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Camarasa

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Summary

Camarasa is a hotspot for limestone sport and trad climbing, offering both very easy and very hard routes in both disciplines.

Description

Camarasa is one of the most elaborate climbing areas around Lleida. What started out as a paradise for fifth and sixth grade traditional and mixed climbs, has now become a perfect holiday or weekend destination for all sport and trad climbers. The long multipitch trad routes are mainly found on the higher areas of Mont Roig. Sport climbers can stick closer to the roads and, ahtough a couple accesible trad routes and hard to reach but wortwhile sport routes are the example. Many areas are being rebolted with stainless steel expansion bolts and many others have already been taken care of. Harder to reach or less popular routes can still be equiped with older and less reliable gear (so called spits, burrilles or clavos).

Approach

Most areas are reached by following the road that passes the village to the north and proceding straight on a secondary road where the main road takes a steep left and crosses a bridge over the river. Las crestas are reached by crossing the bridge and taking a dirty road on the left hand side just past the bridge.

Where to stay

There are some bed and breakfasts in both Camarasa and the nearby Sant Llorenc, there is a climbers lodge in Camarasa and there's a very big camping near Sant Llorenc. Although free camping is not allowed in Spain, locals have no problem with people spending the night in campers, vans or tents next to the local tennis court (coordinates 41,8738091, 0,8732390). Local climbers meet at San Pere's bar next to the main road at the foot of the hillside,.

Ethic

There's a community of climbers who've invested many years in bolting, rebolting and maintaining the rock around Camarasa. At the bar, ask for Luichy, Marmolejo, Pete O’Donovan, Albert Cortés or Roger to get into contact with the local climbers if you're looking to (re)bolt.

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Selected Guidebooks all

Author(s): Pete O'Donovan and Dani Andrada

Date: 2019

ISBN: 9780956700650

A selective guidebook describing the sport climbing in the province of Lleida to the west of Barcelona and stretching into the Pyrenees, covering 22 different areas and almost 3,900 routes from F3 to F9. The 22 areas covered are Camarasa, St Llorenc de Montgai, Cubells, Alos de Balaguer, La Pauta, Santa Ana, Os de Balaguer, Tartareu, Santa Linya, Ager, Terradets, Vilanova de Meia, Abella de la Conca, Collegats, Oliana, Coll de Nargo, Perles, Canelles, Figols, Tres Ponts, Cavallers, and La Cova de Juncosa.

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