Bouldery start with a bomber hand-jam that simplifies everything once you're one move off the ground. Was hilarious watching sport climbers avoiding the jam by pulling much harder moves around it. The layback on delicate feet after the 2nd (?) bolt was probably the physical crux, but getting to the 5th bolt was a definitely mental crux, with the most obvious (i.e. heavily chalked) approach involving moving far right around the arete with very poor hands and reaching delicately up to a high horn, at risk of a big swing. It might have been possible, though physically harder, to go straight up from bolt 4 to 5.
Fantastic climbing on steeppockets, with generous bolting and enough rest opportunities to keep it sane. Powerful and pumpy start leads to a rest in the cave, then slightly easier moves before final, tricky moves to finish.
Spotted the cracked bolt, but wasn't too concerned about it, as it looks like it would still hold all but the hardest climbing falls, even if it wouldn't be up to its full rated strength, and with easy climbing to the next bolt once above it, and the previous bolt still not being too far down, it seems unlikely to cause problems. Should definitely be replaced though.
Seriously hard start over ground you wouldn't want to fall onto, but the climb then becomes easier the higher your get. Stick clip advisable unless you're very confidant, and even then the ridiculous orientation of the bolt hangers makes stick clipping tricky.
