Increasing traffic means that this route has cleaned up quite nicely. With more traffic it should become as good as the Dribble but at a higher grade and with more varied climbing.
The climb originally included a grade 18 finish through the capping overhangs which Shaggy didn't think worth writing up.
Start: Start below a cleaned streak about 15 metres right of 'Broken Song'. There may be the remains of a cairn.
40m (14) Climb slabby weakness through bulge to ledge, continue straight up to big ledge. A very good pitch.
35m (13) Step R onto ridge, follow straight through bulge, passing weird holes 2 m to your L. Follow large flake to gain R hand of twin cracks to another bulge, pull this and belay on top.
35m (13) Climb straight through 2 juggy bulges following obvious weaknesses. Continue up to gain ledge via yet another bulge.
-m (-) Finish by climbing diagonally L to meet syrinx final pitch and finish up that or alternatively wander off to the right.
