Ascents climbed between 2022-00-00 and 2022-12-31 by Rui Fonseca having Sport CPR

This time I sent the route going the left side instead of the right, to see if it was possible.

I managed to do it and didn't find it hard. However the holds there are dirty and with herbs since everyone climbs the right side.

On my way down I took the opportunity to try going straight ahead. It becomes a little more challenging but doable.

This route is for sure harder than other 6a+ I tried before, so I would say a higher grande is deserved.

The rope clips are not the most easy ones, since you have to use a lot of holds which are not great.

The first 70% of the route is pure endurance climbing with little resting opportunities, as I climbed I reckoned the best would be to go fast and not waste too much energy finding the best holds.

After the hard part a plaform is reached where I could do an hands free rest, which was necessary to recover my energy and finish the route.

At the end of this route I was super pumped and had to rest for quite some time.

This was my first time trying a 7a route and I felt it was not too difficult.

On my first try I managed to climb all the to the crux (that is close to the top) but took a fall. I took some more attempts at deciphering the crux, and in the end I found a beta that worked for me (locking the body facing right, and going static with the left hand to the crack) and managed to reach the top anchor.

At my second ground attempt I struggled a little bit more. Close to the start of the route I had a foot slip that caused me to fall. I resumed the climb but along the way to the crux I noticed I had possibly injured my finger, so when I tried to go past the crux and failed once, I decided to stop my session there.

Feeling confident that on my next session I can send the route with a couple attempts.

Very nice, consistent route all the way up, one of my favourites in this sector

The start of this route (before the first bolt) for me was the hardest part since the holds are not the best and the rock feels slippery and there is not a lot of good footholds. Thankfully you can fully rest after this part. I liked the moves below the roof on top.

Down below at second bold was the crux for me because I was not finding the good holds and footholds require some trust. But after that the roof move is amazing (easy but fun)!

Since we had a top rope set up from the previous route that shares the same top anchor as this route we decided to give it a try. I really liked the first half of the route and was able to reach after the main horizontal crack. The climb was slab like, on some very tiny crimps but okay feet, and used some opposition and compression techniques to climb it. If I was leading the route, I would say this first part is like at least 6c. Then after the main crack I reached a completely blank section, tried to go more on the left side but with no success. This one is still for the future me.

First led this route clipping the draws, but upon reaching the crux I was not able to proceed, I was too pumped on my right arm from the previous route and also afraid of the next move since it had rope very close to the sharp right edge.

After Victor went up and passed the crux and placed the remaining draws, he analysed the crux moves better while hanging and gave me some useful beta. I was not really confident but I was able to crush the crux by using more of the right side of the edge where there are some amazing pocket holds and jugs

We chose this route to warm up and it did so very effectively. Even though the route is not particulary difficult, it is constantly slightly overhang and the hold are geometric-ish which are not trivial to use for me. I finished this route super pumped!

Very technical slab with some amazing moves! Almost feels like it was route setted

Clipping the top is very sketchy, I would have appreciated an extra bolt before it. Its also almost the crux of the route for me.

Boulder style with very good hand holds on a steep wall. Started with a jump to a huge jug with feet hanging

Technical slab at the beginning, transitioning into opposition climbing on the dihedral half way through

Skip this route, the climbing is not that good and the rope gets in dangerous situations with lots of friction with the rock

The top is starting to get rusty

There is a big rock on the third bolt that is loose, but it did not come out by pulling. Also there is a bolt that rotates

Very tricky to clip the roof quickdraw, took some big falls there (kinda safe)

I found this route very physical but engaging, with a wide variety of holds for a small route like some big jugs, sideway crimps, deep finger pockets, a pinch, and a foot jam. I also found the bolts well placed.

Removed a huge (40cm+) rock that was loose. Watch out in this area for other loose rocks.