Showing all 10 routes.
Grade | Route | Gear style | Popularity | Crag | |
---|---|---|---|---|---|
Trad | |||||
13 | Breakfast at Sweethearts
A refined Cold Chisel album. A pleasant enough climb. Start: A corner in orange rock, 6tn. right of S.C. and right of overhangs. Up corner, a little loose, through some bulges, and off-width to top. FA: John Lattanzio & Brian Birchall, 1980 | 13m | Western Gara Gorge | ||
12 | Backwater Blues
Start: Start in the base of a chimney near the head of the gully. Follow the crack up the left wall of the chimney. FA: Mark Colyvan & John Lattanzio, 1980 | 20m | Western Gara Gorge | ||
19 | ★★ A Touch of Class
Some nice climbing, apart from the dirty start and the dirtier finish. Clean it first and you'll really enjoy this one. Start: The classy looking crack, or the filthy brothel, take your pick. 25m Across, or up, to the grassy Ledge, then move left and up through roof then back right to wide crack and up to the final roof/overlap. Straight up this to top. Bush belay. (Alternatively finish by moving left before the final crack, easier.) FFA: Brian Birchall & John Lattanzio, 1980 | 25m | Western Gara Gorge | ||
18 | ★ Good Friday
Start: 2m. left of A.T.O.C. Traverse diagonally left up slab, step left, continue up slab, then right to base of chimney/off-width. Up this and exit right to ledge. FA: A. Legler & Paul Bayne, 1980 FFA: R. Clark & Al Stephens, 1980 | 30m | Western Gara Gorge | ||
20 | ★ Null and Void
Start: 1m. left of G.F. Alternate Start. Just looking al this line will give you nightmares for weeks. An off-width! Bob Kiliip was sick for some time after seconding this... and he was an off-width expert! Up off-width chimney to top. FA: Mark Colyvan & Bob Killip, 1981 | 30m | Western Gara Gorge | ||
19 | ★★ Purgative
Start: 12m. Left of N.A.V. The outstanding jagged off-width that splits the wall. If you ever weaken and feel the need to do an off-width, then this is the one to do. Beautiful! (You'll need big gear.)
FA: Al Stephens & R. Clark, 1980 FFA: R. Clark & M. Colyvan, 1981 | 50m, 2 | Western Gara Gorge | ||
22 | ★★★ The Great Escape
Start: Below the obvious 7m, roof, a layback crack leads up right. Without doubt, the hardest roof in New England, on sharp, clean granite. The whole party yo-yoed the crux pitch during its first ascent. Strenuous and sustained.
FFA: Paul Bayne, John Lattanzio & Mark Colyvan, 1980 FA: Mark Colyvan, John Lattanzio & Paul Bayne, 1980 | 55m, 3 | Western Gara Gorge | ||
18 | The Door
Start: The first line on the left-hand end of the wall, a crack. Enjoyable (so we are told) but harder than it looks. You decide. Up crack under small roof, then up thin crack onto blocks and through small tree. FA: Paul Bayne & E. Sharp, 1980 | 11m | Western Gara Gorge | ||
13 | Tuned
Start: A squeeze chimney on the right-hand end of the buttress.
FA: Paul Bayne & E. Sharp, 1980 | 45m | Western Gara Gorge | ||
12 | Unknown crack
Start: The obvious (?) crack. Richard got a little hot and sweaty while attempting this. Up the crack through some vines to top. FA: Richard Curtis (solo), 1992 | 30m | Western Gara Gorge |
Showing all 10 routes.