Nodes in Reservoir Dogs

This rap-in halfway ledge is situated between the Sunbath and Sporting Complex areas of 'Medlow Bath', with the Hydro Majestic dominating the skyline above. The cliff face is mostly dead vertical and contains six two-pitch bolted routes and one two-pitch trad outing, all just under 40m long. The large ledge, the area above and the climbs themselves feature spectacular views out over the Megalong Valley.

This area is located on private property owned by the Hydro Majestic Hotel. Access could be removed at any time. Please respect the land.

Useful Info: At the bottom of the steps look a few metres to the right to find a pair of ringbolts at the top of a small gully. Rap down the short 45 degree sloped gully then the cliff itself. A 50m rope is easily long enough. It is best to bring a rope for this purpose and leave it in place.

The route you rap down is 'Bohemiath'. If you wish to climb this route and not have the rap rope in the way you could rap from the top anchor of 'Stuck in the Middle with You', a few metres north - two rings a metre back from the cliff edge, set in a cavelet underneath a boulder.

A 70m rope is barely sufficient for rapping or lowering off the <40m routes, with some rope stretch required to get a toe on the deck. Tie knots in the ends.

The crag is in the sun from 1:00pm in summer and 11.00am in late winter.

Fully bolted low grade climb on stainless glue-in hex bolts.

Start: Starts 5m left (facing in) of KBSS. Look for the stainless carrot about a metre above eye height.

1. Straight up, or (easier) up one move, left then up past 6BR to mantle onto large belay ledge. 2FH belay on wall.

2. Up trending right on some fragile ironstone, moving right around blunt arete about two thirds way up. 7BR to 2FH belay on top just right of a home made rusted fixed hanger from the past.

Seventies style trad. First ascent was even chalkless! (The leader forgot his chalk bag). One set of cams from yellow Alien to #4 Camalot and a set of wires will protect it. Substitute hexes for cams if you sport a toothbrush moustache and pony tail.

Start: Marked "KB".

1. Enjoyable. Good quality but slightly dirty rock and thought provoking moves. Follow right trending seam over three bulges. Top bulge was passed by moving left and up on FA, but remember to protect your second! Above top bulge traverse easily right all the way to belay at tree.

2. Slippery lichenous corner. Easy but poorly protected. Not worth the effort unless you are heading for the top anyway. Belay at large tree.

Vertical face climbing with a bit of a layback section.

Start: Starts where ledge steps down, 7m left (facing in) of rap-in.

1. Cruisy pitch at the grade. Up left side of overlap then left trending layback flake to face moves and mantle on large horizontal break. 7RB to 2RB belay/lower-off.

2. Pretty ordinary but interesting moves. Worth doing if you are topping out anyway. 5RB. 'Grunt' off belay then up past awkward move on left side of overhang. Up boulder with fantastic ironstone plates to 2RB belay.

Sustained crimpy first pitch, delicate second pitch.

Start: Starts at a small pointy boulder 3m left (facing in) of the rap-in.

1. A long series of crimpy moves on a very slightly overhanging face should induce a bit of a pump! There is no decent rest until near the top. 7RB to a 2RB belay/lower-off at the big horizontal. (This pitch may end up being upped a grade. See what you think).

2. Thought provoking climbing with a lot of small fragile ironstone flakes higher up and an exposed top out. 8RB to a 2RB belay in cavelet on top.

Starts at seam 3m left of Bohemiath and rap gully descent.

1. Technical climbing up to overlap, over this then straight up black face to ledge. 7 RB to twin FH and mallion anchor/lower-off at ledge.

2. Jugs lead to orange left-facing corner. Around right of corner and up big ironstone edges to steep top out. 6RB and DRBB.

Enjoyable face climbing.

Start: Starts off a rectangular block and climbs the rap-route.

1. Straight up with hardish mantle move above second bolt then a pull through a small overlap. 7FH to ringbolt belay at the big horizontal.

2. Awkward start out of the break - best to start on left (facing in) of belayer - up a bit then move right of the bolt line to use the layback flake and ironstone jugs. 7FH to double ring belay at base of small rap-in gully. Best to bring up the second then belay each other on the scramble up to the rap-in anchors a few metres further up.

A slightly left-leading line that tackles the central overhang at the top of the wall on its left side. All rings.

Starts at scoop 6m right (facing in) of Bohemiath (rap).

1. A couple of sustained sections at the grade (crux pitch). Double ring SHB/lower off at the top of the pitch.

2. Different style than P1 and not quite as difficult. Airy finish to belay on top.

Cruisy first pitch, tough second.

Starts 6m left (facing in) of MO.

1. Pleasant climbing on good rock. 9FH to 2-shackle belay/lower-off.

2. Tough off ledge then long series of thin moves on slightly overhung face. Trend right at top to finish on ledge. Scramble off to right. 6FH, 1RB to 2RB belay.

1. Stick clip first ring to get through the steep sandy start to the jugs. Tricky move past 2nd ring leads to beautiful steep climbing on good holds. 11 draws

2. Steep start to an awkward move with two pockets which leads to good moves on a seam. An exciting sequence brings you to jugs through a beautiful orange roof. Take extenders to reduce rope drag. 9 draws. This pitch can also be finished by traversing left under final bulge and up to Wake Up anchor.

Excellent position and exposure. Good moves on beautiful orange rock with the steep crux move on the second pitch performed 80m above the valley floor.

Start: Starts off the boulder at the south end of the ledge.

1. Start will require a jump for the vertically challenged or short of reach (like the first ascensionist). Afterwards move left then up, back right and up on left side of rounded arete. Third ring is set back and can't be seen from below. 9RB to 2RB belay/lower-off at big break.

2. Big exposure but nothing too desperate. Another tough start if you're not tall - begin a metre right of the belay, then up and traverse left. Head up to the hanging buttress and go straight up the steepness, marvelling at the massive pile of bird poo. Pull on to headwall then up and left on deceptively tenuous holds. 2RB + 6FH to 2RB belay on small ledge just below main platform.