Routes in Mount Victoria Area for selected grade

Start: 'Arete' (carrots) 30m left of Voyage for Two.

1. 30m (23) Right and then left side of arete. Bring #3 and/or #5 cam for the runout.

2. 20m (24) Arete and flake, right to small roof, up then back to the arete and up.

Great committing climbing on quality rock. Start as for Joseph, climb the original first pitch, instead of going left following crack line, head straight middle of the pillar. Find only gear. Then head left onto arete and up until on top of pillar. Rap off Vinyl Idl bolts.

The line of rusty carrots a few meters left of Joslab at the blunt arete.

Roof above C.

Bad fixed pro! Start 1m left of M.

Climbs the crack then the top head wall above. 6 bolt brackets for the climb and 2 for the anchor. Rebolted 26/5/2012.

Not good. Start at chain on Faith.

Undercut arete 6m left of Charity. (Marked TGSDS). Stick clip. Old carrots.

Arete 8m left again.

1. 15m (23) Crack to arete.

2. 20m (16) Right, over bulge and up to ledge.

3. 25m (-) Crack, slab to the left. Corner.

Climb the face 3-6m R of Amen Corner. Start as for Minotaur. Joins Psychodrama for a few bolts in the middle then heads back left. Mostly (dodgy old) carrots, take brackets. Same lower-off as Amen Corner.

Start: 5m left of TSLA.

1. 15m (15) Wandery grey slab to belay from bolt, piton and small cams/wires at base of knifeblade crack.

2. 35m (24) A hard start (pull on 2nd bolt to make this 23M1) to gain slab. #0.3, #0.75 and small wires to traverse line. Hard traverse left to bolt (#1 and #2 cams - long runners advised!). Funky face climbing to rooflet, stemming corner and stance below final boulder (#0.4 and #0.75 cams). Bolt, crimpy boulder problem, and run it out up easing arete to the top. Belay from tree.

Starts for Disinclined for 2m then up groove and corner on left edge of wall. Don't underestimate the last couple of moves - it's steep!

Popular and dry pumper. Climb Flaming Youth then continue direct up the overhung wall to top of boulder.

Thin face "slab" just right of Genesis.

1. 25m (24) 7 rings to lower-off. Top is runout - medium cams may help.

2. 25m (24) Left, through hard bulge, and up wall past a large thread, a med cam, and 3 old carrot bolts, then run out to top. Belay anchor from glue in stainless carrot set well back on clifflet behind, and boulder closer to edge.

Steep power packet. All rings to lower offs.

The middle of the orange wall. Locate double Ubolts set back from the edge of the main lookout spot (and near two old rusty dynabolts). Fix rope and rap straight down wall to full hanging belay about 15m above the ground. Route starts with a little traverse left then up gorgeous orange face, through small rooflet and finishes up face just left of corner system on fragile unusual holds.

Middle route

Right route

1. 12m (24) Traverse jugs to arete, up past move to hands-free rest then crux. Tricky onsight.

2. 20m (23) Another pouncy crux pulling lip to nice face moments and secret holds over hanging arete.

Start on yellow wall under bulges 7m R of HKC. Athletic moves through roof to a moment of indecision... left or right? Both options are bolted. Then an 8m runout for no good reason, and a nice finish.

Was a long standing project - then Lee came up with the bright idea to just use the arete rather than avoid it.

Fiendish thin slimp ladder. Start at chalky flake then up dark orange wall with forearms increasingly fading.

The two bolt extension to Work Injury adds even more pump.

Exposed and steep arete - all ringbolts. Best to use double ropes to stop rope cutting potential as some of the moves are on the opposite side of the arete to the bolts.

To get to the start belay, either climb first pitch of 'Attila', or fix a rope and just rap in from above (easiest) to tiny ledge belay (double rings) about 6m left of the arete. Traverse out right above void (3 rings) - then up the black arete.

The right arete of the buttress. Start either for for Screen Gems (original start), or Long Distance Relationships (better).

