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Routes in Dino Eggs

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Showing all 21 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
19 Bicentennial Crack

Approximately 10 meters left (walk down and around corner) of Questionable Paternity.

Climb the 8 metre hand crack to a ledge, and then up an offwidth crack which gets smaller and smaller the further you go up.

Can be done in two pitches. Easy walk off from midway ledge if you only want to climb the first pitch. Multiple trad belay options at ledge and on top of the boulder.

Trad 22m
21 Questionable Paternity

The north-facing, left-leaning offwidth. Approximately 6 meters to the left of Never Tell Me The Odds. An amazing climb that gradually fades to fist, then to hands, then fingers but doesn't let up! Anchors installed for safety March 2018.

Trad 17m
26 Never Tell Me The Odds

Named after Chris' dog, Han Solo. The huge, overhanging offwidth facing east when you enter the area.

Difficulty will change depending on size of hands/legs/feet etc.

Watch out for the loose(ish) victory jug on left.

FA: Chris Ferre, Jan 2018

Trad 18m
Fortune and Glory Boulder
15 Black Silk

Start off lower if 2 boulders 3m left of Wish My... A couple of moves gains the great horizontal black dyke. Mantle this then quest up the black runnel above.

Boulder
17 Wish my ... was This Thin

Start off flake at left/west arete past 2 bolts. Cute.

Sport 7m, 2
22 Athol's 22

Retro bolted line that climbs thin and well past 2 bolts.

Sport 7m, 2
23 Granite Crumble

The right hand slab is pretty steep. May also have been climbed previously. 2 bolts.

Sport 7m, 2
23 Fortune, Glory, Death

The steep overhanging offwidth at the top of the hill, approx 30 meters behind Never Tell Me The Odds. 23 is probably right. Can be arm barred or lay backed at similar difficulty. Makes a great highball boulder problem with the crux before the lip.

FA: Jan 2018

Trad 16m
Constant Gardener
17 Constant Gardener

Located on the East corner of the tor. The crux comes early and is well protected by a bolt (fixed hanger, gain by standing on the small detached flake). From there head up easy slab using the thin crack for pro (slightly fiddly wires and small cams).

FA: steven wilson & Ben Emery, 2011

Trad 7m
19 Pteradigital

The thin slab between CG and In with a Bad Crowd. 2 bolts.

FA: Phil Aarons, 2015

Sport 7m
18 In With a Bad Crowd

4 meters to the left of the Constant Gardener is a steep slab climb with two (camouflaged) fixed hangers.

FA: Ben Emery, Mark Marriot & steven wilson, 2011

Sport 7m
Toucan Tor
12 Big Beak

The obvious low angle North east arete with 2 carrots and a lower off.

Trad 6m
13 Toucan Face

Starts at the toe of arete with BB before traversing into the middle of face and up past 2FH. Nice.

Sport
17 Blue Vein Fruit Loop Gun

The south arete looks great but the one low carrot does not. Apparently you can wiggle some small wires in higher.

Trad 12m
22 Compression

The lovely north face of Toucan Tor. Athol and Charlie used to solo the lovely boulder start then follow the diagonal left to gain Big Beak. Boulder the start then 2FH up a delicate slab lead to the anchor.

Sport
V2 Trans Lunar Injection Burn

A favourite solo by Charlie and Athol. Climbs the boulder start of Compression then traverses out the obvious line to the arete. Probably V2 and a bit high.

Unknown
18 Short 'n' Sharp

Uphill to the west is an obvious diagonal fat hand crack that looks like it would tear a set of crack gloves to shreds before you even pull on. It’s been climbed though god knows why.

Trad 10m
26 Out of Africa

Up the West coast of Africa past two ring bolts, then traverse right along the North coast of Africa and into Europe past two fixed hangers. The crux comes between the third and fourth bolt. Has been heavily damaged by the last bush fire. Should still go but probably harder.

Sport 14m
16 Enter Stage Right

Located around the corner to the right of Out of Africa. Start far right and traverse left above a vegetated ledge past two fixed hangers (keep off the grass, please!). Then up past two more fixed hangers. The direct start up the crumbly flake has been climbed at grade 20.

FA: Ben Emery, steven wilson & Naja Da Pila

Sport 12m, 4
19 Bicentennial Fa(r)ce

On Downhill face of the huge boulder below Toucan Tor. Medium cam In the pocket then up and right (there is apparently a carrot) to bolt belay.

Trad 19m
16 Crack on The Hill

Looks better than it climbs! Sharp L leaning crack halfway along ridge between Dino Rocks and Mushroom Rocks. It’s short but takes great cams if you’re so inclined. Bouldered since the dark ages no doubt.

Trad

Showing all 21 routes.

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