Nodes in Star Factory

Immaculate water polished orange granite, generally slightly overhanging, 30m high and 500m long wall, mostly sport routes and some trad.

Routes are listed R to L as you come to them via the access trail.

Climbs to the ledge where Chris the Porn King starts.

Climb the Access route till the ledge. Double bolt belay. Climb the top pitch up via some cool moves on not the best quality rock. Not a bad little route. Harder if you are short.

Follow the crack L of Chris The Porn King to the roof. Head R to pass the roof and follow the thin layback to the double bolt belay.

The obvious corner R of The Reason. In fact this striking line, when viewed from a kayak below, was the inspiration for the development of the Star Factory, perhaps the true reason. From a distance it looked like a grade 21 corner! Climb easy crack for 8m to good natural belay at base of corner. Layback and stem the steep thin corner to ledge then onto DBB. Better than it looks from the ground, as the crack is perfect water polished granite, rather than the crystals it appears to be. Gear from 00-0.75 BD + a few bigger pieces for the belay.

Climb a grade 15 crack for 8 meters to gain the big ledge. A wicked striking corner. Classic. Maybe the best 26 at the factory.

Start up the initial corner of The Reason, step right on ledge, then steep and pumpy shallow corner to a rooflet then series of tricky side pulls to an anchor at half height.

Layback the pillar. Up the arête. Not that good.

Same start as Street Fighter. Head R at the top of the chimney.

Grovel up the chimney until you can get out onto the L face. Power out on the underclings and then up. A bit of a power endurance classic.

Direct Start into Street Fighter. V10 if your 6 and a half feet tall. Harder if shorter.

Climb the first 3 bolts of Antimatter then break R and up to join Street Fighter. A bit sharp, and just adds a little bit. Probably grade 26 to join Street Fighter.

A classic of the grade. Climb up flakes/jugs till about two meters from the roof. A tricky section leads into the roof. Then suck up some air and crank around on big side pulls and glassy feet. Super warm up. For those whom it's not a warm up it could be 24.

For when you get bored of Antimatter. At the roof of Antimatter head L past 1 bolt via some moves.

Climb Power Of The Percolator until you reach the roof with a fixed hanger at about half hight. Climb R and finish up Antimatter. Really fun, worth doing. You will be sucking up for air if you are unfit.

This could be the best 28 in Tassie. A must do!

Start as for Power of the Percolator but head L. Lowers off the 2nd last bolt and needs to be extended.

The obvious corner to the Right of Kim's Project. Up past two bolts into the corner. Up this to the lower-off for Kim's Project. Gear from tips to #1 Camalot.

Up the slab. Looks classic. All Kim has to do is get out of his office and climb it. Hopefully the bolts are ok!

Climb Balance of Evil and break R across to join Kim's project. A bit cheeky but a good route.

A bit tricky down low. Up the R facing corner to the top.

Many locals continue to use community run website thesarvo.com for crag/route updates and noting any access issues. The associated app can be downloaded and used offline!

http://thesarvo.com/confluence/display/thesarvo/Tasmania

Gerry Narkowicz also produces hardcopy guides to numerous venues across the state via the 'Climb Tasmania' website

https://climbtasmania.com.au/collections/frontpage

Exiting the corner of Tekken to join Balance of Evil via. a two move V9 boulder problem.

Closed Project atmo.

The awesome shallow corner to the right of the obvious choss ramp. Up this via. some very technical moves a bit uncharacteristic of the factory. Lower off the last bolt (with ring) in the corner for the 27. Exiting onto the slab is guarded by a hard boulder problem of around V8/V9 and is still a closed project. Finish up Balance of evil. A #2 camalot can be used before the first bolt but is not essential.

Writing up as is because the only other sport climb around this grade at the factory is Street Fighter so this is a welcome addition.

10 meters R of the fixed walking rope. Up the amazing crack to a rest, then up the hanging groove. Wires and friends up to #3.

Follow a series of left trending flakes just past a ridiculously thin crack-line. Most of the rock on this climb looks dubious from the ground, but in fact it is pristine quality except for the first move. The upper section is reasonably sustained.

Closed

Closed

Climb up the start of the arch. Break left to gain small corner system. Crazy shouldery stemming to reach the jug out L. Traverse R on edges to a good rest then to the belay past some funky moves. One hell of a good route.

Classic intro to the harder climbs at the Star Factory. Up a nice looking corner to a big ledge. Then up thin groove. The moves are insecure and the feet are slick and mean.

Line left of Ferret on a Leash

Named after the route stole the Kim’s front teeth while he was bolting it. Start at the end of the fixed walking rope. Climb up past 3 tricky boulder problems. A good one.

