Routes as trad in Flinders Island

Uphill on the northern face of the pinnacle is a featured seam with some shrubbery. Follow this to scoop at the top. DBB on the other side of the pinnacle. Tie ground anchor and rap off the backside of the pinnacle.

2x Carrots, follows quartz dyke 2m left of Gravel Road and traverses right to a second dyke.

3x Carrots

1x Carrot

3/4/94

Spectacular corner and crack climbing on the North East side of the Pinnacle with a wild finish! Up short corner to a big ledge, then up dark streaked thin corner on the right. Jam the steep flake left (#3 Camalot), then ignore the ledge and step left into the thin flake and arete to the summit! The rusty chain anchor could do with replacement.

The second pitch; up the cracked hanging buttress, features some of the most beautiful, slick, sculpted granite you'll ever see. Add five grades if you're short. Pitch lengths are a rough estimate.

1. 25m (17) Up the front of the buttress to a ledge with a bollard.

2. 30m (21) Up the steep seam to an elegant crux to gain the headwall crack. At a ledge at about 20m trend right to a bollard belay. Rap to the ground with doubles or back to the last belay.

1. 35m (18) Start at buttress left side of Bonny Doon Chimney. Reachy moves up thin cracks lead to easier climbing. Belay in the chimney near the right wall at abseil bollard.

2. 20 m (18) Step down from belay and then rightward rising traverse across face to DUBB (Firetail anchor). If under 167cm the start of the traverse may prove difficult.

3. 20 m (19) Steep crack and short chimney just left of anchor to belay on large vegetated ledge. Pitch

4. Finish up corner at back of ledge or, for the 3 star experience, finish up the direct variant to DBB. Overhanging bolted abseil 35 m and 37 m to ground.

A link up. Start up Do Not Fear in the flaky orange depression at fallen tree, 3 m Right of rain shadow. Up depression to roof at 6 m then traverse left to exit towards the fixed belay at the top of the first pitch of Rainshadow. Continue rightward into huecoed alcove then exit right through roof above to find anchors of Park and Soak. The second roof isn’t harder than the first.

Start at the lower tier and climb through positive flakes and top out up the slab

Twin fist cracks through the overhanging corner

Has a threaded chain at 17m

1. 17m (14) Crack and groove just right of large block on ground about 3m down from Circumcision chimney. Up to ledge with large bollard.

2. 20m (16) Step left from ledge into bottomless chimney and up this until overhanging flake on left wall to exit left. Follow chicken head jugs up to belay at small stance

3. 10m (15) Continue up crack to summit then over to abseil chains over NE recess. 35m to ground.

10 M left of BOOB is a broken slanting wide crack that leads to a short overhang. Turn this with difficulty to a vague rest on R and then climb the crystally seam that takes stonker gear. Step left at the top and grab the jug rail at the top of the cliff (crux). The big cracks take plenty of gear up to 4 and 5 camalots but surprisingly require no OW technique. The higher seam takes small cams and medium to small wires. DBB.

The Right facing corners on the left side of Skye Descent gully. Start up easy corners end up on furthest left one. Bit of a committing slab finish.

he obvious prow with a crack running up it on the far right of Sedgies buttress. The start (crux) is protected by a single bolt and bomber gear follows. Bolted anchor at the top.

Daunting steep and wide corner and undercling roof. Wires and Cams with doubles to #3, single #4 and #5, optional #6

Offwidth splitter to cave, then short man-eating diagonal squeeze left. The offwidth can be protected (and climbed!) reasonably using thin secondary cracks, but the squeeze will be a little spicy for leaders too big to fit inside. Wires and Cams from .2 to #4. Optional 5 and 6

An entertaining scramble up the south ridge with a few slab moves and patches of giant rusty carrots from some ancient via ferrata.

Descent: Down climb the route? Abseil off the cairn? Call a chopper?

Firetail

Takes the right arete and face of the skull before traversing left and turning onto the slab for a runout finish. Descent via rap off sheaoak in a gully.

Line through the middle of the cave and up through overlap.

The past horizontal roof crack through outrageous terrain. Turns the lip and continues up the headwall.

The diagonal overhanging prominent line on the right of the double gully.

1. 16 15m up crack to belay on ledge.

2. 22 25m continue up steep line. A #4 helpful for exit. A cable around a bollard exists. 35m to ground. Easy to do as one long pitch.

The Groove to steep exit 1m left of E and 1m R of Tendonitis. The move through bulge is quite hard. Abseil from Bollard or continue to horn at 30 m

Offwidth crack

Start as for Taipan at foot of buttress on left side of major Bonny Doon chimney. At 6m trend right up corner on side of buttress stepping left to ledge level with abseil bollard at 30m. Pitch 2 35 m ( crux) continue up well featured chimney exiting left at top then follow groove until able to step right to abseil bollard. Original route has 2 further pitches described.

Originally described as grovelling up into the gully, the route climbs best starting at the wall to the left of the Circumcision chimney just above a large sheoak

1. 12 15m right up ramp to belay at ledge with sheoak close to chockstone in chimney ( common start with Inheritance).

2. 17 20 m Chimney up back of pinnacle, then mostly climbing on the pinnacle side, though stemming to the opposite wall is welcome at the undercling flake. Step across onto the main wall at a large pod with DBB

3. 17 35m continue up hand crack above belay on main wall. Trend left then slightly back right to gain easy slab that leads 10 m to DBB Descent: abseil to top of pinnacle chains (30 m) the abseil to ground ( 35 m).

Start in middle of the face and climb up overlaps to corner crack. Up onto slab with small nuts and boldly step right over slab finishing through scoop to DBB.

Quality low grade multipitch, great views of the surrounding area and very comfortable belay ledges. First pitch starts on the left side of the slab, traverses right to the corner and up via a small bush (crux). Descent via thread rappels or walk down Skye Descent Gully

Climb slightly overhanging featured gravel seam on southeastern arrete of the pinnacle to DBB of JUGS

Right trending diagonal crack in the middle of the main face. Begin behind a small pinnacle at the base of the main cliff. P1, (17) stellar crack climbing on good rock with awesome gear to belay on a large ledge. P2 in the left corner of the ledge, climb horizontal seams and face flakes to the slab. follow slab to the top of the cliff