Ascents in Mallorca by Roman

Nails start for 6c. Rest is awesome

Awesome.. Quality and grade similar to choreras

Awesome line. 7a+

Classic!! 7c+ according to local topo. Sent 2nd session. 4/5th go. (once equipping)

Nice to put down the crag classic 2nd go. A stellar 40m excursión!

Result. Today with draws in place and beta dialed it went. Finally a tick on a proper local 7c

To second anchor, 7c. Tried this twice in the last 2 years.. Absolutely loved it but felt bit hard. Today decided to work it so put up a top rope and ended up sending it next go.

Another crag Classic! Tried once 2 years ago. Sent second go today. Beautiful line!! Feel its more 7b+ not 7c. There is a possibility of a more direct version, using different holds to pass the little overhang... Maybe that's where the stiffer grading comes from?!.. But.. The way we climbed it was in route.. So..7b+ it is for me.

Name: indecisión permanente. One of the best 7a's around. (30m? Long!)

Onsight to second anchor (7b) putting up draws. Result

Had for 6c. Not a warm up of any sort!

Fiesty crimping in the crux. Felt more 7b.

2nd

2nd go for 7a+, pumpy as.. Has right knee bar just after round tufa.ball, has 2 very good extensions both at 7b+ whick I tried today. Rhv Fels. More 7c and goes to top of cliff. (beta: after 1st anchor use higher crimp plus mono to step across then right hand Gaston the big tufa.

Pitch 2 is 7c+ and is one of the 2 best longer lines there imo. Great varied climbing.

Backlog. /7b I'd say.. Took quite a few attempts to send this. Sequence needs to be perfect or you shall fall off guaranteed haha. On the day it went red point style to my suprise.. Top 50 in book and still my favourite slab route around..

Sent putting up draws.

Good, long.. 13/14 draws with a spicy finish

Short sustained and didn't flow that much but a good route

Excellent!!

Repeat

Totally worth the effort of getting the rack out! We felt it was a better quality route than the sport multi on the right. (my recomendation to start this climb is to do the first pitch of the sports multi pitch, then walk left a few meters around the cliff to the start of the traditional multi pitch. Saves Bush bashing and you get one extra pitch of climbing Trad multi: P1: steep first few metres, with the crux of the whole multi at about 5m up and protected by 2 bolts. Time to switch on. It's not so cruizy hahah later has a short slab that doesn't have obvious pro.. Then anchor off tree. P2: cool pitch! fully bolted but run out (±7 clips?). P3 amazing pitch.. Nice pro.. Climbing tufas and placing cams was just frikken wesome! Here a number 4 would be nice I think. Maybe even 5, as the crack gets wide. We didn't have 4/5 and was fine. NOTE: at the end of this pitch don't use the obvious anchors! Traverse right on 2? bolts to another set of anchors directly under p4. P4: is as good as the previous, good pro and position to the top. Rappel back down: done in two rapps, using double 60m ropes. Because of the traverse you have to clip in one of your ropes (the one you are not planing to pull down later) in to the redirect biner when last person rapps. Tie knots@end!and enjoy the full 60m rappel 😁 Rack: doubles in 0.4-3 maybe one 4 could be nice. . Full set stoppers. Anchors are 1 tree(or gear) and rings.

Excellent route!! 😍 Misjudged the little crux exit crimp and fluffed it 😭 hahaha.. Happily will do this again.. Beautiful excursión —

Very good. And very long. 70m rope min.

Very good, hard move to the The left at the scoop

Mega classic super sickness

Classic! 3

As close as you can get so sending withought sending.. Passed the crux and over the lip, but forgot to clip and ended up clipping below the waist off a crimp, which cost me the send. Awesome Big moves in the roof. (beta: right hand to horn above tufa)

One go. Bolts are super rusty, espacially 3rd (crux) bolt. Used anchor to left. Very cool route though

Awsome easy climbing.

Sandbag.. Nasty crimping.. very hard for grade

Super fun moves over the roof! Right hand up to high hidden crimp after roof is the key. 2

Very good

One of the most spectacular 6a+ on the island!

P1 only. Didn't realise there is a second pitch to this 😋

Classic!! Polished.. But still.. one of the best 7a's on the island imo! Tried to score an end of day onsight.. But no chance.. This one deserves some respect. (beta: right heel hook-Rock over at bottom crux.. Under anchors move left.

Quite a bit of sequence needs to be dialed in for this to go.. Sustained! 3rd

2nd. Soft if your tall, I think! The crag Classic and a well deserved title

Super good!

Crimpy af. missed the hold out left..

Pretty sweet to Flash this 55m excursión on my warm up. (though I felt it was more 7a+?! ,.. if you know how to jam) it's got it all, thin slab to start, then steep fun jugs, one or two boulder moves and some crack climbing to finish.

Finally.. Got on the famous line. The tufa classic of the island. Hard and super pumpy for the grade! Fell 0.5m from the anchor on onsight attempy 😭.. Sent next go 😊