Nodes in The Nest

A nice beginner's area with a good range of bolted routes (many on carrots, and could be supplemented with cams) - it catches the afternoon sun so is a good crag for winter. There is some rather nice exposure as it is on the upper cliff.

Most of this area is no longer private property as it was purchased by the NSW State Government in late 2019. A new Plan of Management is being drawn up (2020) with a focus on the area being a regional park, managed by National Parks. The Nest is the only known developed climbing area still on private property.

Much better than it looks. Great route for beginners to top rope.

Start: Up orange wall through grey slab. 4 carrots to DRLO.

The name says it all, this route is actually fun, but needs another bolt between the 2nd and third, otherwise theres about a 5m run out on easy ground.

A weakness/thin crack in the grey wall 5 metres left of FM. Up crack and wall tending R. Up black wall to R to DBB.

Pockets/seam and black wall on good rock. Up pockets/seam 2 RBs, over bulge RB, up black wall, FH to DFLO as for ETJ.

Start: 4m R of ETJ at thin crack and pockets.

A nice wall climb, better and harder than it looks. Up wall passing 4 BR and FH through top bulge to DFLO at very top of cliff.

Start: 6 M R of Fibro Majestic.

A good wall and rib. This climb celebrates Harry’s 80th birthday and over 50 years of climbing. Start: 3 metres right of H. Up wall with 3 BR and cams if you desire. Up to DFLO at ledge.

optional cams

A little bit dirty... but a good little route. Start 2m right of 80 Great Years. Climb the rounded outer edge of the grey wall to 80 GY anchors. Spaced small/medium cams and thread.

Pleasant climbing on a hanging slab/arête. Up, verging right onto orange hanging slab/arête. 4 BR to DFLO as for TE.

Start: 3m left of TE.

Great climbing on a featured orange/grey wall. Up MMC stepping left onto wall at FH. Up, passing cam (BD. C4. 2) and 2 FH to DFLO.

Start: As for MMC. Obvious orange wall.

A great little corner. First route completed. Good rock and gear. Start: The obvious easy corner crack L of grey slab. Up cnr. moving R at top. Tree belay or right to DRBLO for slab routes.

B and BE Cameron 11/7/2013

An easy-featured grey slab. Start: As for MMC, up and immediately veer R, following slab & 4 BR, up to DRLO.

BE & B Cameron 9/8/15

Stick clip FH. A great slab route, pleasant climbing after a hard start.

Start: 5 M Right of MMC in middle of grey slab.

Stick clip FH. Hard start verging right onto jugs.

Start: 6 M Right of MMC.

Clip FH. Traverse through orange section and straight up through to the anchors.

Note: I am yet to put in another bolt so this route doesn't wander on to mysticism use the mysticism bolt for now. Not a big deal.

Stick clip FH. Climb through orange overhang up to jug; punch through crimps and on to an easy finish. If 22 is your limit, probably best you climb Beorn then equip the route or you'll hate placing bolt plates while crimping for your life. Long draw for the third bolt so you can clip off the jug before getting into the hard moves.

Definitely not the best climbing I've done. Was a fairly sketchy FA. Crack is still dirty so gear is limited. Fairly awkward climbing but worth a go.

Sustained bouldery climbing leading up into the scoops, and a tricky head wall to finish. Just don't forget to check the nest is actually empty. If anyone knows the actual route name please amend.

Start: About 4m right of 'Kookaburra Crack'

Through the rooflet then left around the arete to shared lower offs with unknown. Looks harder than 21.

Start: About 6m left of 'Super Shine'

Excellent. A nice climb up grey and stunning orange rock. Start: At Angophora tree, up fused/thin corner to wall, RB. Up wall [4 RB’s] and orange steep slab to DFHLO below jutting roof.

Excellent. A nice variant climb to SS up grey & orange rock. Start: Up as for Weasel Words, L at second FH, up wall FH, L to RB on SS, up wall/orange steep slab, RB to DFHLO below jutting roof.

Excellent. Climbs the twisted hanging arête on great rock. Steep start FH, move R to FH, following arête & featured steep slab to DRBLO below jutting roof.

Start: 2m R of SS.

Good climbing on great rock. Start: As for WW. R at 2nd FH, transverse R to FH, up to FH at flake, up to bulge FH, up slightly L to join WW and FH’s to DRBLO as for WW.

Few routes have been done here and most of them are a bit more serious than the ones on the upper level. Routes are listed left to right facing the cliff.

This route has most likely been climbed in the past due to its quality. Continue 400m from narkocam. Look for a handline, go up 10m of cliff to ledge. Obvious corner crack.

A good corner system with excellent climbing up a steep crack.

From the bottom of the access abseil, walk left facing the cliff for approx. 200m until you reach the obvious fused, clean corner with a hanging corner above.

1. 18m (18) Up fused corner with pockets then into crack and over bulges to belay ledge. Bolt, piton and cam belay.

2. 32m (19) Up a few metres then left over small roof and into steep finger/knuckle corner crack. Follow this system up to a stance. From here avoid the top vegetated corner by climbing the nose and wall to the right of the corner which is easy climbing on good rock. Climb up to tree belay and then do a roped scramble back to main area track.

From base of abseil walk left facing in 50m from start of boiler plate slab. Route starts of a ledge few metres up of ground. Pitch 1 25m- steep start leads to great moderate climbing with great pro. Pitch 2- 20m , take care on this pitch. Continue up crack step left and round arete, up to tree. Rap of.

A great finger crack followed by an awesome 35m slab.

Climb the crack and line of bolts that follows the same line as the access abseil. Take 8 bolt plates.

1. 20m (14) Hard start to gain easier finger crack up slab/wall. Belay off angophora tree.

2. 35m (15) Gain slab just off big ledge. Follow BR's and small cams to a short head wall. Continue following BR's up right to the main rap/belay anchor. A great pitch.

3. 10m Roped scramble back up to main ledge.

A good climb with a rad first pitch followed by some gripping and adventurous but less inspiring easy climbing.

Facing the cliff, walk around to the right from the abseil point until you get to an awesome finger crack up an orange corner with an undercut start.

1. 25m (19) Up finger crack with small gear to juggy slab. Climb the slab up past the first big ledge to cam and sapling belay.

2. 25m (15) Follow slab up past committing undercut move, deviating slightly left on to the orange wall before traversing right to belay in the gully.

3. 30m (15) Head left and continue up mostly easy slab, passing one hard move and into some slightly rotten rock to top out. One large cam and two slings.