Nodes in Central Boulders

Boulders close the BBQ area stretching east along the right and north of the old dual track. Except for a couple boulders along the river, most are accessed by walking east past the last isolated picnic table and then following the track uphill for Pseudo and Little Ayes rock, or veering of left for Warmup, Mozzie, Triangle, Busdriver ...

If you cross the bridge then head left along the track, past the National Parks display and after about 50m drop down to the river there are two large rounded rocks almost in the creek. There is one quite decent problem on the northern most rock and another 5-10 boring ones not written up.

SDS with odd moves through small roof and top out (North rock)

1 move weird pinch then mantle (South rock)

Walk through the picnic area to the creek. Before the bridge is a metal walkway, just to the right is Vulcanology. Beyond this is another few boulders on the right before the creek.

Start on the very far right, along the great rail then up

Stand start, delicate laybacking up the obvious feature to mantle top-out.

Stack a pad and sit start on the lowest point of the big rail, continue as per Vulcanology

Up crimps and leaning arete left of Vulcanology, over pond after rain.

Another 10m towards the creek on your right is a short boulder.

A tiny steep face 5m from the bridge over the creek.

Left variant of Slappy slap

SDS low right hand, slap up right and mantle

About 15m downstream from Slap and Tickly and further away from the creek

Sit start on the undercling, up and left and mantle on decent crimp

A thin direct line straight up from the undercling

Sit start extension into ether of the right lines

A fun

A variant that goes through the larger features out to the right

Walk through the picnic area and follow faint single track trail that heads uphill and right before the second last table. Maybe 15m up the trail on the left is this boulder.

Sit start on the obvious sidepull with your right heel up by your hand.

Just 15m past the last picnic table is a slightly overhung face over a flat slab.

Thin holds facing the wrong way

Sit start the whole traverse

Start further back along the seam, the further left the harder so it's a bit of a choose your own adventure. You can finish up from the pocket as for Warmup or there are several variant direct finishes

Start in the good pocket, one slap and then mantle

Eliminate the massive jug and just mantle

Easy hold, dyno to right jug

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Sit start on obvious jug on west side of boulder. Head up then right to right facing rail and up to crimp slope top-out.

Sloper start, then slap up and right

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Up left arete.

Crimps up the face.

Up the right arete.

Start with feet on ledge near ground in centre of Boulder and left hand on crimpy pinch where it looks like a flake has broken off. Traverse across to arete then climb arete to the top.

Just around the corner on the great rail, right and up

Sit start and up on crimps

Nice horizontal ledge for hands, no feet, up to mantle. Possibly some exponentially harder start lower down.

Up layback / jam to jug

Ascend the arete on nice open handed slopers to the left, then mantel.

A slightly over hanging wall with super crimpy holds, many of which are pre-emptively glued on. Directly above the triangle boulder.

Up left on thin glued holds

Up right on thin glued holds

Past the Triangle boulder about 30m on your right when heading down river.

Start on good edge, up to open handed sloper, then up to tiny crimp, then sloper, high step and done.

Start on the same juggy hold as for Bus Driver. Low traverse of smooth slopers and ledges to the right. When you hit the end jug or sloper (further right), head up through a micro-crimp/crystally top out.

Start on slopers then top out right and mantle

Easy crimp wall beside bus driver boulder

A thin slab on the wall just uphill a couple meters from the bus driver boulder.

Typical shitty bruce slab with a bum start, up the back of the bus driver boulder.

As you walk along the track heading east, pseudo is the long cluster of rock on the right, after Little Ayes rock

Sit start on good edges, long reach to lip, then mantel.

Easier variation is to use large detached block for the feet at start.

As for Pseudo proper, but go left and do a mantle on slopers.

Follow flake up to thin slab mantle.

A harder sit start to 'Pseudoephedrine', semi dyno off a marginal pinch to sloper then link up.

Standing start on tiny crimps and head up to small left facing corner, then top.

Stand start. Hard mantle around a bulge.

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then head left and up into corner. Use pocket in corner then up.

Sit start on bottom right of obvious flake. Up flake then up avoiding the corner and use the slight arete to the right of corner.

Variety of thin crimps

Variety of thin crimps

Start in crimps, use pocket like feature and crimps to mantel.

Sit start on feature, then up rail to huge edge to mantel on crimp.

Sit start up blunt arete.

The steep arete from a sit. Follow the line of good crimps and sidepulls to a big move to the lip. The foot block to the left is out.

As you walk along the track you'll pass a NPWS warning sign, after this on the right is the Pseudoephedrine wall, and if you walk left / north onto the raised flat slab you'll be at the top out of the 40 degree wall.

On the left end of the wall, climb the arete.

In the centre of the face are some large high holds, start on these.

As the name implies, jump to the second holds and continue to the top.

From the Triangle Boulder keep walking, past Bus Driver. It is directly under the 40 degree wall.

Start on both teeth then slap and mantle

Left of the arete climb the face with the welded seam.

Slopey arete

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Thin start then right up rail

Blunt arete, with a fairly high wide pinche to start.

High start holds, up side rail then right and committing but easy rockover and finish up slab. Awesome. Can be top ropes from a single bolt.

On the main ridge above (to the south) the picnic area, this large boulder is about 20 metres long and is split almost in the middle by a body width crack.

Mantle on good line above hollow.

Small friction dish and thin crimps / smearing.

Sit down start. Climb the corner.

Sit start on good two hand edge with a high foot. Dyno up and left to good edge, then up into groove to top.

Jump to the jugs, then left up arete, dodgy fall.

Gara gorge is part of Oxley Wild Rivers National Park and access is open:

http://www.nationalparks.nsw.gov.au/visit-a-park/parks/Oxley-Wild-Rivers-National-Park

Stand start layback then mantle up

Sit down start with foot locks. Lots of offwidth grunting

Start on the far right of feature, follow left and up to top. Variations may exist.

From Teddy bears picnic, veer towards the river and follow a dry creek bed for 100m. The boulder looks like an upside down pear with an imposing overhung wall.

Sit start on left, slap and slopers to thin crux then jug.

Easiest to access from the Triangle boulder then veer towards the creek and downstream about 50m. It faces north and you can almost rock hop over it and miss it.

Fridge slapping goodness up the large column on the left

Up the hand crack between to two boulders

A truly unique problem. Hand crack then into body chimney

Start either in the crack, or a more direct start on pinching the overhung flake, up then traverse along the flake with the obligatory double knee bar invert rest just because you can.

Same start as Safety & Belonging, but then head up the outside to the rail and then dyno to top