Routes in Nailbiter Spike for selected grade

Start left of Lord Bailey on a ledge. The route is actually on the uphill side of the Ape boulder. Best to tie the belayer in (cams). Climb the sustained slab out to the airy arete. Drift back right after the last bolt through some lichen. Belay of gear well back.

Start at the horizontal crack which leads around the boulder from 'Nail Biter'.

1. 15 metres - Aid horizontally rightwards around the boulder for 180 degrees to a hanging belay on nuts, arrows and leepers.

2. 10 metres - Free up the overhanging crack.