Ascents in Star Factory by Paul Frothy Thomson

3 laps on Top Rope. Managed to link to the crux upper 1/3rd on my 3rd lap. Managed all the sequences of the crux, with some linkage and overlapping, but would need a LOT of time and effort to get it dialled. Strenuous varied jamming on glassy feet for the first 2/3rds, then polished, technical moves up a fused vague corner with non-existant feet and holds. Lots of body tension required. Gear is good enough, but spaced at the top.

Warmup repeat. Placing draws today. Awesomeness.

Crag Sampler Day, Climb #3 - Flashed to half height placing draws, then dogfest putting together the top. Pumpy, powerful and juggy moves to halfway, then non-stop hard sequences to the top with no rest. 2 moves I never worked out, but I was limited by time. The Gaston-match-deadpoint sequence is malevolently demanding, and the upper overhanging bottomless groove is baffling and amazing. I really enjoyed this.

Crag Sampler Day, Climb #2 - Bailed off this at half-height, after taking numerous big falls trying to work out a hard sequence, I stripped the route before I could get frustrated. Seems like it could be a rad route, bit really needs 2 more bolts (it has 7 bolts in 25m at the moment).

Crag Sampler Day, Climb #1 - Quite a few falls at the 2m hardest section of the crux working it out. Onsight the other 23m of the climb. enjoyable 20/21 corner to ledge. Then a few tricky moves to a short and hard tips layback on smeared feet crux, then a committing and intimidating topout up a slab. Pretty good, but only 2 stars at this crag. Extremely cruxy climbing surrounded by very easy climbing is not my cup of tea.

Repeat. Cruised it today. Just enjoyed the journey this time. Classic.

2 shots. The first was a Dogs breakfast, but the 2nd I managed to link to the main crux from the ground (about gr25 to here), then put together the crux and all the moves to the top with good linkage, including the extremely committing finale (which needed some excitingly big swinging falls to sort). I still can't QUITE dial the final part of the crux. Immaculate, varied and super-sustained. The stunning, committing headwall is technical, tenuous and insecure with intimidating sideways runouts.

Repeat. Still amazing. Full disclosure: I actually fell off turning the roof for the first time ever (after running up the hill from Sleepy Bay and starting up this without even a pause)... D'oh!

2 shots. Onsight to the traverse (surprise surprise). 2nd shot I cruised through the crux, but discovered the hard way that the bloody bolt at the end of the traverse puts the quickdraw ON the hold at the end of the traverse, and despite my best efforts I couldn't move it out of the way before falling off. Bloody frustrating!!! I then went clean to the top from there. Not as classic as other stuff at the Star Factory, but unique climbing (for here) and also pretty rad powerful, shouldery moves.

The moves to the 2nd bolt are probably more 22 than 20, but it's a cruise from there on up. Pretty ordinary, but not terrible, and it makes it easy for your belayer to stay on the ground if you're climbing Chris the Porn King.

Repeat. Great as a warmup. I enjoyed this more today because I cruised it, and could simply ENJOY it. Classy, varied, sustained climbing on perfect rock. Utterly aesthetic.

Onsight to the crux at 2/3rds height. Then put together the sequence to the next bolt (main crux), and had worked out a tricky span sequence to get through the main crux when time and weather decided it was time to bail. The bottomless chimney start is unpleasant and the rock is bad, but from the steep moves under the roof to the crux slab (the angle eases over the entirety of the climb) the rock and moves get better.

2 laps. Just playing around really. Put together the bottom undercling-power crux (though never linked it) but never put together a viable sequence for the main crux which would be possible on link. The traverse into and finish up antimatter are pretty rad. Basically an awesomely involved 23 with 2 cruxes, one powerful and the other thin and tricky. Great rock.

2nd shot. This would be a rad 22 to the good undercling that marks the start of the crux (about 16m up), but the bouldery crux (which FOR ME required some desperate smearing, a back-heel, cross-over match and full-body barndoor, square-heel rockover and a spot of sloper-loving) is a stark contrast to the rest of the route, and kind of sharp with rock rapidly deteriorating the the anchors.

3 shots. I just COULDNT catch a break with this one. Between the high humidity, sweat, spooge and bad luck, this one still goes unsent. 1st shot it took a bit to figure out the traverse right, then cruised the slab to the top. 2nd shot I cruised to the last bolt then unexpectedly slipped off a spoogy crimp. 3rd shot I slipped off another spoogy crimp lower down on the slab (in the easy section). With the right conditions this is a GREAT climb... I just didn't find them.

I was asking for trouble with every inch of this dripping wet, but I couldnt pass up a shot at such an aesthetic line. Fell off on the 4th bolt (moving out right), and again at the last bolt when I unexpectedly exploded off the clipping sloper (before clipping). But considering I was climbing a wet friction slab, Im more than happy with the effort. Thin, techy seam to start, then rad heel-hooking and smearing traverse right, culminating in a long, sustained thin friction slab that is beautiful.

Great, sustained climbing up bizarre granite features with beatiful moves throughout. Didnt seem too hard for a 23, even with a lot of it being quite damp, but was thoroughly enjoyable from start to finish. Aesthetically awe-inspiring. Took a victory whip from the top.

Okay climbing, but only briefly interesting. Easy trad start up a chimney and crack to a ledge, with some interesting moves up a double flake system to an abruptly foreshortened finish. An okay warm-up, I suppose.