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Summary

Trad climbing area in Mt Victoria. Most routes require 2 ropes to get off.

Description

Odin Head is a great trad climbing area. Most routes are a healthy 40-45m with some jaw dropping lines. The climbing is high quality and provides the Blue Mountains with another quality trad climbing venue but it is protected from the crazy westerlies. Half of the headland faces East North East so some routes can provide pleasant shade on those hot afternoons.

Most routes require abseiling on double ropes to get off, unless you want to walk down the access gully. There are plenty of trees to use to abseil get back to the ground.

Access issues

Odin Head is located in the Blue Mountains National Park.

Approach

Drive 1.6km along Victoria Falls Road. Park at a little turn off on the right.The route follows an old fire trail which can clearly be seen in the ariel photo. Fallen logs have been placed along the entire length of the fire trail. From the carpark follow fire trail east, at first turnoff take the right hand branch (currently yellow tape on ground of left hand branch near junction). Continue down slight slope to swampy clearing with views north to the Grose valley, up slight slope. At the next intersection take the left branch and after just over a kilometre from the car park turn left at the 3rd intersection, follow ridge NNE till fire trail ends. Continue through open bush, stay on the crest of the ridge, occasional cairns. After 300 metres you will see large ant nest, continue a further 50 metres then turn right, eastish, and descend ridge past another ants nest and cairns to a col. From here its a further 150 metres slightly uphill to cliff edge.You can rap from trees here. Better for your first visit, from the col go 1/2 way to the cliff then descend a gully on the right, southish. Follow this gully to the base of the crag. Climbs are now to the north (left)

Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains

Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.

Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.

If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.

It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!

The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.

History

View historical timeline

Bruce Cameron and Keith Bell are believed to have visited Odin Head back in the 80’s. Ian Brown and Tom Williams climbed the plum line Sharp Shooter in 94.There was more activity here in 2004 by Ant Rivers and Co.

Evan Wells inspired the revival in recent years, in which Mark Wilson, Taib Ezekiel and Marty Doolan finished off most of the other prominent lines.

Tags

Routes

Add route(s) Add topo Reorder Bulk edit
Grade Route
1 19
2 17

The first route you come across after descending the gully. Start 5m right of un climbed thin roof crack behind large block. P1 - Follow the nice finger crack which turns into a hand crack and ends in the small cave, gear belay. P2 – Two #4 Cams make it more enjoyable,Climb out through roof crux and up easy corner to top. Tree belay.

FA: T. Ezekiel, Marty Doolan & M. Wilson, Oct 2015

Splitter hand crack. Hard start into flake/hand crack. Up this into tight chimney to ledge. Blast up the hand crack to top.

FA: Ant Rivers & L.Freeman, 2004

FFA: T.Imber & E.Leong, 2004

Start 20m right of True Dreams. Up off width crack into corner. Climb out through roof on excellent gear and follow the hand crack to the arête. Tricky move up arête past 5 bolts to top.

FA: Mark Wilson, Marty Doolan & T. Ezekiel, Oct 2015

Alternate start to Sharp shooter. Short, thin pumpy finger crack.

FA: Marty Doolan, 11 Mar 2016

Fantastic climbing up an intimidating line. Start 20m right of DWMC at base of a steep hand crack. Follow hand crack up into roof. Jamb through the roof and follow the splitter crack into large pod. Climb up pod into second roof. Swing out of the roof into the tight hand crack to top. Tree belay. Old School 20 or new school 22

FA: First recorded ascent, Ian Brown & Tom Williams, 1994

The best warm up route at the crag. Start 5m right of SS. Follow hand crack up to large horizontal break. Traverse out to arête and drift slightly left up wall to bolt. Now head back to the arête and climb its right side past 4 bolts to tree belay.

FA: Marty Doolan, Mark Wilson & T.Ezekiel, Oct 2015

P1 13. Up RH crack, into chimney for gear, then onto slabby nose. Up to loose blocks and crack belay. P2 15. Up nice leaning R-­‐facing corner to terrace and tree. P3 10. Up crack in middle of slabby wall, left a bit at top.

FA: Ant Rivers & L.Morrison, 2004

Great bridging up a wide crack. Start 100m right of MATA. Take at least one #5 and selection of big gear. Up corner with committing move of a small ledge. Tree belay

FA: T. Ezekiel & M. Wilson, Sep 2015

Crack to the right of Hunger games, it is in the same little alcove. Odens’ version of flake crack. You will need a 5 and six for the top. Lower offs at the top, and 60m rope gets you to the ground on stretch. L/H variant has been climbed and is thrutchier than it looks

FA: Peter Lowe & T Ezekiel, Jun 2017

Arete left of Joe Blake. Start up chossy wall on the left and traverse into arete to large thred. Up past wire and cam to ledge. Tricky moves past 2 BR to another break, then continue up arete with ok gear and 4 more bolts. 2 RB belay as for The Joe Blake. Two ropes needed to rap off or do second pitch.

FA: T.Ezekiel, M. Wilson & Marty Doolan, Oct 2015

1 19
2 18

Classic of the crag. Start 5m right of AA. P1 - Climb short corner to ledge. Follow the fine hand crack, which tightens to fingers through small overlap to ledge. Two bolt belay. P2 – Up corner to top. Tree belay

FA: J.Kuginis & Ant Rivers, 2004

FFA: P2 T.Ezekiel, M.Wilson & Marty Doolan, 1 Sep 2015

Thin finger crack 5m left of ABOTS. Join PV at the horizontal or continue up the wall to join ABOTS at the tree.

FA: Mark Wilson & T.Ezekiel, Oct 2015

A fine looking arête when looking across from Joe Blake. Start 20m right of JB. Up blocky corner for a few metres to horizontal break. Traverse left all the way out to the arête. Follow sharp arête to the top. Tree belay. Single rack of cams to #3

FA: Mark Wilson, T.Ezekiel & Marty Doolan, Oct 2015

Up blocky corner to tree. Follow the crack up the right wall to tree belay. Not sure if this is the two pitch climb done by A.rivers, J.Wilde

FA: Ant Rivers, J & J.Wilde, 2004

Arete to the right. Start up hand crack to ledge and then onto the arete. Lower off rings at the top and a 60m rope gets you back to the ground.

FA: T Ezekiel & M Cavazzini, Oct 2017

P1 25m 16 Hands to tree Anchor P2 25m 13

FA: A.Rivers & J.Wilde, 2004

Same start as Munch, then wide crack on the right.

FA: A.Rivers, 2004

Jambing, easy finish on 2nd ledge.

FFA: T.Imber & E.Leong, 2004

Short finger crack

FA: A.Rivers & T.Imber, 2004

P1 17 Crack and up wall to block above tree (RH pikers variant at 15), P2 11 Ramp and crack P3 14 Along ledge to L and up steep blocky passage.

FA: C.Ward, Ant Rivers & S.Dare, 2006

Activity

Check out what is happening in Odin Head.