1. Up and traverse leftwards to belay on arete.

2. Up technical arete to top.

Start: Bash your way to the right side of the next buttress. This arete looks pretty good from Teenager Buttress!

1. 30m (24 M1) Aid on carrot, left under the roof then right. Up wall and arete to break. Up to belay on ledge.

2. 35m (22) Up the arete.

One of the mountains' finest arete routes - that can be led in either two shorter pitches with a hanging belay - or one long pitch (long runners required). Route was fully rebolted with rings in 2022 - no bolt plates required unless you want to clip one of the old carrots on the halfway belay stance.

Start under the middle of the awesome front face of the buttress - which is where the abseil lands you. The rubbly stance at the base is above a steep drop into the jungle, but doesn't really require setting an anchor. The belayer can just lean on the tree.

1. 28m (24) Start up poor/dubious rock for 10m (high first bolt left of the small ledge). Traverse left to the arête (improving rock quality). Now strenuously up the arête to an optional hanging belay, off 1 new ring bolt, and 2 old carrots 1 of which is badly positioned and cantilevers the carabiner. Consider pulling up to clip the first lead bolt on pitch 2 to beef up this belay.

2. 30m (23) A stunning pitch. Continue up the fantastic arête to the cave (extend the bolts before and after the cave). Traverse 5m right from the cave (the FHs going straight up from just to the right of the cave is DHMR), to ledge. Now straight up the awesome steep crimpy face finish.

The middle route on the face. Rebolted 2004

Start: Rap down the centre of the face. Route starts at the chain belay for Teenage 'Werewolf'.

Find the glued on hold next to campus top out and follow chalk to the top.

To the left of screaming on mute, hang start off sloper rail, trend right through pockets and mantle up with slopers to finish.

The line of rings 10m right (facing the cliff) of the ladder through a very steep cave.

Start 2m left of Mechanical Advantage. Up left to flake then through steepness to short corner/arete and up face to anchors

Rope up at Nuklunda and get a belay to walk right along ledge to belay near the end, then bring second across. Probably also approachable from the other end, from The Sweat. Now do the route and get exposed!

Walk across the 1st creek and over the hill on the red shale track, then down into the 2nd gully just before XXXX bouldering. Hard start and hard finish in a very photogenic spot.

Left line off the shared start. A fine route. Climb Passing Wind to its third bolt and then step left and head straight up the line of rings. Gentle for the grade.

Good quality trad climbing. Two very different pitches. A ground up ascent would be very possible and memorable but it could be worth checking how mossy the upper half is before committing.

To access this route abseil 45m off a tree anchor on the southern arete to the base of the cliff. Start at the crack in the obvious corner/groove just left of arete.

1. 33m (24) Climb initial corner stepping right onto arete a few meters up. Onto ledge (very thin gear) followed by tricky moves to gain good jams and jugs. Follow jugs up and to the right away from the hollow arete. Go straight up the wall following the wear steak, initially using the flake to the right and placing gear (sometimes thin) in horizontals. Belay on obvious ledge.

2. 12m (23) Exciting little headwall. Climb 5m off the belay to the only gear on the pitch, proceed on to and over rooflet to some slopey moves. If you are unsure of your ability it may be worth scoping and chalking this bit on the way down.

Thin wall to under roof then right and up bouldery finish. Stickclip first bolt recommended.

Start: As for 'Glucosamine', then right and up.

Once the hardest route at the crag.

Start: Marked.

4m left of Lishenbak. One old bolt above sandy cave up high.

The ringbolted wall left of Refusal - starting from the ledge. Appears to climb the abandoned upper headwall that was bolted as part of a direct finish to Moss' Effort. Slabby climbing to third bolt and then up. Runout between 2nd and 3rd in the flake section (be careful). Originally graded 22 - but recent attempts have it pegged at more 24+ - possibly missing a hold between first two bolts.

