Routes as trad in Flinders Island

Spectacular corner and crack climbing on the North East side of the Pinnacle with a wild finish! Up short corner to a big ledge, then up dark streaked thin corner on the right. Jam the steep flake left (#3 Camalot), then ignore the ledge and step left into the thin flake and arete to the summit! The rusty chain anchor could do with replacement.

Quality low grade multipitch, great views of the surrounding area and very comfortable belay ledges. First pitch starts on the left side of the slab, traverses right to the corner and up via a small bush (crux). Descent via thread rappels or walk down Skye Descent Gully

The second pitch; up the cracked hanging buttress, features some of the most beautiful, slick, sculpted granite you'll ever see. Add five grades if you're short. Pitch lengths are a rough estimate.

1. 25m (17) Up the front of the buttress to a ledge with a bollard.

2. 30m (21) Up the steep seam to an elegant crux to gain the headwall crack. At a ledge at about 20m trend right to a bollard belay. Rap to the ground with doubles or back to the last belay.

Has a threaded chain at 17m

1. 35m (18) Start at buttress left side of Bonny Doon Chimney. Reachy moves up thin cracks lead to easier climbing. Belay in the chimney near the right wall at abseil bollard.

2. 20 m (18) Step down from belay and then rightward rising traverse across face to DUBB (Firetail anchor). If under 167cm the start of the traverse may prove difficult.

3. 20 m (19) Steep crack and short chimney just left of anchor to belay on large vegetated ledge. Pitch

4. Finish up corner at back of ledge or, for the 3 star experience, finish up the direct variant to DBB. Overhanging bolted abseil 35 m and 37 m to ground.

3x Carrots

Twin fist cracks through the overhanging corner

Start as for Taipan at foot of buttress on left side of major Bonny Doon chimney. At 6m trend right up corner on side of buttress stepping left to ledge level with abseil bollard at 30m. Pitch 2 35 m ( crux) continue up well featured chimney exiting left at top then follow groove until able to step right to abseil bollard. Original route has 2 further pitches described.

Right trending splitter on the landward side of the boulder. single carrot bolt belay

2x Carrots, follows quartz dyke 2m left of Gravel Road and traverses right to a second dyke.

1. 17m (14) Crack and groove just right of large block on ground about 3m down from Circumcision chimney. Up to ledge with large bollard.

2. 20m (16) Step left from ledge into bottomless chimney and up this until overhanging flake on left wall to exit left. Follow chicken head jugs up to belay at small stance

3. 10m (15) Continue up crack to summit then over to abseil chains over NE recess. 35m to ground.

The Right facing corners on the left side of Skye Descent gully. Start up easy corners end up on furthest left one. Bit of a committing slab finish.

Tape a .75 cam onto the end of a stick and stuff it into the crack at the easiest point to reach. pull up the rope until the crack is gained. Traverse left to a bushy ledge and belay from here. walk to the top celebrate and then simil-rap off the bush.

Uphill on the northern face of the pinnacle is a featured seam with some shrubbery. Follow this to scoop at the top. DBB on the other side of the pinnacle. Tie ground anchor and rap off the backside of the pinnacle.

easier angled crack on the seaward side of the boulder. single carrot bolt belay. either simil-rap of tie end of the rope to a ground anchor and rap off the other side

Start in middle of the face and climb up overlaps to corner crack. Up onto slab with small nuts and boldly step right over slab finishing through scoop to DBB.

Firetail

he obvious prow with a crack running up it on the far right of Sedgies buttress. The start (crux) is protected by a single bolt and bomber gear follows. Bolted anchor at the top.

10 M left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.

A link up. Start up Do Not Fear in the flaky orange depression at fallen tree, 3 m Right of rain shadow. Up depression to roof at 6 m then traverse left to exit towards the fixed belay at the top of the first pitch of Rainshadow. Continue rightward into huecoed alcove then exit right through roof above to find anchors of Park and Soak. The second roof isn’t harder than the first.

The diagonal overhanging prominent line on the right of the double gully.

1. 16 15m up crack to belay on ledge.

2. 22 25m continue up steep line. A #4 helpful for exit. A cable around a bollard exists. 35m to ground. Easy to do as one long pitch.

Right trending diagonal crack in the middle of the main face. Begin behind a small pinnacle at the base of the main cliff. P1, (17) stellar crack climbing on good rock with awesome gear to belay on a large ledge. P2 in the left corner of the ledge, climb horizontal seams and face flakes to the slab. follow slab to the top of the cliff

Start as for F.A.P and head straight up the crack above the start

Says as for F.A.P and climb Well Hung for 15m and then move left into the thin cracks and follow it up.

Takes the right arete and face of the skull before traversing left and turning onto the slab for a runout finish. Descent via rap off sheaoak in a gully.

Start at the lower tier and climb through positive flakes and top out up the slab

Start up lochness then head right to anchors.

The pitches described differ from the original as the leaning tree has now fallen over and prevent a clean approach to the ledge at 15m after which the main line starts. On the back wall of the pinnacle recess.

1. 15m (15) Climb the greasy chimney then traverse left to the ledge below the splitter hand crack.

2. 40m (18) The hand crack to an overhang 20 m up. The original route belayed at a stance to the right, but continue up left of the overhang into corner above. Large bollard to left level with vegetation

Originally described as grovelling up into the gully, the route climbs best starting at the wall to the left of the Circumcision chimney just above a large sheoak

1. 12 15m right up ramp to belay at ledge with sheoak close to chockstone in chimney ( common start with Inheritance).

2. 17 20 m Chimney up back of pinnacle, then mostly climbing on the pinnacle side, though stemming to the opposite wall is welcome at the undercling flake. Step across onto the main wall at a large pod with DBB

3. 17 35m continue up hand crack above belay on main wall. Trend left then slightly back right to gain easy slab that leads 10 m to DBB Descent: abseil to top of pinnacle chains (30 m) the abseil to ground ( 35 m).

