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Nailbiter Spike Rock climbing 7 routes in sector

Grade context: AU
Photos: 7
Ascents: 243

16 18 20 22 24 26

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Access issues inherited from Gibraltar and Corin Road

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Some of the crags in the south of this area (e.g. Cantaloupe Hill) were burned in the 2020 Orroral Valley bushfire. Please exercise caution in fire affected areas.

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Routes

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Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back.

FA: Tara Sutherland & Richard Watts, 1991

The slick arete down and left of the Skylark crack. Chain lower off.

FA: Richard Watts, 1991

Classic. Scene of many spectacular whippers. Start on a boulder below and to the left of Consumer Item. Traverse on flakes across the overhanging slab. Up the sustained crack.

FA: Mike Law-Smith, 1986

The slab and arete left of Nailbighter.

FA: Richard Watts & Rob Topfer, 1984

The aesthetic splitter on the uphill side of the spike. Thin hands. There is a rap anchor on top.

FA: Ray Lassman & Ian Thomas, 1975

The steepish slab to the right of Nailbiter. Considered hard for the grade.

FA: Mike Peck, Phil Georgeff & Tony Barton, 1987

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'.

15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers.
10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.

FA: John Finnigan (#1), Damien Jones & Phil Cullen (#2), 1978

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