Travelled from Brisbane for the weekend to get on this. Much preparation and rehearsal paid off, as the ropework and Tyroleans gave us no difficulty whatsoever.
One guide indicates that the crux pitch is the swim. I will vehemently disagree with that. P1 was nails at 18. Committing, insecure and strenuous, it was dripping wet at the bottom. Good gear the whole way up if you can place it. Heady stepping around the roof.
The swim was disappointingly uneventful. Waited for a set to finish, jumped in on the back of a wave and gunned it. Grabbed the kelp before the next wave came in, then just delicately up the wet rock to the anchor. Didn't get scared enough the first time around so jumped back in.
P2 was beautiful, gorgeous jams.
P3 had me cursing the inbred Tasmanian guidebook authors who couldn't tell the difference between a grade 16 squeeze chimney and a grade 19+ offwidth. That was darned scary, shuffling my 6 up the whole way with no other gear anywhere it would keep me off the deck. Spent the whole time gazing longingly through the offwidth at the lovely corner on the other side. When Angie followed she simply popped through the very bottom of the squeeze where it's wider and climbed the opposite side, at which point I realised my vitriol was misplaced.
P4 had a few engaging moments and was goodfun.
Used the upper (P3) anchors for the return Tyrolean as we had thoroughly rehearsed this, and rapping further down just to jug back uphill seemed like entirely too much hard work. Deserves all its stars.
- with
Angie
Travelled from Brisbane for the weekend to get on this. Much preparation and rehearsal paid off, as the ropework and Tyroleans gave us no difficulty whatsoever.
One guide indicates that the crux pitch is the swim. I will vehemently disagree with that. P1 was nails at 18. Committing, insecure and strenuous, it was dripping wet at the bottom. Good gear the whole way up if you can place it. Heady stepping around the roof.
The swim was disappointingly uneventful. Waited for a set to finish, jumped in on the back of a wave and gunned it. Grabbed the kelp before the next wave came in, then just delicately up the wet rock to the anchor. Didn't get scared enough the first time around so jumped back in.
P2 was beautiful, gorgeous jams.
P3 had me cursing the inbred Tasmanian guidebook authors who couldn't tell the difference between a grade 16 squeeze chimney and a grade 19+ offwidth. That was darned scary, shuffling my 6 up the whole way with no other gear anywhere it would keep me off the deck. Spent the whole time gazing longingly through the offwidth at the lovely corner on the other side. When Angie followed she simply popped through the very bottom of the squeeze where it's wider and climbed the opposite side, at which point I realised my vitriol was misplaced.
P4 had a few engaging moments and was good fun.
Used the upper (P3) anchors for the return Tyrolean as we had thoroughly rehearsed this, and rapping further down just to jug back uphill seemed like entirely too much hard work. Deserves all its stars.