Climb the Tooth Fairy until the big hanging flake at half hight and then break out L past a bit of a kung fu pinch move. Powerful crux section.

One sick project, closed.

Head up easy ground to half height. Head R and up past a rad punch to the biggest under cling in Tassie. Squirm up the groove to reach the belay. Super classic.

Same start as Entrée but go direct. When the route steepens, the hard climbing begins! (skip dogging bolts on redpoint). To some jugs. Then go and get it. A very nice and sharp hold. Head out L to reach the chains. Come Get Me!

The far LH side of the wall. 8 bolts up a nice yellow arête, with a tricky finish.

This is a little goodie. Up the fixed rope to the base. Climb the amazing face above with some dynamic moves downwards and left towards the top. Could go direct at the last bolt, but so far every one has gone L on the bigger holds. The best 27 the Factory has to offer.

The sharp arête right of Maxwell's Demon. Start bridging on slab and wall, then up slighty right of arête. Crimpy.

Up, traverse R via mono(!), up. Stand on top to finish. Preclip the 2nd bolt if you like your ankles as they are.

Water polished granite. Climb Me. This gem of a climb is a must for people who like climbing good routes. A hard boulder to get to the 4th draw will keep the masses away, and the mantel at the top will keep the boulderers crying. Good conditions help.

The line 4m L of Astro Boy. V6 start, then awesome climbing.

The name says it all! Just enjoy - if you can get in the groove of the style. A little cruxy at one point, but once the flared hand jam is reached the fun heats up.

Excellent climbing with two insecure crux sections. Starts for Simply the Best and Finish up Hubris.

Gear required for upper section is a selection of cams from #.3 to #2.

U's heading up and right from Simply the Best overlap. Closed.

Garry's project heading up and left from Simply the Best overlap. Closed.

Start up Augmentium and at the higher of the two traversing cracks bust out right via some committing moves.

Traverse R climbing past Simply The Best. Clipping the bolts on that route is a serious no-no. Continue to the flaring corner for the crux. Continue up the crack to the top.

You need at least a #4 cam for the bottom offwidth. The rest of the route takes all sorts of gear. Double rack from green alien to #2 camalots with a bunch of slings or just use two ropes.

The obvious crack splitting the wall 5m left of Simply the Best.

Probably the best trad climb in Tasmania.

Closed

The well-defined R facing corner system toward the lower end of the tier. Perfect rock. Perfect position. 1. 18m 13. Climb the corner to the ledge under the roof. 2.18m 21. Up to the roof then follow an airy traverse R until the roof fades into a faint depression. Tricky moves to the top.

Named after the one and only. Looks easy but! Climb up the radtastic left leaning flared crack, on some smears and a few more smears. Very good.

Faceted blocky arête to same belay as Seal Launch.

Climb a dogleg groove just R of a distinct arête formation.

The arête and RH Face left of seal launch, delicate technical climbing mostly on the face past 3 FH lead to jugs past another FH to a DBB.

Start just L of Technicality. Reachy moves in the thin seam to get off the ground lead to some big moves off big holds on immaculate rock. 5 bolts + lower-off. (This route goes straight up thin seam around the corner from Technicality, lower-off is off a small ledge at about the same height as Technicality).

The following routes are on the flat slightly slabby face characterised by large (often loose) crystals, the rock quallity is not perfect but the unique large crystals make for interesting climbing.

Next route R of Holy Ghost. Up steep wall on good holds with tricky moves gaining slab. Up on big crystals to the top. 10 bolts + lower-off.

The RH line of bolts with a reachy crux high up.

The central line of bolts with a tricky slab finish.

Follow the LH line of bolts on the highly featured wall at the far LH end of the cliff.

The Men's Gallery is a little separate from the main Star Factory crag. To get to the Men's Gallery walk down the ramp at the far Lside of the Star Factory to a rap station. From here climb the short wall above via 4 bolts (grade 12) to the belay on the ledge (directly below Doug's Power Climb). To descend rap off the rings, but try to avoid letting the ropes fall down the crack below!

The furthest line R on this bit of the wall. Power up steep wall (crux) to good rest. Continue easily, with tricky move at half height. 9 U-bolts + lower-offs. Best done with the first two bolts pre-clipped.

Middle line of bolts between Red Hill Town and Wild Winds. Closed.

Starts 2m R of the belay on the Men's Gallery ledge. Up face and corner system via some unlikely looking moves. A really good resistance route.

Starts 4m left of Wild Winds. Up on good holds to hard boulder problem, then easily to the top. Excellent climbing.

About 6m left of the normal belay is a DBB (FHs) on the sloping ledge.

Closed

Closed