After first belay instead of climbing the big corner, take the left smaller and smoother corner up to finish at the same rap anchor. Makes the whole climb more consistent and sustained. Can be done as one big pitch with good rope management. An 80m rope will also get you back to the top of the pillar.

1x Carrot

Climb slightly overhanging featured gravel seam on southeastern arrete of the pinnacle to DBB of JUGS

1. 15m 20 The slick curving flake to a roof at 7m, starting 2m right of circumcision chimney. Then up groove. Belay at base of fluting. There used to be fixed wires at this point, but they were absent in March 2022.

2. 10 m 19 up fluting to small belay stance

3. 30 m 16 continue up crack system. Descent: move left to abseil as for Golden Ticket

Quality climbing on good rock to DBB

Daunting steep and wide corner and undercling roof. Wires and Cams with doubles to #3, single #4 and #5, optional #6

Steep right trending cracks starting right of tendonitis below large sheoak. Belay on large bollard as for Christmas Carol ( 2m tat needed to abseil off).

As for NTFG but at the small roof where that route traverses left, go right to arete and finish up Bowerbird for its last 6 metres. Fewer cruxes but still good. Double ropes essential.

Offwidth splitter to cave, then short man-eating diagonal squeeze left. The offwidth can be protected (and climbed!) reasonably using thin secondary cracks, but the squeeze will be a little spicy for leaders too big to fit inside. Wires and Cams from .2 to #4. Optional 5 and 6

Start in the same gully as High Road, but take the flake on the left wall. Continuous pleasant climbing up the cracked arete system between the gullies of HR and LR, trending slightly left. An easy final 8m finishes at Casuarina tree next to a roof. Abseil down the gully of the second Pitch of Wet Rd/ Low Rd to the DBB on the slab, above Bird Noises, then abseil again.

An entertaining scramble up the south ridge with a few slab moves and patches of giant rusty carrots from some ancient via ferrata.

Descent: Down climb the route? Abseil off the cairn? Call a chopper?

A quest for the perfect splitter hand crack on the hill became a grovel fest up a chimney to a thread belay, to discover that the 2nd pitch splitter crack was just a moss-covered root growing on the cliff.

This isolated highball is worth a visit. Either a V5 or 25 if you place gear to protect ankles. A pleasant 20min walk from the campsite, either rock hopping west or take the dirt road opposite the low camp entrance. This road leads to the coast with the wall immediately to its left looking over the channel to the Sisters islands.

1. 30m 17 The hand crack 3 m right of Deb Ball. Steep crack past bush to the base of a narrow chimney. Up this stepping right to belay. Horn abseil possible here.

Open roof offwidth project right of Suspension Trauma cave

Start up Grunter to line below roof then traverse left to join the steep crack of Offhand Comment for its last 15m to DBB.

The smooth and varying slightly steep offwidth on the front face of the pinnacle

Stick clip high first bolt. A few thugy moves brings you to a sloppey ledge. Mantel then head left & up on good gear.

3/4/94

The hand crack that starts just to right of the low roof, 2m right of SS. This leads into large alcove, bridge up this to exit left up crack. Route then leads towards SS chimney, or climb flutings on the face to belay at 30m.

The direct start to Rain Shadow via twin thin cracks that joins that route at roof to finish at first belay.

1. 20m 12 Start at chimney (initialled) exiting right at roof onto slab then trend left to belay at threader.

2. 20m 12 directly up from belay then diagonally right across hanging slab and up to comfortable ledge to belay

3. 20m 16 steep line above to bollard. 60 m to ground from here. Alternatively continue to cave to belay, then continue up line for a further pitch and walk off

The Groove to steep exit 1m left of E and 1m R of Tendonitis. The move through bulge is quite hard. Abseil from Bollard or continue to horn at 30 m

From the circumcision chimney surmount the first chockstone then step right into vegetated crack. Continue up and right to belay as for Raindance.

Start up "Magical Faraway Tree" then at the 5th bolt branch right with good gear. To a bolt up higher. Either down climb to the bolted belay or quest on up.

This route has also been described as existing on campsite pinnacle, but this is likely to be a transcription error in reference to “ DD” being mistaken for Dildo Direct instead of Double Diabolical. The description and length indicate the route exists between Double Diabolical and Sea Shanty. 1. 30 m 20 Starts up intermittent thin cracks staying right of the DD alcove to roof. Turn this on the left then step back right up flakes into chimney. Bollard at 22m or continue to the common belay point at 30 m next to abseil horn.

Offwidth crack

From the toe of central gully right wall start on rock rib then briefly as for Low Road but from narrowing move left onto cracked arete that leads to sloping ledge. Excellent gear and great aspect. DBB just below bush line on ledge. Named after the amount of blue coloured rubbish we have removed this trip.

The route starts at a common start 2m above ground, so borrow the ladder from across the gully or artfully arrange logs to get to 0.5 cam and bomber wire. We started bridged, be.ow small roof. A couple of hard bouldery starts from the ground are possible and have been worked on top rope but add several grades and are tricky to protect. No bolts please. Bird noises follows the left diagonal line to a ledge at 2/3 height and steps left and up twin corner cracks and flakes on face to belay on top of sloping ledge. DBB located just beneath bushes below.

The past horizontal roof crack through outrageous terrain. Turns the lip and continues up the headwall.

The line just right of DD with a tricky but well protected exit from the steep crack. From. There trend right across Tendonitis to join Captain Pugwash and finish up that route to Belay on bollard as for Christmas Carol.

Start up second pitch of Taipan but head out right at the crux and up to boulder problem (levitation required) continue up easy wall and into geranium.