Routes as trad in Sweethearts

A refined Cold Chisel album. A pleasant enough climb. Start: A corner in orange rock, 6tn. right of S.C. and right of overhangs.

Up corner, a little loose, through some bulges, and off-width to top.

Start: Start in the base of a chimney near the head of the gully.

Follow the crack up the left wall of the chimney.

Some nice climbing, apart from the dirty start and the dirtier finish. Clean it first and you'll really enjoy this one. Start: The classy looking crack, or the filthy brothel, take your pick.

25m Across, or up, to the grassy Ledge, then move left and up through roof then back right to wide crack and up to the final roof/overlap. Straight up this to top. Bush belay. (Alternatively finish by moving left before the final crack, easier.)

Start: 2m. left of A.T.O.C.

Traverse diagonally left up slab, step left, continue up slab, then right to base of chimney/off-width. Up this and exit right to ledge.

Start: 1m. left of G.F.

Alternate Start. Just looking al this line will give you nightmares for weeks. An off-width! Bob Kiliip was sick for some time after seconding this... and he was an off-width expert!

Up off-width chimney to top.

Start: 12m. Left of N.A.V. The outstanding jagged off-width that splits the wall. If you ever weaken and feel the need to do an off-width, then this is the one to do. Beautiful! (You'll need big gear.)

1. 25m (Crux) Up the crack for 5m, move left to the start of the off-width. Up the off-width sections and belay on the first reasonable ledge.

2. 25m Up the cracks then in behind the fig tree, a tricky exit then easy climbing to top.

Start: The first line on the left-hand end of the wall, a crack. Enjoyable (so we are told) but harder than it looks. You decide.

Up crack under small roof, then up thin crack onto blocks and through small tree.

Start: A squeeze chimney on the right-hand end of the buttress.

1. 20m Up chimney, then off-width to small terrace.

2. 25m (Crux) Directly up wall to small tree, then up off-width to top.

Start: Below the obvious 7m, roof, a layback crack leads up right. Without doubt, the hardest roof in New England, on sharp, clean granite. The whole party yo-yoed the crux pitch during its first ascent. Strenuous and sustained.

1. 20m. Up layback crack, then traverse left and up, then back right and up lo belay on block immediately below roof.

2. 25m. (Crux) Up off-width crack to roof, then follow the crack out and around the roof. Belay just above the lip to avoid rope drag.

3. 10m. Up open corner trending left, to tree on top.

Start: The obvious (?) crack. Richard got a little hot and sweaty while attempting this.

Up the crack through some vines to top.