Odin Head All Trad climbing21 routes in crag
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Trad climbing area in Mt Victoria. Most routes require 2 ropes to get off.
Odin Head is a great trad climbing area. Most routes are a healthy 40-45m with some jaw dropping lines. The climbing is high quality and provides the Blue Mountains with another quality trad climbing venue but it is protected from the crazy westerlies. Half of the headland faces East North East so some routes can provide pleasant shade on those hot afternoons.
Most routes require abseiling on double ropes to get off, unless you want to walk down the access gully. There are plenty of trees to use to abseil get back to the ground.
Odin Head is located in the Blue Mountains National Park.
Drive 1.6km along Victoria Falls Road. Park at a little turn off on the right.The route follows an old fire trail which can clearly be seen in the ariel photo. Fallen logs have been placed along the entire length of the fire trail. From the carpark follow fire trail east, at first turnoff take the right hand branch (currently yellow tape on ground of left hand branch near junction). Continue down slight slope to swampy clearing with views north to the Grose valley, up slight slope. At the next intersection take the left branch and after just over a kilometre from the car park turn left at the 3rd intersection, follow ridge NNE till fire trail ends. Continue through open bush, stay on the crest of the ridge, occasional cairns. After 300 metres you will see large ant nest, continue a further 50 metres then turn right, eastish, and descend ridge past another ants nest and cairns to a col. From here its a further 150 metres slightly uphill to cliff edge.You can rap from trees here. Better for your first visit, from the col go 1/2 way to the cliff then descend a gully on the right, southish. Follow this gully to the base of the crag. Climbs are now to the north (left)
Ethic inherited from Blue Mountains
Although sport climbing is well entrenched as the most popular form of Blueys climbing, mixed-climbing on gear and bolts has generally been the rule over the long term. Please try to use available natural gear where possible, and do not bolt cracks or potential trad climbs.
Because of the softness of Blue Mountains sandstone, bolting should only be done by those with a solid knowledge of glue-in equipping. A recent fatality serves as a reminder that this is not an area to experiment with bolting.
If you do need to top rope, please do it through your own gear as the wear on the anchors is both difficult and expensive to maintain.
It would be appreciated if brushing of holds becomes part of your climbing routine - do it with a soft bristled brush and never a steel brush!
The removal of vegetation - both from the cliff bases and the climbs - is not seen as beneficial to aesthetics of the environment nor to our access to it. However, the fast growing scrub can conceal walking tracks in mere months, so bringing a pair of secaturs and pruning as you walk is a good way of helping out with the constant task of track maintenance. Some appropriately discreet pruning is a far better alternative then track braiding (which causes far more damage). It's also a good warmup for your forearms! However, do so only on Council land and not in the National Park.
Bruce Cameron and Keith Bell are believed to have visited Odin Head back in the 80’s. Ian Brown and Tom Williams climbed the plum line Sharp Shooter in 94.There was more activity here in 2004 by Ant Rivers and Co.
Evan Wells inspired the revival in recent years, in which Mark Wilson, Taib Ezekiel and Marty Doolan finished off most of the other prominent lines.
Check out what is happening in Odin Head.