Searching in:
| Grade | Route | Gear style | Quality | |||
|---|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Sat 30th Jul 2016 - Fort Collins | ||||||
| Poudre Canyon Crystal Wall North Face | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★ Silver Girl
- with
Jon
| 24m, 11 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 30th Jul 2016 - Fort Collins | ||||||
| Poudre Canyon Crystal Wall Southwest Alcove | ||||||
| 5.11b |
★★ Ballet of the Bulge
- with
Jon
| 12m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10c |
★★ Inyerbuttkwa
- with
Jon
| 12m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★★ County Line
- with
Jon
| 12m, 7 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 25th Oct 2015 - Rocky Mountain National Park | ||||||
| Estes Park Valley Big Thompson Canyon Combat Rock | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★ Diagonal
| 76m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Fantastic Sunday afternoon with Jon. Wasps on P1 but they didn't bother us.
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| Sun 19th Jul 2015 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Lover's Leap North Crag West Face Right of 45 Wall | ||||||
| 5.11c |
★★★ Unnamed Face
| 18m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Really fun technical slab, with just enough holds to get you to the top. Like playing a game of chess with the rock.
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| Sun 19th Jul 2015 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Lover's Leap Sesame Street Wall | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★ Burt's Bulge
| 15m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
|
Sharp, but fun enough
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| 5.7 |
★ Tickle Me Elmo
| 15m, 5 | ★ Good | |||
|
Gina led. Thoughtful climbing at the grade. Sharp!
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| Sun 19th Jul 2015 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Lover's Leap North Crag North Face Groove Tube Wall | ||||||
| 5.11a |
★★★ Groove Tube
| 30m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Excellent. The tube was really fun. Comfortable holds and lots of jugs on weird rock.
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| Sun 19th Jul 2015 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Lover's Leap North Crag East Face The Beaver Wall | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★ Lead it to Beaver
| 27m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
|
Sharp! Interesting crux. Watch for the loose block.
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| Sun 19th Jul 2015 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Lover's Leap North Crag West Face Right of 45 Wall | ||||||
| 5.9 5.10b |
★★ Squirrel Nose
| 18m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fun, but top roping the face to the right was the real highlight. Mid 5.11 for a line up the right side of that slab?
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| Sat 11th Jul 2015 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Castle Crags Castle Dome West Face | ||||||
| Class 4 X |
★★ SW Scramble
| 260m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
With Gina. At the top, Gina led up the staircase, and we descend via slabs to the right. Very satisfying and accessible scramble to the top.
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| Sat 11th Jul 2015 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Castle Crags Six Toe Rock | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Six Toe Crack
| 91m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
With Gina. Perfect weather. #5 cam was nice to have.
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| Sun 28th Jun 2015 - Redwood Coast | ||||||
| Promontory Main Wall | ||||||
| 5.12c |
★★★ Great White
| 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
1 hang. One of the best sport routes I've ever had the privilege to climb.
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| 5.12c |
★★★ Great White
| 29m, 10 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
Had to clean it! Just as good the second time.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Humboldt Current
| 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Ride the Woody
| 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Finished at the new top anchor.
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| Sat 27th Jun 2015 - Redwood Coast | ||||||
| Promontory Main Wall | ||||||
| 5.11a |
★★ Blackbeard's Tears (Pitch 1)
| 12m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 27th Jun 2015 - Redwood Coast | ||||||
| Promontory The Abyss Boulder | ||||||
| 5.10d 5.10c |
★★ Man the Cannons
| 11m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sat 27th Jun 2015 - Redwood Coast | ||||||
| Promontory Main Wall | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ Humboldt Current
| 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ Humboldt Current
| 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| Sat 27th Jun 2015 - Redwood Coast | ||||||
| Promontory Puff Boulder | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Blowhole
| 18m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.8 5.9 |
★★ Clicking Barnacles
| 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 21st Jun 2015 - Trinity Arêtes | ||||||
| Shooting Gallery Upper Shooting Gallery | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★ Snakeshot
| 27m, 12 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.11a |
★★ Goldrush
| 27m, 14 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10a 5.10a PG13 |
★ Epic In A Bottle
| 21m, 6 | Average | |||
| Sun 21st Jun 2015 - Trinity Arêtes | ||||||
| Shooting Gallery The Boardwalk | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★ Wussy Boy
| 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.10b |
★ She Male
| 20m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.10a |
★ Cedar's Dihedral
| 24m, 9 | ★ Good | |||
| 5.8 |
★ Girly Man
| 11m, 4 | ★ Good | |||
| Sat 20th Jun 2015 - Clear Creek | ||||||
| Tenmile Swimming Hole | ||||||
| V1 |
★★ South Slot Traverse Low
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V1 |
★★ South Slot Traverse High
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V0 |
★★ Groovy
| 5m | ★ Good | |||
| V2 |
★★ North Slot Crack
| 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V1 V0 |
★★ Fish Out of Water
| 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V3 |
★★★ Ithxúupka
| 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
| V5 |
★★★ Massive Áasiv
| 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Just couldn't push through the mantle.