Perhaps not...? Definitely! Once a test piece, now forgotten, and even more testing. Take micro to medium cams, wires and optional sling for a dubious thread. Thin, technical, unprotected start eases off eventually...

Up left to slight horizontal weakness then right across to good gear in horizontal, harder direct start possible. Up via breaks and gear. Boulder blank wall and left to breaks, then up easier grade finish. Direct finish possible via clean streak, or easier to right of groove. Belay possible on small wall over the top.

Start as for SF, marked. Up to traverse then left across wall passing AoR to bolt then up to fixed hanger then bolt and traverse L to EW rest ledge and finish up EW.

Super sustained slab with a welcome picnic cave halfway. Rebolted 2004.

The only reason you really came up here. 2 bolts to nowhere. The easier climbing above is unprotected and dirty.

Jugs until they run out. Starts 2m left of Ashes to Ashes up the left side of the wall - and 17m right of the gully. Generally considered soft for the grade (get on it people!).

Shared start with CAC up slab, then stay right (in the corner), around overlap to DRBB.

The leftmost route at ground level, at the bottom of the fixed rope. At the third ringbolt you can either go left and up to slot - at least grade 25 (medium cam required) or straight up on bolts and small flake, then finish left and up Nocturnal. It's possible to link into Serious Leather for a more sustained finish. The original 1988 version of this route actually finished way left and up Popular Opinion.

The logical finish. Instead of traversing left into top of Popular Opinion at the 3rd bolt, go straight up the easy ring bolted wall (shared with Nocturnal).

Start on 2 crimps, pop up to line of rails and traverse out to jugs for top match.

Start as for Wolfgang low and move up to the horizontal break and then big move out left to finish jug of ‘meat Bishop’.

Sit start. Use arete, make a long move, climb to the lip and mantle up to finish.

A fun little number up next to the big gum leaning against the boulder. Sit start.

Follow the obvious flake lines through much technicality to the top.

Dec 2012 update: ledge between bolt 1 and 2 has disintergrated. Now dirty and needs attention before its climbable again.

Awesome.

Start: The 1st route on the main wall.

2m R of RAR.

Roof and wall 5m right of Zowie

3m right of Puppy Fat.

5m right of Chicken Skin. Popular. Thugging and zig-zagging through steep stuff. Back-jump to clean.

Ah Ma...you shoulda seen it, you shoulda seen it. Start 4m right of G.

At the right hand end of the cave just before Turkey Slap. A few jumpy jumps on some nice jugs will take you to the top.

Start on the elevated block 10m R of the HOY arête. Trend a bit left off the block then up the face via desperate slab crux to the middle of the big, but easy, roof.

The middle line, 5m R. Originally 22, but has crept up as thrutch skills have crept down.

A nice looking line. Quite fun.

Start: 1m right.

40m R of MG at the L end of the blank looking wall.

Start R of MS. Stickclip first bolt , hard footless first moves from pocket leads to funky climbing.

Bouldery and steep , bolted and climbed in heavy rain. Warm up for climbing above. Stickclip first draw. Stays dry.

Independent route 20 meters left of main cave leading up across low roof (crux) then up and left to nice moves and lower off.

Starts up corner then through series of rooflets. Pass Bitchymen loweroffs with a big move Work both sides of arete at the crux, then fight the pump leading left to nice red headwall. A few extendable draws help with rope drag.

Start: The first route on the upper tier. Extend bolts 4,5,7&8.

Up the blunt arete then the sheer face above. Take a long-ish draw for the 4th or 5th bolt which is tucked in on a ledge.

Start: Start under the blunt arete on the L side of the vertical wall.

Start: from 'Jug Buzz' pedestal, up left

Excellent orange face with a distinct crux. Hard committing start (or stick clip) and past 4 FHs to anchor chain over top (or use lower offs on the 24 to the left). This is still a mixed route and requires medium size cams.

