Routes in Ikara, Victorialand, Odin Head, Thor Head for selected grade

Big orange corner opposite the detached block. Marked as a sport route but surely it needs some trad?

1. (24) Corner to belay under roof.

2. (23) Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.

Start 30m right of TM under the obvious soaring square arete.

1. 24m (20) Corner to bolt, left to DBB on arete. 4 carrots, #3 cam.

2. 35m (24) Arete to chain. 9 carrots, 2 FHs.

3. 28m (24) Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete to DBB. 5 carrots. To rap from here take hero loops (or maybe something more permanent). Rap 30m to chain, then 50m to ground.

Arete 30m right of CT. Carrots & FHs to TBB.

20m R of WM.

1. Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby.

2. Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack.

The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'I Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless.

Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)

1. 25m (22) Up chossy flake (scary start) and leftwards up featured wall past a few old bash in carrots to belay ledge at double rings.

2. 50m (24) Climb nice orange ripply face on right side of arete past a band of choss to good stance at 25m. Ignore the nice shiny u-bolts going right, and climb the dirtier arete direct on old carrots.

The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag.

Line of FH with DUB's starting at base of wall far Right (looking in). Rap down as for Baileys then walk north on foot ledge for 15 meters to large flake at end of ledge. If needing to walk out walk North up the valley along base, ignore first 'possible' ramp and continue until spur meets you then hike up left , poke about with a few very short easy scrambles and walk up side of hill back to top lookout. Walking south toward old shale mine track is dangerous, difficult and not recomended.

1. 42m (23) The highlight. Up wall, step right into corner and fingery gaston crux to steep jugs. Up balancey and airy arette to triple ubolt hanging belay (bring a comfy harness?!). A small etrier or long sling to step into may give leader some kidney relief whilst belaying. Bring 20 quickdraws.

2. 26m (24) Immediately technical and oozey getting established in fused corner/slab then exponentially steeper and difficult right to the last moves. Double U bolt belay.

3. 26m (24) Up face, carefully through some choss to steep over hanging red wall trending left (crux) and work arete. De-pump on some good holds before final mantle. DUB Anchors set back beneath pitch 4. Set yourself up to belay back on edge for visual support as it is the hardest steepest and most exposed pitch.

4. 16m (15) Vertical hiking up dirty corner avoiding wall under lookout for anchor discretion. Step right near top and belay from tree backed up with single U bolt.

Unremarkable face and slab leading to excellent steep crack headwall, finishing in a burly mantle. Locate rap chain above track approx 20m left of Optimum Beer level. Rap 40m on seperate rap line with a good rope protector for top edge, hitching a sling on tree at top proper for something to clip after topping out route. Rap to large ledge 8m above ground and use U bolt for belay. An ikea bag for climbing rope is advised as ledge is dirty and sloping. Place a #3 cam in crack to the left , then climb this, moving to the right at base of vague ramp on grey slab. Up this placing gear. Pass two ubolts to large break, placing #6, then up to bolt. From here up through steepness , spanning left to base of headwall crack, then to top. All gear was placed on lead during first ascent. (After pink pointing then stripping). A bag with a jacket, water, and a snack is usefull and can be hauled on rap line when day is done.

Line of U's to single U lower off. Left of NBT