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| Tue 26th May 2015 - Fisher Towers | ||||||
| Ancient Art | ||||||
| 5.11a 5.10 |
★★★ Stolen Chimney
| 95m, 12 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Retreated from rappel ledge when lightning storms rolled in. Very crowded route, lots of waiting.
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| Sun 10th May 2015 - Redwood Coast | ||||||
| Promontory Main Wall | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Ride the Woody
| 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Too bad we missed the woody while it was there. Really fun route.
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| 5.10b |
★★★ The Mermaid
| 18m, 6 | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Sandy, but just as fun as Humboldt Current.
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| 5.10a |
★★ Humboldt Current
| 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
| 5.10a |
★★ Humboldt Current
| 18m, 5 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Super fun. The lattice of pockets had me smiling all the way to the top. The Mermaid felt easier, but maybe I just missed a jug or two.
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| Sun 10th May 2015 - Redwood Coast | ||||||
| Promontory Puff Boulder | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★★ The Slow Spring
| 18m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
| 5.10b |
★★★ Wildwood
| 18m, 8 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Wonderful near vertical slab on some of the best quality rock I've seen on the coast. The last few moves would be a bit dodgy on lead, as my partner from England would say.
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| 5.8 5.9 |
★★ Clicking Barnacles
| 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fun warm up. A bit runout. This would not be a casual affair for someone climbing at their limit.
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| Fri 17th Oct 2014 - Plumas National Forest | ||||||
| Pigeon Cliff | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★★ Cajones con Lodo
| 24m, 3 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
For whatever reason, I really enjoyed this one.
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| 5.12d |
★★★ The Bolt Highway
| 26m, 10 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
DNS. Had to skip two moves (that felt somewhat height dependent), but the rest of the climbing was absolutely fantastic.
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| 5.8 |
★ The Family Route
| 21m | ★ Good | |||
|
Linked River View Crack to the top half of the Family Route. Tight chimney!
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| 5.10d |
★★★ Sack Lunge (Lower)
| 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Harder than it looked! Some constrictions kept this from being off-fingers.
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| 5.9 |
★★★ River View Crack
| 12m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
The slick basalt keeps this from being a gimmie. Good fun. If only it were longer.
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| 5.12b |
★★★ Hawaiian Tropic (Full)
| 21m, 7 | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
with rests. Good climbing with a thuggish crux. A key hold is loose which may bump the grade when it finally pulls out.
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| 5.10d |
★★★ Hawaiian Tropic (Lower)
| 12m, 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Very fun climbing up the arête. Highly recommend. If only it were longer, and if only there were a little less swallow dung.
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| Thu 16th Oct 2014 - Lake Tahoe, California Side | ||||||
| Truckee - Donner Donner Summit Snowshed Wall North Face | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★★★ The Thing
| ★★ Very Good | ||||
|
Fun enough, but it was windy and cold. Placing gear could be a little tricky at the top.
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| Mon 13th Oct 2014 - Castle Valley | ||||||
| Castleton Tower | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★★★ Kor-Ingalls
| 120m, 3 | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
|
With Jon. Led all pitches. I was glad to have both the #4 and #5 cams. Chimneys are the future of climbing, for sure. Super fun! Rappelled the North Face with a single 80m rope.
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| Sun 12th Oct 2014 - Arches National Park | ||||||
| Owl Rock | ||||||
| 5.8 |
★★ Owl Rock
| 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
With Jon leading. Absolutely beautiful sunset with rain clouds all around.
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| Thu 9th Oct 2014 - Salt Lake City | ||||||
| Big Cottonwood Canyon JHCOB wall | ||||||
| 5.7 |
★★ Outside Corner
| 91m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
With Jeremy. Led all pitches. Started with the left (5.8?) variation on P1. Honestly, this route didn't live up to the hype. We got behind a slower party and summited after sunset, so that might have dampened some of our enthusiasm.