Line of u's to lower off , L of CPC. Technical

Same start as GTS for three BR's then slightly left and up past two more BR's and 2 FH's into line of rings and steep stellar rock.Awesome sequences! Bring 5 bolt plates.

Big orange corner opposite the detached block. Marked as a sport route but surely it needs some trad?

1. (24) Corner to belay under roof.

2. (23) Left under roof, up thin crack, right to corner and up.

Start 30m right of TM under the obvious soaring square arete.

1. 24m (20) Corner to bolt, left to DBB on arete. 4 carrots, #3 cam.

2. 35m (24) Arete to chain. 9 carrots, 2 FHs.

3. 28m (24) Left edge of cave to roof, right, then the arete to DBB. 5 carrots. To rap from here take hero loops (or maybe something more permanent). Rap 30m to chain, then 50m to ground.

Arete 30m right of CT. Carrots & FHs to TBB.

20m R of WM.

1. Crack to offwidth and belay where crack becomes slabby.

2. Up and right around arete, wall and arete, left at last bolt and up to belay. Rap here or continue up crack.

The left arete of the main wall. Superseded by the new right hand variant 'I Hurt it on the Grapevine'. 2nd pitch is the good one, first is pretty worthless.

Start: Fix 70m rope from trees about 5m south from the summit rock blob. There are double ring bolts on the top of the arete (50m to hanging belay)

1. 25m (22) Up chossy flake (scary start) and leftwards up featured wall past a few old bash in carrots to belay ledge at double rings.

2. 50m (24) Climb nice orange ripply face on right side of arete past a band of choss to good stance at 25m. Ignore the nice shiny u-bolts going right, and climb the dirtier arete direct on old carrots.

The excellent and sustained ringbolted right hand finish to Bailys second pitch. Makes a good climb into a mega route! Splits at 25m point. 50m rope is only just long enough. Extened runners to avoid rope-drag.

Line of FH with DUB's starting at base of wall far Right (looking in). Rap down as for Baileys then walk north on foot ledge for 15 meters to large flake at end of ledge. If needing to walk out walk North up the valley along base, ignore first 'possible' ramp and continue until spur meets you then hike up left , poke about with a few very short easy scrambles and walk up side of hill back to top lookout. Walking south toward old shale mine track is dangerous, difficult and not recomended.

1. 42m (23) The highlight. Up wall, step right into corner and fingery gaston crux to steep jugs. Up balancey and airy arette to triple ubolt hanging belay (bring a comfy harness?!). A small etrier or long sling to step into may give leader some kidney relief whilst belaying. Bring 20 quickdraws.

2. 26m (24) Immediately technical and oozey getting established in fused corner/slab then exponentially steeper and difficult right to the last moves. Double U bolt belay.

3. 26m (24) Up face, carefully through some choss to steep over hanging red wall trending left (crux) and work arete. De-pump on some good holds before final mantle. DUB Anchors set back beneath pitch 4. Set yourself up to belay back on edge for visual support as it is the hardest steepest and most exposed pitch.

4. 16m (15) Vertical hiking up dirty corner avoiding wall under lookout for anchor discretion. Step right near top and belay from tree backed up with single U bolt.

Unremarkable face and slab leading to excellent steep crack headwall, finishing in a burly mantle. Locate rap chain above track approx 20m left of Optimum Beer level. Rap 40m on seperate rap line with a good rope protector for top edge, hitching a sling on tree at top proper for something to clip after topping out route. Rap to large ledge 8m above ground and use U bolt for belay. An ikea bag for climbing rope is advised as ledge is dirty and sloping. Place a #3 cam in crack to the left , then climb this, moving to the right at base of vague ramp on grey slab. Up this placing gear. Pass two ubolts to large break, placing #6, then up to bolt. From here up through steepness , spanning left to base of headwall crack, then to top. All gear was placed on lead during first ascent. (After pink pointing then stripping). A bag with a jacket, water, and a snack is usefull and can be hauled on rap line when day is done.

Line of U's to single U lower off. Left of NBT