Ascents in Myrties by peta barrett

Sneaky finish

First day. Swollen feet keep it short. Fun start though.

First 6 bolts of Oxeo, then step right onto the face. Blue bolts from here. Good but long!!!

decided to warm up on this. might be a bit tougher as a warm up.... still good though.

easy to the crimp. fall a lot at the crimp.. easy to the anchor. managed to actually hold the crimp once but not sure how much body weight was actually taken off....a lot?? feeling like i might be getting my strength back in my right hand though. wishful thinking?? x 3 shots. all felt good

pretty generic moves and sharp.

after two years of back problems, i really doubted my abilities. i really shouldnt have. this was nicer than the warm up. felt easy.

thought i would alternate my climbing with a lap of this and a lap of katranemia.

pretty slimy day and the start was almost impossible to do. so wet! however, apart from the crux move, the rest went quite easily. if only the crux wasnt a right hand crimp. pinched nerve damage.... 3 shots

A couple of salty greasy pockets in there but really nice moves

Our first ease in session to get our jet lagged swollen feet into our shoes. Wasn’t too bad! Stopped before they started hurting. Nice climb. A couple of ‘oh hello’ moments. Good warm up day.

Felt heavy today. Did mega laps on the crux. At some point I'll get stronger..right? Haha... oh well (2.5)

Still can't hold the crux crimp. Sailing to the crux, falling. Clipping the next draw then trying the crux again. Sailing to the anchors. Not sure this is ever gonna go. One bloody hold! At least Scott got it!

Good conditions but a sleepless night. Getting stronger on the crimp. (3)

3 full laps with about 10 laps at the crux sequence. Found out the hard way it's easier to clean on tr so after a huge swing at the roof, top roped to clean. Kept climbing til I came off... At the crux as always. Not bad for back to back climbs in humid conds

4 shots. Got everything pretty wired and efficient just can't hold the crux crimp. Did some static hangs on it and just hope I get stronger.

Conditions were good. Still can't hold the crimp though. 3 shots. Clean to the move below the crimp. Clean from the move after the crimp to anchors... Lose weight, get stronger...

Chossy and not really worth doing.

put it up, then took it down. humidity has basted it in oil!!! such a pity. Last time in good conds got to crux clean. at least this time had a longer play at the crux and maybe found another way to get through it. til next year....

Conditions were better but this was harder than I thought it would be. First shot working out the crux beta with a few laps at the crux to get it sorted. Just made it 2nd shot.

Thought this would be an impossiproj but 2nd lap had me clean to the crux, holding the crux hold... got to the next hold and then clean to the top. Ran out of shade otherwise would have jumped on lead. Definite possiproj!!

Nearly killed my hubby at the anchor. Luckily had just clipped it and was pulling up to clean the draws when the loaf of bread sized jug I was holding suddenly pulled off. If I hadnt of clipped, Scott would have been pulled into its path. Luckily he got out of the way and we didn't lose our rope either.

Yeah why not.

Another dog to add to my growing collection. Couldn't hold the pinch, fingers too fatigued. Otherwise, not too bad!

Don't think it's worth the 3 stars. Possibly sandbagged but being that today was dry and the top part is in that grey salty oily rock, would not like to do this when wet. But not bad....

It's really good if you finish at the anchor on utopia. If you continue on your journey, be aware there has been no attempt to comfortise... And it really needs it. I could do all the moves but decided to keep all the skin on my hands. The cauliflower rock has teeth around all the holds and I really didn't break enough of them off on my journey. I'll come back in ten years! Polish away people!!! Please!!!!

Good. Little bit punchy for the grade.

Something may have broken off at the bulge as this was harder than the 6b. Pretty good though

Watch out for the hornets nest on AP Wall. Just at the ledge of the first bulge, just to the left of a tufa line there is a large nest. Take care, they have been particularly vicious this year. Otherwise, fun climb with a tricky move. The top of this came into the sun at about 11.45am.

Fun. Beware the hornets living in the hole to the right of the 5th bolt. These ones weren't too angry but there are nasty ones around this year. The top was a little spoogy today as no winds and super humidity.

Initially the overuse of bolts looks a little wasteful.... Until you get on the rock. Still looks pretty fragile and I can see why this wall isn't popular. However, it is actually a kinda fun climb if you like mini holds and delicate moves.

Interesting and varied. Check out the crystals in the cave

A definite crux move.

Definitely the way to do this route is with the extension. Make sure you take some extension draws!

Good fun.

have walked off the back of this through symplegades which was much easier than reversing the via ferata and walking down the scree. took about half the time too! and that's with walking along the high road to get home.

Fun start but crappy Chossy finish. Might come good after a few more ascents. Half the rock feels like its coated in olive oil. Pity...

Surprisingly good. Sequency and tiny feet.

Horrible and sharp....all the way up.

Super easy slab start, along with super run outs... Followed by amazing layback crack, followed by a moment of sheer terror as all your footholds crumble away to nothing! Finishes up on crimpy crumbly stuff. If you can forget the terrifying bits, the good bits were amazing!!!!

Super super easy then short hard section

About 3m of moves.... Just gets good then it ends!!! Looks like a candidate for a harder extension.