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| Sun 14th Sep 2014 - Valley Of The Rogue | ||||||
| Greensprings Left Section | ||||||
| 5.10c |
★★ Chain Links
| 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Great moves. Watch out for the loose hold near the first bolt.
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| 5.8 5.7 |
★ Snake-N-Flake
| Don't Bother | ||||
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Avoid. The book draws a topo line up a moss-choked seam, which strikes me as dubious and at odds with the recommended gear width. To the right of this is the 2.5" crack leading to the loose column. The low climbing is good, but after that everything is ugly. The loose column is dangerous, but you'll need to plug some gear around the stronger section of it. Above this bad gear, a run-out on chossy holds leads to a bush for a top anchor. I traversed to the Knobland anchor instead.
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| Sun 14th Sep 2014 - Valley Of The Rogue | ||||||
| Greensprings Right Section | ||||||
| 5.11b |
★★ Free Goo
| 4 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
This was much more fun than I thought it'd be. Yay heel hooks!
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| 5.11d 5.11+ |
★★ Yosemite Crack
| 15m, 1 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
TR. Couldn't get past ringlocks and a crack too narrow for my toes.
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| 5.12b |
★★★ Last Chance
| 15m, 6 | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Struggled on TR. Skipped the low crux of the route and climbed the much easier upper half, which was quite fun.
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| 5.8 |
★★★ Razor Crack
| 15m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Great fun! Watch for loose stuff below the crack.
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| Sat 23rd Aug 2014 - Clear Creek | ||||||
| Tenmile Swimming Hole | ||||||
| V4 |
★★★ Ápsuun Drowns
| 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
First ascent? Maybe. Felt hard and took some tries, so I'm calling it V4. Crux is definitely at the bulge two thirds up. There's some really fun movement in here. It's great to climb that high and know that the fall is always clean into deep water.
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| V3 |
★★★ Ithxúupka
| 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
This time with wet shoes. This is a great problem.
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| V5 |
★★★ Massive Áasiv
| 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
I'm still surprised when I get to the top.
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| Sun 10th Aug 2014 - Clear Creek | ||||||
| Tenmile Swimming Hole | ||||||
| V3 |
★★★ Get On Up
| 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Fun!
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| V0 |
★★ Groovy
| 5m | ★ Good | |||
| V0 |
★★ Groovy
| 5m | ★ Good | |||
| V0 |
★★ Groovy
| 5m | ★ Good | |||
| V0+ |
★★ South Slot Face
| 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Climbed straight up.
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| V0+ |
★★ South Slot Face
| 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Founds some fun dynos starting on the two handed jug low and to the right.
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| V2 |
★★ North Slot Crack (North Wall Crack)
| 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V3 |
★★ Ápsuun Overs
| 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Did it L -> R then R -> L
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| Sat 9th Aug 2014 - Clear Creek | ||||||
| Tenmile Swimming Hole | ||||||
| V1 |
★★ South Slot Traverse High
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V4 |
★★★ Let Sleeping Logs Lie
| 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
The key is to not look down at the log when you're stemming on bad holds.
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| V1 |
★★ South Slot Traverse Low (South Wall Traverse)
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V5 |
★★★ Massive Áasiv
| 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
Found some different beta for the mantel.
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| Sun 3rd Aug 2014 - Clear Creek | ||||||
| Wilderness Falls | ||||||
| V2 |
★★ Strip Steak Flake
| 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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It shares its crux down low with the Wilderness Traverse. It's so tempting to continue up past the flake, but I had my reservations about the fall if a hold should happen to break.
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| V1 |
★★ Dipper Right
| 5m | ★ Good | |||
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After brushing away some dirt, this was funner than I expected. Wet shoes make this feel harder than it is.
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| V2 |
★★ Dipper Left
| 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Very fun. A little intimidating to get around the bulge. The moves might actually be V1 difficulty.
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| V2 |
★★ Wilderness Traverse
| 12m | ★ Good | |||
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Aside from the short crux matching on a small hold, the real challenge was to avoid all the spiders!
