Ascensioni di Knowledge Enema come trad da Nick Boldt

#3/4. Used the rings on Cocksure to TR this. Jen crushed it with more finesse and less cursing that me. Clearly her Welsh trad climbing experience is coming back.

#3. Lead, much cleaner than last time. Still a bit spastic in the middle section, but with the help of a couple yellow and red cams, a green, and a micro cam, I sewed it up pretty well.

Then got to the hanging block, which MOVED and rotated out of the slot. Caution, it seems wedged but it can still be adjusted upwards. Could come loose with erosion and fall out.

Ended up on the 5.7 chains to the right.

Great route, despite the pants-moistening moment near the top. Yikes!!

#5. Did a second lap on TR after Karla and Kevin had been up it too. Attempted in trail runners but decided I needed a better toe for the crack feet, so came down, shoed up, and got er done.

And then it was sunset and time to hike out.

#4. Some pants-moistening moments involving a popped nut (Karla was belaying from too far back from the wall, girth hitched to a tree, and yanked down on the rope to tighten me up (by request) which popped a mini nut out. Luckily I was 2 or three cams above so it didn't matter. Later after a big run out section put a BD #.5 purple cam in a deep crack in the left side of the corner, which walked out of place and deeper into the crack. No danger of coming out -- in fact it took Karla 2 attempts to remove it (including nut tool gymnastics) and me finally going in w/ 2 hands to get it out. Also tied a sling around the tree at the top on the left wall because was feeling skeeved about the distance since my last cam, but ultimately the traverse over to the rings at Cocksure was easy peasy, and didn't need that extra pro. Still, safety third, right?

Karla had no problems with this one; John got stuck at a tricky layback stem move.

Medium cams, some nuts.