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Routes in Butterfly Gorge

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Showing all 12 routes.

Grade Route Gear style Popularity
Token pole
19 Another Free Route

m the platform just at water level clim the from face of this pillar through technical, dicky and barely protected move at 1/3 height. Steadily up to the rooflet and through the left side near small tree. Traverse slightly right and finish up.

FA: David Shepherd 2000ish

Trad 25m
Middle Left
17 Sea of Choss

Sounds like a sea of whingeing to me, it is the crack with some chockstones in it. Looks like fine rock, if a little unprotected at the start.

Trad 25m
15 1

Up all flakes and top out

Trad
14 2

The crack to the right of the flakes

Trad
16 Breathless Spider

The obvious off width crack on the Left side of the top pool (before the 2 small ones leading to Cro Magnon). You will need to pack raft gear to access small belay ledge above water line. Climbing is fun and secure, #5 cam recommended to get through the roof.

FFA: Jake Webb, Jarrad Aurisch & adam, 9 Oct 2021

Trad 30m
Middle Right
19 Hoya

Look for featured face on the right side of the gorge, to the left of a major gully. Climb the right side of this face following a vague crack line. Rap off fig tree. Gear: Heaps of small wires and cams up to 0.4".

FFA: Jason McCarthy, 31 Oct 2015

Trad 15m
14 Ithaca

Lovely and long route (for the top end) following the obvious crack system on this buttress. This climb offers very varied climbing and is a great adventure route. At the time of writing it still has only seen a single ascent. An easy walk off to the right and down the gully completes a very satisfying outing.

FA: Stuart Anderson, Paul Bennett & Paula Medway, 2005

Trad 30m
13 Cyclops

Another nice climb that broaches the slightly bulging buttress to the right of the gully. Looks thinnish for a 13 Mr Hart!

FA: Chris Hart & Kelly Hansen 2004

Trad 20m
Back Area
13 Papyrus Tigrum

Obvious left facing right angle cornerabout 15m right of Cro Magnon. Chimney the first section then step out and stem as the crack narrows. One of the cleanest and nicest chimneys around.

FA: Adrian Hoel & Kath Clarke

Trad 25m
14 Cro Magnon

Obvious pillar past second pool - Stella Belay Platform for a classic NT Picture. Recommend rapping off top using ~2meter sling around large rock.

FA: Stuart Anderson & Adrian Hoel, 2004

Trad 28m
20 False Summits

Follow the obvious crack on the west side of pinnacle. Right of cro magnon. Shady until midday. Crux is thin moves onto the false platform near top. Double rack of cams recommended.

FA: Jake Webb, dara & adam, 16 Aug 2020

Trad 30m
16 Where is my epidermis?

This is the bail line for False Summits, rather then heading through overhang/crack you can bail to R up inbetween pillar and main wall.

FA: Jo, 16 Aug 2020

Trad 30m

Showing all 12 routes.

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