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| V4 |
★★★ Boiling Over
| 5m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
I'm assuming it's not been climbed before. Hope that's not too presumptuous. What a lucky find! The wall looked immediately appealing, but I had reservations. At first I thought, "I'd get swept over the falls" but that's not the case. Then I thought, "The pool won't be deep enough" but I couldn't find the bottom. Then I thought, "The holds up top won't let me confidently top out" but they are terrific jugs. A video of the ascent is here:
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| Sun 3rd Aug 2014 - Clear Creek | ||||||
| Tenmile Swimming Hole | ||||||
| V2 V3 |
★★ Backflop
| 3m | ★★ Very Good | |||
|
Certainly there are easier ways up, but what's the fun in that?
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| V3 |
★★★ Ithxúupka
| 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V1 |
★★ South Slot Traverse Low (South Wall Traverse)
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V1 |
★★ South Slot Traverse Low (South Wall Traverse)
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| Sun 27th Jul 2014 - Gold Beach | ||||||
| Kissing Rock | ||||||
| 5.8 5.8 R |
★★★ Sun Kissed
| 49m, 5 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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30mph sustained winds and some vicious rope drag detracted a bit from the experience on this one. Still, the view was good, and it's always interesting to stand on a sea stack at the beach.
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| Sat 19th Jul 2014 - Clear Creek | ||||||
| Tenmile Swimming Hole | ||||||
| V1 |
★★ South Slot Traverse Low
| 9m | ★★ Very Good | |||
| V2 |
★★ North Slot Crack (North Wall Crack)
| 6m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Very good. Nice jam at the beginning. Not too hard (could be V1) yet still overhanging enough for safe fall. Approach: swim. Descent: jump.
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| V5 |
★★★ Massive Áasiv
| 6m | ★★★ Classic | |||
|
I assume this was previously unclimbed, but that might be presumptuous. First worked it in 2013. Super fun, mantel felt pretty desperate. Probably V4/V5. Áasiv is the Karuk word for a cave or overhanging rock.
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| V3 |
★★ Ápsuun Downs
| 5m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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Very fun. Garter snake was sunning itself at the base. Probably not a first ascent, but I'll suggest a name for the problem. Ápsuun is Karuk for "snake". Upson Downs is a historic parcel of land near Seiad. So Ápsuun Downs seemed like a good pun. Phonetically it sounds like "ups and downs" or "upside down" which is what you might be if you climb this problem.
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| Sun 11th May 2014 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Castle Crags Mt. Hubris | ||||||
| 5.6 |
★★★ Cosmic Wall
| 240m | ★★★ Mega Classic | |||
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with Laura and Joel. Just as fun as it was in January. Now with more daylight, more climbers, and many wildflowers and hummingbirds.
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| Sat 10th May 2014 - Mt. Shasta Area | ||||||
| Castle Crags Castle Dome Trail Area Warmup Wall | ||||||
| 5.9 |
★ Unknown 1
| 27m | ★ Good | |||
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with Laura and Joel. Warmup wall is wide and featured enough for at least two or three different toprope lines, all of them fun.
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| 5.8 5.9 |
★★ Warmup Route
| 27m | ★★ Very Good | |||
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with Laura and Joel. Careful footwork and an eye for tricky placements will get you to the chains with a big smile on your face. Great fun.
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| Sat 26th Apr 2014 - Fort Collins | ||||||
| Poudre Canyon The Palace Mineshaft Wall | ||||||
| 5.11c |
★ Armor Plated
| 24m, 8 | ★ Good | |||
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At 5'4" the undercling deadpoint just wasn't happening. This part of the route seemed somewhat contrived, but I could see the appeal. I rather enjoyed sticking to the [more natural] line that goes up right of the bolt.
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| Sat 26th Apr 2014 - Fort Collins | ||||||
| Poudre Canyon The Palace The Scepter | ||||||
| 5.10a |
★★ The Scepter
| 23m, 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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with Jon. Forgot to stand on top!
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| Sat 26th Apr 2014 - Fort Collins | ||||||
| Poudre Canyon The Palace The Chamber | ||||||
| 5.10d |
★★ The Rack
| 8 | ★★ Very Good | |||
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with Jon
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| 5.9 |
★ Churchill Rejects
| 17m | ★ Good | |||
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with Jon
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| Sat 12th Apr 2014 - Salt Lake City | ||||||
| Little Cottonwood Canyon Bong Eater Buttress | ||||||
| 5.10d 5.10b |
★★ Hand Eater
| 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Good fun. Did Bong Eater first, which made the Hand Eater variation to Bong Eater feel a bit easier.
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| 5.10d |
★★ Bong Eater
| 24m | ★★★ Classic | |||
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Excellent crack, with an exhausting finish. So much blood in the crack. Tape, people, tape.
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