Ascents in Oregon by Hard Landin' Brandon

Great moves. Watch out for the loose hold near the first bolt.

Avoid. The book draws a topo line up a moss-choked seam, which strikes me as dubious and at odds with the recommended gear width. To the right of this is the 2.5" crack leading to the loose column. The low climbing is good, but after that everything is ugly. The loose column is dangerous, but you'll need to plug some gear around the stronger section of it. Above this bad gear, a run-out on chossy holds leads to a bush for a top anchor. I traversed to the Knobland anchor instead.

This was much more fun than I thought it'd be. Yay heel hooks!

TR. Couldn't get past ringlocks and a crack too narrow for my toes.

Struggled on TR. Skipped the low crux of the route and climbed the much easier upper half, which was quite fun.

Great fun! Watch for loose stuff below the crack.

30mph sustained winds and some vicious rope drag detracted a bit from the experience on this one. Still, the view was good, and it's always interesting to stand on a sea stack at the beach.

Laura struggled with the bolt ladder, so I rapped from the mouth to Bohn Street. We then rapped from the Rising Expectations anchor back to the ground (70m rope recommended for that last rappel). Amazing exposure. I'll be back some day (West Face Direct Variation perhaps?).

with Laura. P1 only. Ignored the crack and the right side of the bottom dihedral for some fun face climbing.

with Laura. Entertaining footwork on knobs.

with Laura. Linked with Ginger Snap. It's easy to see that the quality of this one has improved over time as the nubbins snapped off.

Linked with the easy climbing right of Ginger Snap.

with Laura. Linked this with Rodney's Chocolate Frosted Love Donut.

with Laura. Linked P1 & P2. P1 was great fun. Rock quality on P2 is not nearly as good, but the climbing was still enjoyable. Rapped with an 80m.

with Laura. Super slab pitch was great. P2 traverse was a little funky. Two rap descent with 80m rope.

Damn that was fun. Mother Nature crafted some wonderful handholds up the underside of this cave. The guide book describes the route as "contrived until you try it" and I'd agree. It felt strangely natural to stick to the steepest line. Fun knee bar! Tightly bolted -- I'll have to try this again on lead!

Link up. Clipped first 2 bolts of Captain Horatio Horn Blower, traversed right and finished on Aqua Man starting from the 2nd bolt. Good fun. Also led to a more interesting (and sustained) route.

TR'ed a (5/8/5.9) line mixing Beyond the Siskiyou Sky and this route. Some fun cracks and bulges to overcome.

with Laura. A couple of bolt placements were a bit awkward. Twice I placed gear only to find a bolt later. I personally thought the rock quality was least conducive to gear at the only spot where bolts are lacking! Still, there were a few fun moves and interesting pockets on the route.

(Second part of link up with White Slab Crack). Huge holds, fun moves. 3rd bolt is harder to clip if you're short, but there's a spot for a 0.5 C4 between bolts 2 and 3.

(First part of link up with Fishhooks on the Whip).

Led P2 and P4. Wish P4 was longer! Started at 5pm, back at the base by 8pm.

Led P4 only after climbing White Lycra. Abysmal rock quality followed by a fantastic view.

My very kind climbing partner gave me the money pitch. Used up #9, #10, and #11 hexes on that one! Belayed from one good bolt backed up by a #3 C4 cam far back to the right. Then continued up the last 1.5 pitches of Lost in Space.

Jams felt a little painful. Still very fun.

Fantastic route. I popped in a blue alien above the bolt, decided I didn't want to fall on it, and hung at the bolt until I saw a better foothold and cam placement. Really fun moves all the way up.

Had to do it twice.

Fun double cracks. Pulled the bulge at the top.

Really enjoyable jams and stemming

Fun! Good jams.

Climbing the chimney behind the detached column offered one way to escape the heat!

Some fun easy mantles towards the end of the arête.

Fell above the the last bolt and had a sad. For the next few days my palms burned and my hips were stiff from so much stemming. Amazing route.

Started to rain! The ledge would have made this a scary lead IMHO.

Fantastic moves up beautiful rock. Packs a lot of pump in 35 ft.

Lowered from Wherever I May Roam anchors to top-rope P2 only. Rotten rock made this a regrettable decision.

Led P2 and P4. Stunning views from the summit. Anchors atop P3 can get crowded as other parties descend.

Had a nice little "Why am I falling?" moment near the crux. Good moves.

Great fun. Climb only left or right of the bolts for some fun variation.

I think I led it, but I can't remember!