Showing all 21 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | ||
---|---|---|---|---|---|
19 | ★★ Bicentennial Crack
Approximately 10 meters left (walk down and around corner) of Questionable Paternity. Climb the 8 metre hand crack to a ledge, and then up an offwidth crack which gets smaller and smaller the further you go up. Can be done in two pitches. Easy walk off from midway ledge if you only want to climb the first pitch. Multiple trad belay options at ledge and on top of the boulder. | 22m | |||
21 | ★★ Questionable Paternity
The north-facing, left-leaning offwidth. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Never Tell Me The Odds. An amazing climb that gradually fades to fist, then to hands, then fingers but doesn't let up! Anchors installed for safety March 2018. FFA: steven wilson FA: steven wilson | 17m | |||
26 | ★★★ Never Tell Me The Odds
Named after Chris' dog, Han Solo. The huge, overhanging offwidth facing east when you enter the area. Difficulty will change depending on size of hands/legs/feet etc. Watch out for the loose(ish) victory jug on left. FA: Chris Ferre, Jan 2018 | 18m | |||
Fortune and Glory Boulder | |||||
15 | Black Silk
Start off lower if 2 boulders 3m left of Wish My... A couple of moves gains the great horizontal black dyke. Mantle this then quest up the black runnel above. | ||||
17 | ★ Wish my ... was This Thin
Start off flake at left/west arete past 2 bolts. Cute. | 7m, 2 | |||
22 | ★ Athol's 22
Retro bolted line that climbs thin and well past 2 bolts. | 7m, 2 | |||
23 | ★ Granite Crumble
The right hand slab is pretty steep. May also have been climbed previously. 2 bolts. | 7m, 2 | |||
23 | ★★ Fortune, Glory, Death
The steep overhanging offwidth at the top of the hill, approx 30 meters behind Never Tell Me The Odds. 23 is probably right. Can be arm barred or lay backed at similar difficulty. Makes a great highball boulder problem with the crux before the lip. FA: Jan 2018 | 16m | |||
Constant Gardener | |||||
17 | Constant Gardener
Located on the East corner of the tor. The crux comes early and is well protected by a bolt (fixed hanger, gain by standing on the small detached flake). From there head up easy slab using the thin crack for pro (slightly fiddly wires and small cams). FA: steven wilson & Ben Emery, 2011 | 7m | |||
19 | Pteradigital
The thin slab between CG and In with a Bad Crowd. 2 bolts. FA: Phil Aarons, 2015 | 7m | |||
18 | In With a Bad Crowd
4 meters to the left of the Constant Gardener is a steep slab climb with two (camouflaged) fixed hangers. FA: Ben Emery, Mark Marriot & steven wilson, 2011 | 7m | |||
Toucan Tor | |||||
12 | Big Beak
The obvious low angle North east arete with 2 carrots and a lower off. | 6m | |||
13 | Toucan Face
Starts at the toe of arete with BB before traversing into the middle of face and up past 2FH. Nice. | ||||
17 | Blue Vein Fruit Loop Gun
The south arete looks great but the one low carrot does not. Apparently you can wiggle some small wires in higher. | 12m | |||
22 | Compression
The lovely north face of Toucan Tor. Athol and Charlie used to solo the lovely boulder start then follow the diagonal left to gain Big Beak. Boulder the start then 2FH up a delicate slab lead to the anchor. | ||||
V2 | Trans Lunar Injection Burn
A favourite solo by Charlie and Athol. Climbs the boulder start of Compression then traverses out the obvious line to the arete. Probably V2 and a bit high. FA: Charlie Creese | ||||
18 | Short 'n' Sharp
Uphill to the west is an obvious diagonal fat hand crack that looks like it would tear a set of crack gloves to shreds before you even pull on. It’s been climbed though god knows why. | 10m | |||
26 | ★★ Out of Africa
Up the West coast of Africa past two ring bolts, then traverse right along the North coast of Africa and into Europe past two fixed hangers. The crux comes between the third and fourth bolt. Has been heavily damaged by the last bush fire. Should still go but probably harder. FA: steven wilson | 14m | |||
16 | ★★ Enter Stage Right
Located around the corner to the right of Out of Africa. Start far right and traverse left above a vegetated ledge past two fixed hangers (keep off the grass, please!). Then up past two more fixed hangers. The direct start up the crumbly flake has been climbed at grade 20. FA: Ben Emery, steven wilson & Naja Da Pila | 12m, 4 | |||
19 | Bicentennial Fa(r)ce
On Downhill face of the huge boulder below Toucan Tor. Medium cam In the pocket then up and right (there is apparently a carrot) to bolt belay. | 19m | |||
16 | Crack on The Hill
Looks better than it climbs! Sharp L leaning crack halfway along ridge between Dino Rocks and Mushroom Rocks. It’s short but takes great cams if you’re so inclined. Bouldered since the dark ages no doubt. |
Showing all 21 routes.