. I almost died. So much choss and loose blocks. And then a piece of the cliff the size of 4 car tyres fell out above me as I was pulling.
A pile of choss with a few exciting moments, a lot of tip-toeing on wobbling blocks ... but its a pure trad 4-pitch multi in the shade on a wild free-standing pillar - that more than makes up for the rest!! Good way to bulk out your Wafer Thin Fin day.
P1 has some great splitter hands which thins to a seam, and a few gr23 slab moves. You could easily pull past this on cams for 18M1 so don't let the grade put you off. Belay off the big blocks on the right. P2 has some good laybacking up a corner then lots of loose stacked blocks. P3 follows a finger crack for gear but mostly easy stemming to the right wall, then a desperate squeeze through roof to belay. P4 is a long easychimney, not much gear off the belay but easy moves, then finishes up the arête on 3 carrots, a cool finale
- with
james ritchie
We thought it would get better from there, but nope it gets worse. P2 was a nightmare, really hard to find anything solid to touch. After P2 we bailed through the cave/chimney system inside the pillar to the top of the notch with the main wall. I think this means we followed the line of Josh's Big Trad Line, but ticking here as this is what we intended to climb.