Ascents in Camarasa by Jef Van Alsenoy

Jugfest

On the first go, I got to the Crux pretty well but couldn't read it onsight. The second try I had to work for a while to figure out how to get past the lower section. The third go was Petzl time but in the dark I could remember the beta so that was cool.

Probably harder for shorter people.

My final trad 'exam' wrapping up my stay. Very beautiful because 100% trad. Good experience to practice reading the friend size beacause the crack varies a bit in width. Crack climbing is all about ignoring that one foot taking all the load I guess... very happy to have lead the harder pitches!

Lots and lots of options for creative cam, sling and nut placements. Joyful climb!

I personally think the crux is overbolted... There's a beautiful crack leading up but the bolts are placed to the right and turnb the crack into an unused beauty. I think we should leave these routes to be hard and traddy, in stead of democratizing the difficulty by suggesting diverging off the natural line...

I was laughing at Oscar's frustration when he came down and said 'Tenía la R en mi puta cara cuando me caí'. Shouldn't have - the same thing happened to me.

Very malicious start... horrible for warming up.